Post Your Last Purchase

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by NBRUser0159099, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. radji

    radji Farewell, Solenya...

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    Course not! This is the American auto industry. Where they nickel and dime you for EVERYHING!

    The car does come with Key FOBs to lock and unlock the doors. But the alarms are technically "aftermarket". There's no conceivable reason to charge $890 for a car alarm. Getting a whole new alarm installed would have been $200-300 at a place like Best Buy. So I'm not too uncomfortable with an alarm costing that much. So, yes, I share your surprise and resentment. I do not like the fact that a new or Certified Pre-Owned car don't come standard with an alarm.

    How long does the tick last from cold start? 2-3 seconds or 30-60 seconds?
     
  2. killkenny1

    killkenny1 Too weird to live, too rare to die.

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    Well, at least you got cheap petrol...
     
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  3. H.A.L. 9000

    H.A.L. 9000 Occam's Chainsaw

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    I think Germany has it correct. I hate alarms with a passion, and none of the BMW's come with an alarm. They come with remote lock/unlock/trunk release with the build options and pre-wiring for an alarm system. Alarms serve no purpose, imho. Alarms are more trouble than good because they always foul up in some way and randomly start going off, blowing the horn, flashing the lights, draining the battery... ugh. If someone is gonna steal your car or something in it, they're gonna do it regardless of the alarm, and besides... if your car has an immoblizer system, without the key it's not going anywhere anyway. (Let me break into my car by busting the window out, take apart the dash, remove the EWS system, use my reader to pull security info, have my precut key ready to program with AK90 RFID scanner/writer). Basically, if someone wants to steal my car and is successful in driving off in it, having made/programmed their own key, kudos to them. They almost deserve to keep it.

    About the ticking, if you have a CCV/PCV valve for crankcase ventilation, check that. Make sure all your vacuum connections are kosher as well.
     
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  4. radji

    radji Farewell, Solenya...

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    Toyota uses a dual immobilizer system. First one is factory within the Key. Unless the EMC gets a signal from the RF chip in the key, the ignition switch can't activate the starter.

    Second one is part of the "factory alarm"...i.e. aftermarket alarm Toyota dealers have installed. When the alarm is activated or tripped, it cuts off power to the fuel pump.

    It does provide me with some piece of mind as most car thieves are incredibly stupid and cowardly. The blaring horn is enough to scare those chicken cats away. The bolder car thief who's not so scared will attempt to hot wire the ignition, but unless they have intermediate electrical knowledge like you or me, chances are they probably couldn't figure out how to hot wire the fuel pump as well. Which is sad cause that is easier to hot wire than the ignition.

    But yes, if a car thief has gone to the trouble to make up a precut key to my vehicle and has the necessary computer skills to program the RFID chip in it, by all means. I have comprehensive, and the deductible is covered by the alarm manufacturer.

    In reality, I'm not that worried. I park my car either in my driveway or directly across the street within view of my bedroom window. So I'm not worried about it during the night. At school, I park in the front student lot where there's about 500 other cars. Many far nicer than mine. Good luck making it past campus police checkpoint at the gate. They check cars going in and out (why I don't know). And a thief can forget about stealing my car from my work. I work at a City Hall. The campus and parking garage are patrolled by San Diego Sheriff's Dept. And them folks are known to shoot first and ask questions later.

    No, the alarm was more for when I venture out to more undesirable locations in my daily travels. I did ask the service tech to lower the shock sensor's sensitivity. That way the alarm won't go off everytime a Harley drives by. :vbrolleyes:

    AS for the ticking, I asked about duration cause if its only 3-10 seconds, it could be a microcrack in the exhaust manifold. Lifter ticks tend to persist for upwards of 30 seconds.
     
  5. hizzaah

    hizzaah Notebook Virtuoso

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    Usually closer to the 1-2 min mark.. I thought about exhaust leak but like you said it lasted a bit too long for that
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015
  6. hizzaah

    hizzaah Notebook Virtuoso

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    Double post. Mobile on this new site setup is so.... different? Gah..
     
  7. Syndrome

    Syndrome Torque Matters

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    Unless the crack in your manifold is slightly larger than micro. I know the exhaust leak on my Buick takes a few minutes to die down some.
     
  8. Mobius 1

    Mobius 1 Notebook Nobel Laureate

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  9. radji

    radji Farewell, Solenya...

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    Gotta love hydraulic tappets. Do as HAL suggested. A faulty pcv system can hamper the oil pressure and therefore the lifter's performance.

    Only other thing I can suggest is to do check the lifter for free play. This can be very easy or hard depending on your vehicle. If there is none, then it could be the oil pressure problem you think it is.

    But at that point, he will be able to see the crack with his unaided eye.
     
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  10. H.A.L. 9000

    H.A.L. 9000 Occam's Chainsaw

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    Yea, I was working on a friends car a while back (Toyota) and was replacing his exhaust manifold. He had a very large, very visible, vertical crack in it. Sounded awful on startup, but about 5 minutes later, after the manifold had heated up and expanded... sounded normal.

    Another thing to think about, although a bit more rare, is injector noise. Fuel injectors are really noisy when they're about to fail. Plus, you'll hear it tap-tap-tap, almost like you would hear a lifter.
     
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