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Discussion in 'MSI Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Ultra Male, Jun 23, 2017.

  1. Pedro69

    Pedro69 Notebook Evangelist

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    I already "sanded", the only thing that still miss is the 0.5mm artic pads… i only got 1mm from them and is what have in my cpu/gpu...if in the first days the problem is fine, perhaps the viscosity of the thermal paste is the issue i dont know...
     
  2. Pedro69

    Pedro69 Notebook Evangelist

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    @Falkentyne

    * gpu pic have the stock thermal pads but i dont have any issue with gpu temps, they are fine...this pics are from my last repaste..
     
  3. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Prophet

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    What did you use as your sanding block?
    did you use something good? High quality? or cheap?
    You need something that will make it perfectly flat without errors.

    then you need 0.5mm thermal pads (even better if you can stretch them and compress them to 0.2-0.3mm). The VRM's don't need good contact (i've put 4.9 ghz into stretched 0.5mm VRM/choke pads, and no boom).

    Here is an example of a high quality block.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R4Y8BO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7O51HGOUZ91S

    The higher quality the block, the LESS sanding you will need to do to get a good result, because you will have less errors on your strokes :)

    And you can load it with compatible paper like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Of course you aren't in USA so that's on you how you would find something similar.
     
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  4. BlakLanner

    BlakLanner Notebook Guru

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    That certainly looks much easier than what I had to go through lapping IHS via the "slowly drag the IHS over the insanely fine sandpaper on a glass plate" method before delidding became a thing.
     
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  5. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Prophet

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    Read my last reply and thank you for the pictures.
    Do you notice the pattern of the spread?
    The GPU looks nice and even with almost no variance. That's because the GPU heatsink is relatively flat, and there are no thermal pads on the GPU block to mess up anything either.

    But look at the CPU.
    Most of the paste is pushed out (which shouldn't be a problem, but would be if you were using liquid metal), but look at the pattern around the center.
    You see how there is a 'ring' of paste followed by barely any?
    The pattern should just be at the edge of the CPU, not in the middle.

    Do you see that strange pattern?
    that's because the CPU heatsink is not flat. It's convex, like the outside of eyeglasses lens.
    That's why you have that type of pattern.
    And with less heatsink pressure at the top because it has to attach to the VRM and chokes with more thermal pads, the top side of the CPU (facing the VRM) degrades/pumps out/dries out and you get 15C higher temps.

    That's because that heatsink block (CPU copper plate and block) has been used/recycled by MSI ever since GT72s or GT80s.

    *Edit* Pedro
    You need a proper sanding kit.
    Your heatsink should not look like a lion decided to clean its teeth on it.
    Your heatsink looks very very awful. That's saying it nicely.

    Buy a good sanding block like that preppin weapon sanding block I told you to get, then buy the same size sandpaper kit for it. The kit should start with 150 or 200 grit, and go up to 3000 grit.

    Apply the sandpaper to the block. Start with 200 grit. Wet it with isopropyl alcohol or water.
    Then you need to *REMOVE* the C-clips from the heatsink screws. Use a TINY flat head screwdriver for that. Work very slowly to "Pry" the c-clip out of the screw ring. Be careful not to lose the springs and screws. You need to do this to get proper room and pressure and not rip the sandpaper. You won't need the c-clips anymore after. Don't worry they are not important.

    Once done, it's easy.
    Place the block someplace face up where it won't move. Then apply the heatsink copper downwards and have even pressure on it but do NOT press downwards--only press enough to have "even" pressure on top and bottom and left and right. Then do about 20 strokes starting with 200 grit sandpaper. That should be enough. Let the *MOTION* of the back and forth movement do the sanding, NOT your hands pressing down!

    Then switch to 400 grit and do 10-20 more back/forth strokes.

    Then switch to 800 grit and do about 20 more strokes.

    Then switch to 2000 grit and you will do a lot more strokes now. Might be 50 or more. Maybe might need 100. You will do enough strokes with 2000 until the heatsink is "smooth" but will not be shiny. Just not look roughed up and scarred.

    Then finally, you switch to 3000 grit and polish it up until its nice and shiny. Doesn't have to be "Mirror". just shiny.

    Then mount with 0.5mm pads and test the results.

    The reason you start with only 10-20 strokes is, LESS IS MORE. Sanding removes copper, you can never add it back, so always start small. If you find that you didn't do "enough" on the low grit paper, you can always go back and do more later. Yes its annoying because you have to remove the GPU heatsink AND GPU VRM. That's annoying. On the GT73VR and GT75VR, you just unplug battery, pop the case, pop the fans and remove the CPU heatsink and repeat easily.

    I would hate to have to do this on a GT75. Even if I was paid to do it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2018
  6. Pedro69

    Pedro69 Notebook Evangelist

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    Just to mention, last time on cpu i not used dot or X method but i put thermal paste in all the die with Gel maker Nano.

    Yeah, the first thing that i noticed was that strange pattern on it, but what i should do? Sand more or just try find 0.5mm artic pads?

    Not a risk sand many times the heatsink?

    Edit:

    I will try sand a little more, my sand paper is what the workers use on the walls of a house.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2018
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  7. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Prophet

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    Your sanding was very minimal (Very low) because the "L" marks on the corner of your heatsink is still there. So you barely sanded anything.
    On both of my heatsinks, I sanded enough so the 'L" marks on each corner are completely gone. But you shouldn't need to do that much. Just what I said in# of strokes. I actually did more than I should, to be honest.

    Just buy a good sanding block. I don't think you have one, or your heatsink would not look that bad. it looks bad.
    Then buy the "long" sandpaper I mentioned that will fit on the block. They are standard size. I gave you amazon links.
    Then just do what I said. It's really not hard at all. When you have proper tools, it's not hard to do. It's only hard if you don't have proper tools.

    Remember to remove the C-Clips from the screws so you can remove the screws before sanding. You want to do the right job. The correct job.

    I gave my suggestions above for the sanding block (Preppin weapon) and the sandpaper kit (200-3000 grit paper, each grit has 3 sheets in this group).
     
  8. Papusan

    Papusan JOKEBOOK's Sucks! Dont waste your $$$ on FILTHY

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    This is more what I use. Damn cheap. I'ts free:D I go cheapo, bruh?:p
    [​IMG]
     
  9. prodj

    prodj Notebook Consultant

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    @Pedro69 If you don't have the problem when you just applied the thermal paste and it degrades over time because it pumps out - then try IC graphite pad, I'm very curious how it will perform in your case.
    I didn't sand and didn't change vrm pads and it is already better, but maybe my heatsink isn't so bad.
    Here is how it looked like with stock paste, when I opened it: cpu-stockpaste.jpg heatsink-stockpaste.jpg
     
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  10. Pedro69

    Pedro69 Notebook Evangelist

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    [​IMG]

    Anyone can confirm if this pic have the same design as one 8750H?
     
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