Thermal Paste Roundup - Performance, Price, Recommendations (Update: Thermal Pads!)

Discussion in 'Sager and Clevo' started by jaybee83, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. Papusan

    Papusan JOKEBOOK's Sucks! Dont waste your $$$ on FILTHY

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    "bubble gum"... To protect against a possible leakage of Liquid metal. You can clearly also see Kapton tape around Cpu die.
     
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  2. Avé César

    Avé César Notebook Geek

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    @Papusan THANKS A LOT.

    I saw this type of tape ''Kapton'', on my older HP pc , but i thought it was on the motherboard to protect it from static electricity, or dust, not temps too...
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2018
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  3. Almighty1

    Almighty1 Newbie

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    I have a question, what is the biggest gap that one can use thermal paste for because on the ASUS G74SX notebook motherboard, there is I believe a northbridge/southbridge as seen in the photo here https://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/A50Z_1_201701121696639968.jpg
    that is held down by two screws that is right above the GPU's memory chips and it appears it's a 0.75mm pink thermal pad but the gap when measured with a feeler guage is 0.50mm, the metal plate does not come in contact with anything else other than the northbridge/southbridge, is this gap too big to replace with thermal paste? Thanks!
     
  4. jaybee83

    jaybee83 Biotech-Doc

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    0.5 mm should be fine for using thermal paste. just be sure to use a thick one like ic diamond and not a thin runny one :)

    Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Almighty1

    Almighty1 Newbie

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    Would I be better off using Arctic 1.0mm thermal pad since I will have sheet of that already. At what gap size would should one actually use thermal pads instead? Thanks!
     
  6. jaybee83

    jaybee83 Biotech-Doc

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    sure u can try the arctic pads first, see how that works :)

    basically any kind of gap that does involve direct touch should be dealt with by using thermal paste. actual gaps thermal pads.

    aside from that, it also depends on the wattage and heat output of the component to be cooled: if its low then pads are fine, if its high then go for thermal paste instead. the above conditions still apply here though!

    Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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  7. Almighty1

    Almighty1 Newbie

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    Makes sense. I always thought it was the other way around and it was anything that was direct touch or almost direct touch that required thermal paste but if there were gaps to use thermal pads because if the gap is after a certain size, wouldn't the bad part be since the thermal paste is exposed to air, it will also dry out? I haven't actually ordered the arctic pads yet as I needed to order a new motherboard because in the past on other computers or notebooks for that matter, the surface surrounding the core or IHS for a CPU/GPU in a desktop had always been the plain circuit board with the electronics on top and I had used either Arctic Silver 2, 3, 5 or Nanotherm PCM+ without any issues but on this specific computer, it had this yellow film which is Kapton tape that was cut so only the core was exposed. I couldn't find my 99% Rubbing Alcohol so I used 70% so I left the Kapton tape on since I didn't know if it was a good idea to remove it and just repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut which thankfully I had 2 unopened 11gram tubes of and I was able to turn the computer on and everything and it completely booted into Windows 10 and I logged in only and everything which worked for about 10 minutes then it BSOD and was saving the dump file which took I think 30 minutes and it was extremely slow, when it got to 10%, there was some weird color blocks on the notebook display which never disappeared. When it finished the dumpfile, I held down the power button for 10 seconds to power off the machine. Then I tried to turn the machine on with battery only and it still had the same weird color blocks on the upper left of the screen and I can still power down with the power button by just tapping it but then I guess because my battery was dying as I usually use it plugged in 99% of the time since 2012 24x7x365, it turned off so I turned it back on and it would still post but lasts probably 30 seconds before it shuts off. So I turned it on after everytime it powered off which had a shorter time each time until it will no longer turn on. But at that point, I used the power brick and all that would happen is no video at all, no post, the caps lock and num lock leds are solid and then the only thing that happens is the Blu-ray burner keeps trying to read over and over again until I manually turn the machine off by holding the power button. So it seems either I corrupted the BIOS, corrupted the CMOS data or most likely fried/shorted the GPU and/or CPU because it appeared that there was still liquid alcohol under the Kapton tape. So this time, I removed the kapton tape and completely cleaned everthing and repasted but the same problem is no video at all, no post, the caps lock and num lock leds are solid and then the only thing that happens is the Blu-ray burner keeps trying to read over and over again until I manually turn the machine off by holding the power button. I already tried taking the CMOS CR2032 battery, battery and power supply out of the equation and it didn't make a difference. Same thing with the CPU taken out.

    As this was almost a month ago being April 25, 2019 - I ordered everything but the motherboard and the arctic thermal pads which included a new CPU (i7 2860QM as a upgrade/replacement for the i7 2670QM which is known to work for this model), a 180watt power supply to replace the 150watt that others have successfully upgraded to, a new battery, a roll of 15mmx100 ft kapton tape to tape down the wires, Sally Hansen Ultimate Shield Base & Top Coat Clear Nail Polish, 20mm x100ft ft roll of black acetate insulation tape to replace the tape that sealed the gap between the heatsink and the 2 blower fans which I had lubricated with Super Slick Stuff, 32 blade feeler guage.

    I have the 3D version of the motherboard so there are few sellers and it seems other than the display connector being the only difference, the 2D versions of the motherboard is $80 while this one was closer to $300 by one seller and another at $449. The $300 seller still had a $9.99 shipping charge and then every week or so, the price would go down so it went to $278 with $9.99 shipping and then $230.85 with free shipping and yesterday at $222.00 with free shipping so I am just asking questions ahead of time after measuring the gaps where there were thermal pads.

    In any case, I will use dkillone who posted a image on NBR instead to illustrate everything for the motherboard with that side facing down and just label things on it:

    [​IMG]

    1) For the CPU and GPU, I will repaste with Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut
    2) For the Northbridge/Southbridge labeled as NB which has a 0.75mm pink thermal pad between that heatsink and top of the core with a 0.50mm gap, it will either be Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut or Arctic 1.0mm thermal pad since that heatsink does not have contact with anything else.
    3) For the Video Ram which is labeled V1-V6, I will replace the original 6 1.0mm pads with Arctic 1.0mm thermal pads as the gap is 0.50mm
    4) For A that has a 0.50mm gap with the silver colored metal piece that is soldered to the heatsink copper pipe, I will use 1 x Arctic 1.0mm thermal pad to replace the original one piece 1.0mm thermal pad
    5) For B that has a 1.00mm gap with the silver colored metal piece that is soldered to the heatsink copper pipe, I will use 1 x Arctic 1.5mm thermal pad to replace the original one piece 2.0mm thermal pad

    So that leaves me with two questions really.

    1) Any ideas what A and B are actually called? Are those Mosfets or are those called VRMs?
    2) The heatsink copper pipe touches the entire part being the middle piece I labeled C which actually has is identical to what is written on top of A but there are no gaps at all between that piece and the heatsink copper pipe that I could measure. I guess my question is would the idea of putting a one piece thermal pad covering all 3 of the pieces that I marked with the red line be able to transfer the heat to the heatsink copper pipe if the heatsink copper pipe only sits on top of the middle piece? If that is doable, that means either I need to get a separate 0.5mm Arctic Thermal pad or just use the 1.0mm Arctic pad that I will be buying.

    Before reading this thread, I was actually considering using K5 Pro but I think someone mentioned earlier in this thread or another thread on NBR that it did damage to something so seems safer going the thermal pad route as there are also no real reviews other than maybe the 2-3 dozen comments on amazon with a few bad ones. I guess Thermal Grease is fine as long as that specific part like the Northbridge/Southbridge, CPU, GPU is held down individually with screws but the other part seems like it can get really messy.

    As this is a Intel Sandybridge based notebook, it appears that there is no longer a separate Northbridge as that's part of the CPU which if I am correct, this would be a Southbridge chipset or PCH instead, would this be a high or low heat output item? I also noticed that while there are 6 VRAM chips on the bottom side, there is also 6 identical VRAM chips at exactly the same spot on the other side of the motherboard except only the chips on the CPU/GPU side has thermal pads due to the silver metal piece connected to the heatsink copper pipe but wouldn't the other 6 VRAM chips need cooling as well?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2019
  8. jaybee83

    jaybee83 Biotech-Doc

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    corrected my above post to remove the "not" :)

    to be clear: direct touch - paste / gap - pads

    A and C are chokes, B are mosfets. mosfets and chokes together form the VRMs for CPU and GPU respectively. especially the mosfets absolutely NEED to be cooled properly with good thermal pads, otherwise ull get throttling or even shutdown.

    your idea for the long thermal pad covering all three chokes is a good one, if the heatpipes only cover one of them. its not ideal but better than not having the other chokes connected at all.

    the PCH is pretty low wattage and has a very high thermal throttling point (around 115-125C) thats why lots of notebooks dont even have any heatsink or thermal pads on it. so a thermal pad connecting it to the heatsink should be more than sufficient :)

    as for the vram chips, youre totally right: ideally, you would have a copper backplate with thermal pads to give the vram more surface area to dissipte their heat. although vram is pretty low wattage, so at stock clocks i wouldnt expect troubles. ull notice it only when trying to overclock the vram....

    Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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  9. Almighty1

    Almighty1 Newbie

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    Thanks jaybee83 for clarifying things. It seems like there are way more chokes that don't have further heat transfer and just bare like the following:
    Left side of the ram has 1 choke, 1 choke on the lower left of V1, 1 choke on the right hand side of A & B, 2 more on the other side of the motherboard but I guess if it worked without problems using the stock configuration, it will probably work fine anyways.

    I was only wondering about the PCH because it seems like the motherboards sold on ebay does not have the heatsink or thermal pad, maybe it's to make it easier for photos but always better to be prepared in case I needed a thermal pad. Just thought 0.5mm would be too thick for thermal grease since it would seem like with a gap that big, the air would dry out the thermal paste so probably will just use a thermal pad.

    As for the vram, the machine doesn't support overclocking so I'm stuck with stock speeds.
     
  10. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    Chokes dont tend to fail as a passive part.
     
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