PSA: You can now overclock your laptop monitor [intel/intel+optimus]

Discussion in 'Gaming (Software and Graphics Cards)' started by margroloc, Mar 4, 2017.

  1. James D

    James D Notebook Prophet

    Reputations:
    2,309
    Messages:
    4,895
    Likes Received:
    1,129
    Trophy Points:
    231
    @ayerly This resolution is virtual. It might do something for games but not for general use.
     
  2. ayerly

    ayerly Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    What do you mean when you say it is "virtual" ?

    Because I do see the difference and it is an actual wqhd resolution which is way better for me to work (more space for writing/reading) etc...

    I find it more suitable for general use than games (on which i'd play 1080p@120hz ofc)
     
  3. James D

    James D Notebook Prophet

    Reputations:
    2,309
    Messages:
    4,895
    Likes Received:
    1,129
    Trophy Points:
    231
    Because all that is scaling. You don't actually get more pixels or have a natural WQHD.
     
  4. pipyakas

    pipyakas Notebook Guru

    Reputations:
    14
    Messages:
    56
    Likes Received:
    40
    Trophy Points:
    26
    Even if it's virtual, can it be done with CRU like overclocking? I have a 1366x768 screen and sometimes I need a little bit more screen real estate, even if it's scaled

    Also not related, but since a last few driver updates, if I create any custom profile in CRU, Intel Display Power Saving Tech would automatically turn on after every reboot for me, and it cant be disabled in the Control Panel when plugged it. So what I have to do is unplug then plug in again for the brightness to be normal. Is there a fix for this?
     
  5. lnx64

    lnx64 Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Hey, I have a Thinkpad W541 with the 1920x1080p screen, and I can't get CRU to work at all on it. I am running driver 4568 as required from this thread (I had to hunt it down on a mirror but found it), and I have tried the newer drivers as well. The display is eDP, but I don't know which version. I have tried to even add resolutions like 832x624 at 60Hz (as a test) and that wouldn't even show up either. I can add that mode however through the Intel utility, but only 60Hz, 59 and 61 will not work.

    Any ideas on how to get CRU to overide the EDID? I currently reverted back to driver version 4568 and have left it there since.

    Also, "Hide modes" under the monitor preferences on Windows is greyed out, I cannot override it whatsoever.

    (EDIT: CRU worked fine on my Toshiba Satellite, bringing it from 60 to 90Hz, and my desktop's Dell panel, going from 60 to 75Hz, as long as HDR was disabled. In HDR it wouldn't go above 60Hz at all, and would kick down to 8pbc and not remain in 10bpc).
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2019
  6. TnF

    TnF Notebook Consultant

    Reputations:
    31
    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    14
    Trophy Points:
    31
    That's not totally correct. Just overclocked my asus g73jh panel B173HW01 V4 (AUO149D) to 106hz. This is on LVDS 2ch (edp 40-pin supposedly?) Max pixel clock 228.3Mhz. 60hz 1080p needs min of 142.40Mhz (or so depending on timing settings) so generally if a laptop even pre 2013 came with 1080p panel it will be 2ch. So in practice we can say 112*2=224Mhz max pixel clock for most laptops with 1080p panels, and you can run out of spec by 1-2%.
     
  7. forlornz

    forlornz Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    i got the same panel with predator helios 300 2019, i tried ur custom timings and it worked great on the 155hz, isnt there any way to have it work on 165hz? it keeps on skipping frame
     
  8. Il.Lupo

    Il.Lupo Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    6
  9. margroloc

    margroloc Notebook Geek

    Reputations:
    96
    Messages:
    82
    Likes Received:
    135
    Trophy Points:
    41
    The tutorial part of this thread is not useful any longer but the database part is. I'm really behind on updating it, but here is another entry.

    SHARP SHP14C5 (LQ156M1JW03)

    Native: 15" 1080p 240Hz IGZO IPS

    Overclocked: 250Hz
    Overclocked Timings: (Horizontal, Vertical)
    Active (1920, 1080)
    Front Porch (24, 3)
    Sync Width (40, 5)
    Back Porch (16, 14)
    Blanking (80, 22)
    Total (2000, 1102)
    Polarity (-, -)

    Refresh Rate: 250.000 Hz
    Horizontal Frequency: 275.500 KHz
    Pixel clock: 551.000 MHz

    Interface: 40-pin eDP (physically verified)

    This is the panel used on all the 2019 240Hz 15" gaming laptops. Very decent panel, though response times are slightly worse than the 144Hz AUO 15"er (AUO82ED) according to notebookcheck.
    One odd thing with this panel; the refresh rates that are stable at any given set of timings is not intuitive. The only thing that consistently helped was to tighten the vertical back porch, but sometimes this would make previously working refresh fail. Each set of timings has a very narrow range of working refresh rates (or none at all) - we are talking 0.003Hz tolerance. The direction of this relationship is not obvious. When a refresh rate doesn't work, it just blacks out - there is no artifacting like on other panels that lets you know you are close to stable. Of all the laptop panels I've tried to overclock, this one has behaved the strangest (most unforgiving). Could only get 10Hz out of it, but validated (no frameskips or artifacts). These timings will only work for 250.000Hz (not any more, not any less)
     
    magnussen, hmscott and 0lok like this.
  10. gladoscc

    gladoscc Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    16
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    5
    MSI GS60 with Samsung SDC4C48 on Windows 8.1

    Updated to latest drivers, and could overclock to 90Hz LCD Native however there was artifact in the form that every even/odd line would be slightly darker. Kinda like an old CRT, lol.

    LCD Reduced was able to make the artifact a bit better, but it still existed. Finally, I reduced it to 85Hz reduced, and was able to get a perfect display without any artifacts or dropped frames.

    Thank you so much for this post. Even in 2020, I'm finding it very useful. 60Hz to 85Hz is definitely a noticeable difference; while it's not as good as 144Hz, it's still a great improvement.
     
    Papusan likes this.
Loading...

Share This Page