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Discussion in 'MSI Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Skylake_, Apr 3, 2018.

  1. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Virtuoso

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    You don't undervolt Pascal GPU's like this.

    You "undervolt" by raising the clock speed (overclocking), or by locking (Control F and then press L) a lower voltage point. But this isn't an undervolt. It freezes the clock at the target voltage point.
    If you had an older Pascal video bios (with a hardware programmer available), e.g. a 4 core laptop equipped with a 1070, you could mod the video bios to unlock the TDP slider, and then lower the slider to a TDP below 100%, which limits the clock speed and thus "undervolts", but this editor doesn't seem to work on video cards on laptops that have 6 core equipped CPU's. So all you can do is bring up the afterburner clock curve graph, lock a lower voltage point and press L and apply. But this also reduces your clock speed. You can't undervolt directly.

    The closest thing to undervolting is *overclocking*, thus making the card run faster at the same clock.
     
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  2. kellemar

    kellemar Newbie

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    Ah got it. Thanks! Was kinda used to adjusting the power limit on my desktop 1070 with Afterburner.

    So overlocking the laptop GPU in this would make it have a higher clock, but still remain at a fixed voltage. Would that be what you're saying?
     
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  3. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Virtuoso

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    Yes that's basically it. If you want to "Undervolt", you HAVE to overclock.
    You lock (press L on the voltage graph) or set a lower voltage point on the graph (or you find the voltage point you want to use, then "flatten" the graph completely, starting at that voltage point and all the way to the right, THEN you overclock (or not).
     
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  4. hackness

    hackness Notebook Deity

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    Yes I tried that before knowing that if SpeedStep is disabled and SpeedShift is enable in BIOS and enter sleep mode in battery mode then plug in on resumed will cause the GPU to get stuck at battery speed. Good that the problem was found!
     
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  5. Wackistan

    Wackistan Notebook Enthusiast

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    I had enough trouble finding Dragon Center that I went another route: Installing the Skylake + version of Silent Option and uninstalling Dragon Center for good. Problem solved, and oh how well this machine behaves now that it's gone.
     
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  6. Support.1@XOTIC PC

    Support.1@XOTIC PC Company Representative

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    Thank you for the update. I am glad you found a fix that works. I will have to keep that one in my back pocket next time i see this issue.
     
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  7. Derek712

    Derek712 Notebook Virtuoso

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    So just a quick update. I finally added my 2tb SSD, and did my re re re paste after all the testing I did with various paste jobs. I still stand by my conclusions in my review - I'm getting the best temps with Conductonaut LM on the CPU and Kryonaut on the GPU.

    It's worth noting that I reverted back to using the stock pads on the components just above the CPU. I did a couple dry runs with both stock and fujipoly and found that the CPU heatsink makes better contact with the stock pads.

    I also did an electrical tape job underneath the battery. A single layer everywhere I could hit, and some foam pads in the gaps to put pressure on the battery and keep it from moving. I hardly hear any creaking now. The is still a single spot on the right, but I can live with it. There's still flex when lifting from the front edge, and the only way to fix that is with some shims, but I don't want to add any more weight.
     
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  8. Mickel781

    Mickel781 Newbie

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    You probably don't have a picture where you did put the tape? Also would it make sense to glue the battery with the hot plastic to the chassis? Just looking for opinions.
     
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  9. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Virtuoso

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    You can try arctic pads instead of the stock pads. They work well too.
    Fujipoly are too hard and inflexible. And when you have a heatsink that only has very low, light static pressure on the CPU, anything that reduces pressure even more, like hard inflexible pads, just makes temps worse and leads to higher core temp differentials.

    Arctic 1mm and 0.5mm pads are a good compromise between wanting more cooling performance and improving the gummy, low quality stock pads. VRM cooling isn't even the limiting factor on any of these laptops (excluding some alienwares), unlike GPU VRM cooling, which is absolutely essential or magic smoke; the MSI 16L13 barebones has NO VRM cooling whatsoever.
     
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  10. JRey

    JRey Notebook Guru

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    Do you have a comparison between LM and Fuji vs LM/Kryonaut and stock pads?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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