*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Discussion in 'MSI Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Spartan, Nov 12, 2018.

  1. Ocmersh

    Ocmersh Notebook Enthusiast

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    I'm pretty sure they won't do XMP but you might be able to take the Advanced BIOS and adjust the timings manually. As for your temperatures I'd recommend re pasting I got a 160 underVolt on the core and 100 on the cache.

    And those plastic pins are a very huge pain you have to have a very thin pry tool to pull of the plastic out and then up so you don't break the pins
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2019
  2. martin778

    martin778 Notebook Consultant

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    Thanks, I will try what mine can do in terms of UV, i just dialed in a safe -100mV as a starting point.
    I think I'd have to go to Svet for an unlocked BIOS :D I've looked at the advanced BIOS but man, that's a plethora of options that are very different from my desktop X299 rig, not touching anything yet:)
     
  3. Ocmersh

    Ocmersh Notebook Enthusiast

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    All you have to do to get to it is while in the BIOS:

    Press: Left Alt + Right Control + Shift

    Then while holding those down, Press F2.

    There is a lot of functionality in there though, do some research and careful what settings you change.
     
  4. Ocmersh

    Ocmersh Notebook Enthusiast

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    Oh thats what you were refering to, advanced BIOS, lol nvm.
     
  5. trias10

    trias10 Notebook Consultant

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    Yeah this is a real problem with this laptop. A few pages ago, I asked if someone could please put up a guide on how to remove the bottom panel, specifically with regards to that black plate in the rear. The only video on YT which shows how to remove the bottom panel specifically omits how to remove the rear black plastic plate, but that rear black plastic plate is where so many people break off the clips.

    If anyone would please be kind enough to put up a comprehensive video on how to remove the bottom panel without omitting any steps, the entire community would massively appreciate it. Sadly loads of people have broken off the plastic clips, even Notebookreview says it's a nightmare to get the bottom panel off. We could really use a community in-depth guide.
     
  6. martin778

    martin778 Notebook Consultant

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    Well, I doubt you can do it without trashing the plastic clips. The clips have ZERO flex or clearance in them. I've tried opening piece by piece, like opening a can but nope - all broken.

    If it wasn't for the build quality (the darned thing creaks a lot when used on your lap, pushing the middle of the bottom cover sounds like an old door creaking) this would've been a perfect laptop. Same story with Clevo.
    The moment I felt the top and bottom were plastic, I ordered a full GE75 sticker kit from aliexpress for the palmrest, touchpad and lid and even bought a screen protector, yet somehow I have a feeling it won't hold up the next 2 years, just like my GX740 did which ended up with 4 bolts holding the screen together after the hinges broke off.

    I was ready to drop 4.3k on a Zbook G6 with Xeon 2286 and RTX4000 if it wasn't for the 60Hz panel...

    @Ocmersh,
    Yeah, I've seen the advanced menu but didn't see any "Enable XMP" settings.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2019
  7. Ocmersh

    Ocmersh Notebook Enthusiast

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    Luckily, if it ever bugs you too much, since there isn't anything important with that cover specifically you can get a new one. They are 46$

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...mclahC9ZEltkyayzpvgaAjrnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I figure after a year or two of opening and closing it, and breaking every last plastic clip, ill get a replacement. The clips on the cover are the problem, what they are slotted into on the chassis is pretty beefy plastic.
     
  8. Ocmersh

    Ocmersh Notebook Enthusiast

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    Advanced BIOS -> Advanced -> System Agent -> Memory Configuration

    Looks like you can modify the speeds there. But there is no auto XMP profile.
     
  9. awsan

    awsan Notebook Consultant

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    Today I wanted to share my Liquid metal rant and its glorification in the laptop "Enthusiast" scene.

    DISCLAIMER (I might sound like I am blaming people in what you will read but please bare with me as English is not my first language and its a little hard for me to convey my point with out sounding out of line, I only blame my self for not taking my time understanding every major point)

    So my story started several months ago when I had to sell my 5 years old desktop because I was leaving India (Which I lived in for 4 years for my studies) to Malaysia then back to Yemen (My home country) got a 1000$ for it and had 1500$ that I have saved up for the past 6 years or so, After reading around I found bob and loved how detailed he went into his reviews and how transparent he was about all the info he shared.

    Then one day I watched the GE75 review and was shocked on how good the new GE series is compared to the old MSI laptops that I hated and in that video I was introduced to HIDevolution and although I was against using liquid metal in laptops I saw that it was much more safe now a days because of all the foam damming and electric tape used to protect the machine.

    On the 18th of may I pulled the trigger and got the GE75-9sf for 2100$ with the liquid metal application (Ended up costing me 2480$ with shipping to Malaysia,taxes and import certificate) after receiving the machine I faced a lot of performance problems (Temps were great, so this is an MSI problem) after a lot of tweaking and painful hours of formatting and getting around the bios I was able to get a decent boost in performance (But I still get the same FPS as my brothers 1660ti in the Y540 with its MUX switch, Yes it took me a lot of time to tweak it for max performance but its just funny how stupid fast it is+ he got it for 1200$)

    In the end of September I noticed that cpu temps are reaching 95 degrees and the GPU around 84-86 degrees most of the time and for the first time I saw the temperature limit appear in Riva tuner but was not really throttling so I just ignored it and linked it to the rising temp in Kuala lumpur and as I was planning to travel on the 15th to Yemen (Which has a much colder weather,8 degrees in the evening ) I was sure it will get lower over there, and as a precaution i got my self two cooler master sickleflow 120mm and a small power plug with 12v 3 amps hacked the fans connectors to the plug and replaced the stock fans on my cooler master U3 for better airflow.

    After arriving to Yemen I started noticing that the temps are getting higher and higher where it registered 86 max temps on the GPU and 100 degrees on the CPU(Not stock, Settings are in the bottom) while gaming and noticed that two cores will be always much hotter than the rest although it was never a problem.

    So I had to open the laptop and check what is going on and to my shock I noticed that my copper heat sink was already reacting with the liquid metal only after a couple of months and the reason two cores are always hotter are due to two things first the dam hid evolution installed was a little higher on one side which made the already stupid triangle mount have worse contact with the CPU and the biggest problem of all that the heat sink is already chipped in some places (Not sure if its damaged or that the liquid metal reaction has been very aggressive on the heat sink).

    Now to the problem that made me write all of this block of letters (Photos attached) I don't know what was the main reason if it was too much liquid metal or that was expected from liquid metal to begin with but its already everywhere around the gpu and cpu and it will short something sooner or later and me as an average joe have 0 ways to deal with it and try to remove all that excess liquid metal with out risking it flying all around the laptop so now I am sitting on a ticking bomb that will die sooner or later due to something that was 100% preventable and I have only my self to blame 2500$ will go down the drain and I will be stuck with my old half dead NP8180 for a couple of years until I am able to cope with the lost money and get another machine.

    Now I reapplied the correct amount of liquid metal hoping that it will saturate the copper heat sink (Which is not really ideal) and it helped a little, got it down to 88-91 on the cpu while gaming but I hope people will understand that even if a professional says its Ok or promises a professional application to not trust them and do your own upgrades or don't do them at all if you are not comfortable doing it your self.

    I wanted to say a lot more but I hope my message got through.

    And yes I broke 2 of those pesky small clips in the bottom cover, I guess its a GE75 feature by now.

    ++ Installing a second NVME SSD with the ram tweaks raises the CPU temp by a minimum of 5 degrees.

    [Settings
    -100mv on cache and core (+0 sst in throttle stop)
    +125 uncore
    3470mhz ram 19-19-19-47 1t
    stock imon slope settings (Tried changing them but temps were going crazy)
    GPU +125 on core and +1250 on memory]
    0d7fec1d-4139-4887-888a-76d182d6fa0c.jpg

    36a8e9c5-798e-4248-98ad-3449db8c4f07.jpg
    886c0767-5b1c-44c7-9bde-2d0add6098b7.jpg
    86660e3a-381f-4331-a6ac-635c8c3b5dde.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2019
  10. martin778

    martin778 Notebook Consultant

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    This laptop will be dead in a matter of weeks / months. LM is already on the GPU capacitors. Get it fixed ASAP - replace the kapton tape and LM. You can get that tape for cheap on Aliexpress.

    Honestly, I this condition I'd probably just polish the heatsinks and the die's, throw standard TIM on both and sell it or use it as it is.
    These photo's are a perfect example that kapton tape does absolutely nothing, if you apply too much LM, it will leak from underside anyways.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2019
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