[TEST] GE72VR - Liquid Metal Grizzly Conductonaut

Discussion in 'MSI' started by Mr.Deft, May 17, 2017.

  1. Mobius 1

    Mobius 1 what is quality control?

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    Looks like the cpu fan is pretty dirty, might try cleaning it up with some compressed air?
     
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  2. Mr.Deft

    Mr.Deft Newbie

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    Wow, I didn't expect get so many warning :O
    Before doing this, I read a lot of stuff, one this forum and other, and even if there is a risk, no doubt about that, I have never read any people being so alarming !
    First time I read something about "splash everywhere".

    I know there is too much.
    But I tried to press the heatsink and remove it to see how the LM spread, and it looked totally fine to me.

    So right now Ill turn off my computer and open it again to see the LM, and Ill try to remove a bit to have a clean thin surface.

    I really dont believe having same results with kryonaut.


    I did ;)
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2017
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  3. Mr.Deft

    Mr.Deft Newbie

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    So you were right :oops:

    [​IMG]

    It spread !
    I cleaned everything, removed the tape, take off some LM, and put clean tape all around to protect.

    [​IMG]

    New OCCT test :

    Before/After
    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Core 0 : -4°
    Core 1 : -6°
    Core 2 : -6°
    Core 3 : -5°

    So now I have 23°C Drop from the original thermal past.

    Whatever... I will not recommand this product. I think we must control the heatsink contact before try LM, and we also must use tape to protect.
    For me I think it's now fine, because I don't move with my laptop.
     
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  4. woodzstack

    woodzstack Company Representative

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    please don;t hate me, but I must insist you still have too much thermal paste. Not by as much as before though. It really shouldn't make a mirror shine, it should be thin and evennly spread out, but just wet enough to make proper contact.

    I think you should check to see how much contact this system makes with the CPU as well, sometimes, the heatsinks do not make enough contact.
     
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  5. woodzstack

    woodzstack Company Representative

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    BTW, your the first I've seen to admit it when they put too much. Mysteriously everyone else goes silent, and I find thier notebook on Kijiji broken or for parts a week later and never see them again on NBR or something.

    SO, thank you for paying attention and not running away, and I'm happy you didn't break the laptop.

    I always tell people exactly what you just said " I would not recommend this project" once they know what is what, risk outweighs the rewards and cost, when you can just get Gelid Extreme or Tuniq's TX-4 or Grizzly Kryonout
     
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  6. Prostar Computer

    Prostar Computer Company Representative

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    Liquid metal shines (no pun intended) more with [extreme overclocking]. But I agree: In most cases, the payoff is hardly worth the risk.
     
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  7. Mr.Deft

    Mr.Deft Newbie

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    Of course I admit. First time I read your warning I was "wtf he is talking about, everything is perfect". But I supposed you know the product better than me so I decided to open and see.
    It's hard to remove. Micro drop can EASILY go everywhere... I was scared.
    I should open it again I guess... But Gelid Extreme or kryonaut will not give me the same insane results...
     
  8. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Deity

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    Liquid metal is dangerous stuff. While the results are impressive, I honestly would NOT suggest anyone who isn't rich mess around with this stuff. Some people can afford to buy a new laptop if things go south. Some can't. You literally need to as much work as if you were using sub-zero cooling on a 6 ghz desktop...
     
  9. woodzstack

    woodzstack Company Representative

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    Have you tried though ? Apply grizzly or Gelid Extreme so thin is almost translucent. Should just be enough to fill in the invisible to the eye air gaps in the surface of the die and copper heatsink's surface. That's how it's meant to be used. Less= more. never do you want it to actually prevent the copper from making direct contact with the die itself, it's only meant to fill in the microscopic gaps or air that hold in place.
    As for the LM, same thing, but it's viscosity is being interfered with by the surface tension of the air and moisture on the surfaces of the die and copper and that is why you have to scratch it in, the molecules are that light and small. Thats why it runs everywhere.

    I know in this day and age of internet information, everyone can so easily dismiss anyone's comments or experience , the net is full of trolls or would be self taughts or considered experts on subjects all over the place, this is why I am happy you took a minute to consider the advice, and in admitting it, you might have helped someone else to do the same thing, step back and do a closer examination of thier project too, and maybe save a motherboard.

    As a reseller, I do not want to have to do RMA's for my customers. No ones ever happy in that situation, so you know what goes around comes around.

    But - in my experience, thermal pastes can be as good as LM, its not nearly as dangerous, but if you can get an ideal surface going, perfectly levelled, make great contact to the point it's as if the copper and die are one solid piece welded together, than its the best.

    Even Liquid metal acts as a INSULATOR compared to direct copper contact.... so less is better still. I've been saying this for decades, hoping to make a difference. Back in the day, they used to ship this gummy white silicon paste , and they would show directions to apply it liberally and stick a heatsink on it.

    Directions from like INTEL or IBM themselves. In testing, inschool, we noticed a quick smudge of peanut butter did better , it was like a big joke. We realised it was the fact the peanut butter we used was craft and mostly just oil that became really thin. One thing led to another, even silicon paste was okay, what we used to do was just squish the paste into the cracks on the fiberious copper blocks they used to use and apply nothing to the CPU ceramic (they used to have ceramic, lol...like 286 or 486DX etc..) just a clean surface after using a cheap 70% alcohol solution to clean it etc.. (BTW, Artic Clean is great and NOT expensive for how many years it will last and it does infact work much better than alcohol - and when whiping surfaces, use a coffee filter made of bamboo, which has no small fibers, and was never bleached -because bleach weakens materials and leaves behind invisible particles. never use kleenex or tissue for that reason)
     
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  10. dragon2016

    dragon2016 Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hello,
    which screwdriver do you use to remove heatsink and fan screws? (the big copper thing)
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2017
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