Razer Blade Pro 17" GTX 1080 GPU/7820K CPU 2017 Owner's Lounge

There are very few options of machines with a 1070 that have optimus or hybrid to switch to iGPU for longer battery....and the problem is, those come with small batteries. For long battery life, with optimus or hybrid you might need to look at 1060 or 1070MQ.

 

I think you can hit 4.5 to 5 fairly comfortably with the screen dimmed and lighting turned off. It literally has the biggest battery available for a laptop, so your not going to find better battery life with this level of performance.

 

I think they also sell a portable charger if I'm not mistaken. But I have no problem getting through a few classes with this guy.

 

I hit 5 hours a few times on an MSI GT73VR with the intel GPU enabled, CPU undervolted, 120hz display turned to 60hz with low brightness and backlit keyboard off.

I've also heard the Acer Predator 17 gets decent battery life for this segment, but I have not tried it personally.

 

Just was going to add my experience so far with the machine. I love it, except the track pad, but I think I'll get used to it being touchy.

Mine was thermal throttling like crazy and hitting 99 on the CPU every time I stressed it. I ended up taking it apart and repasting. It was worth it. Hands down. A little nerve wracking taking a laptop all the way down that far less than a week in, but I didn't really feel like swapping it through Amazon if I didn't have to.

Temps dropped 20c across the board. If you're having overheating problems, do it.

 

Care to share your repasting experience details?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I have though about repasting. How was the procedure? Was it difficult?

 

I'll write something up tomorrow - I took a few pictures along the way. It wasn't too bad, although I did have to take it all the way back down because I missed a single ribbon cable. I will circle the spots on the photos.

 

Here's a couple photos:
https://imgur.com/a/Rez4w

The bottom cover is held on by torx, except the two under the rubber trim at the rear. Everything from here on in is phillips screws. The cover comes off if you slide it gently towards you, as there are a couple of hooks at the rear of the laptop cover.
The spots I circled in red are the things that need to be removed. You do not need to remove the fans to remove the motherboard, so leave them in. Some of the spots that I have circled as screw holes don't actually have screws - I just took this picture in the middle of it without thinking. There is tape over some of the connections, so gently peel that and reuse it after. The hardest cable to get to is the volume click, but with tweezers it's not impossible.
After you get the motherboard out there are two rubber 'bumpers' attached to the heatsink fins on the motherboard side, they simply come off and can be replaced when you are putting it back together.
There are 6 screws holding the heatsink contact pads on, they are all different, so keep track of their positions. Once they are removed gently roll the heatsink over, being careful not to damage the black metal heat transfer material. You can see how I did it in the third photo and the crap paste job it had.

I hope that helps, I know it's made a huge difference for me. The fans don't go up to max speed like they used to constantly and I haven't had any throttling issues since.

 

I reformatted my Razer Blade Pro and lost the THX display profile (had to reformat because I accidentally updated to the Red Stone 3 Windows 10 Creators Update and was having BSOD's and Touch Pad/Keyboard issues). Would anyone who owns the machine and still has not reformatted be able to provide me with the display profile? Thanks!

Edit* File Path: "C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color"

Edit* I got it. Thanks @Heightz