Oldskool toothpaste to Liquid Metal + MSI MS-1762 tray mod

Discussion in 'Notebook Cosmetic Modifications and Custom Builds' started by jaug1337, Feb 8, 2017.

  1. jaug1337

    jaug1337 de_dust2

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    So just established this thread as a placeholder for me as I sort through all the pictures for the repaste and mod.

    Unfortunately I kept losing overview and forgot to take pictures at certain important events.. but anyways.

    Let the sorting begin.

    P.S. Overall a success (thus far)



    Okay so let's start.

    I've had my MS 1762 since I bought it @pau1ow in late 2012.

    Trying to compete with the absurd benchmarks and overclocks I see on the forums, my MX-2 toilet paste couldn't really keep up anymore, especially with newer titles pushing the GPU and CPU like never before. This was especially confirmed once I repasted and the temps only dropped by a minimal margin.

    Not in a position to upgrade my hardware as of yet, I decided to see if I can make my current gaming station stay cool to last longer. Maybe even OC even more (the current OV's are stable and can barerly be pushed more).

    SO - after reading the @iunlock thread(s) such as: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...dm2-3-g-p75xdm2-g-sager-np9152-np9172.795911/ and etc I went for it.

    WARNING: I am not a smart man, but lucky, I am.

    1

    The temps I got were ... bad, especially with my setup, I could feel the heat melting my right knee.

    [​IMG]

    2

    It helped a bit.. but still sh**!
    [​IMG]

    Then I made the U3 mod.. reverted back to another nVIDIA driver - but it only helped a bit
    [​IMG]

    3

    So here is what my "old" setup looked like (still looks like this more or less)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    4

    So here we are, look what came in the mail!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    lets open this fat old sucker up
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    I have never been a good repaster (sorry for the techsupportgore guys)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    lets just get all of this disgusting gunk away and repaste those old dried out thermal pads
    [​IMG]
    on to the liquid metal painting (yes I failed horribly, if you zoom in you can see the liquid metal outside the die FML, this was taken before I cleaned the GPU 3 times after no post)
    [​IMG]
    on to the next one (CPU BABY)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    being the idiot I was, and using too much liquid metal, I LITERALLY had enough to repaste my W860CU too (have not benched it at all, but the temps are 15-20 degrees lower, insane)
    [​IMG]

    5

    Before I touched it, you could clearly see where the air was pulled from and was cooled, the rest that is marked with dust is where the heat didn't acculuminate properly.
    [​IMG]
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    sanded it down a bit so it at least was soft and seamless
    [​IMG]
    no flash, only artificial background light
    [​IMG]

    6

    So lucky me, I found some cheap and apparently broken older U2 or U3 coolers - sold for 5€ on the Danish craigslist (DBA.dk) -so I went to pick them up and hope for the best.
    As a matter of fact, they were not broken, but the connection was loose, nothing a bit of hot glue didn't solve.

    [​IMG]

    They work! Eureka!!
    [​IMG]

    Final result
    [​IMG]

    7

    So I went straight ahead and started benching after the repaste. (this was with the lower GPU vBIOS tho)
    [​IMG]

    8

    So as seen earlier in the previous setup, I adjusted and remove the wooden block that had the perfect length for the U3 support.. what I did is now I just placed the U3 on the older XPS desktop top aluminum case. It spreads heat way better and helps cool the laptop even more! The wooden shelf/block got heated and didn't dissapate any heat at all.
    The W860CU works (will do some benches ASAP for it)
    [​IMG]
    and on to my baby
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    [​IMG]

    9

    These are my final temps as of now, I am not sure if the liquid metal maybe spread out now or leaked somewhere........ but the temps fell even lower and this is my current temps (notice I did underclock my CPU a little bit, as I barerly benefitted of the higher clocks in the games I play anyways)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I mean it does the job... so I can't complain
    [​IMG]

    Now for the opening ceremony
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    The fingerprint of the CPU is clearly visible
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    Yes yes I know... too much used the 1st time
    [​IMG]
    Now 2nd time around.... I used too much again, singnificantly less than the 1st time, but good lord I can't seem to squeeze out a pin sized amount, my fingers are too damn fat! at least I taped it this time around
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    I'm even bad at placing the tape evenly, oh god why am I this useless
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    10

    Found this badboy when looking through my screenshots haha :D don't judge
    [​IMG]

    WORK IN PROGRESS ATM

    Feel to tell me if you want more info or I did something wrong :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2017
    steberg, Atma, Papusan and 1 other person like this.
  2. Papusan

    Papusan BGA Filthy = That sucks!! STAHP! Dont buy FILTH...

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    Liquid metal outside the die (too much on the heatsink as in your pict) is not very wise. The degradation of liquid metal will occur much faster also on the pure die. + Bigger chance for a leak as you know. Only put liquid metal on the heatsink part who hit the cpu/gpu die:)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. jaug1337

    jaug1337 de_dust2

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    Would you advice me to repaste only the CPU? or go and repaste it all?
     
  4. Papusan

    Papusan BGA Filthy = That sucks!! STAHP! Dont buy FILTH...

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    I would clean up the mess and re-apply new liquid metal at least on the heatsink(But thats me). If you still want liquid metal on gpu. Maybe use eletrical tape around the GPU die. But biggest advantage with liquid metal is on the processor.
     
  5. jaug1337

    jaug1337 de_dust2

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    What would you advice me to clean the liquid metal off with?

    Also I keep hearing that, why is it better on the CPU?
     
  6. Papusan

    Papusan BGA Filthy = That sucks!! STAHP! Dont buy FILTH...

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    A lint-free rag. Isopropanol of high enough % or similar types as http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm Thermal Material Remover. There are also spirits based small handkerchiefs you get at the pharmacy. See also http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._-_30mL_XC-01.html?tl=g8c123s1486&id=uzrm5A76

    Gpu have a more powerful - bigger heatsink than processor. The Gpu die is also bigger vs. Cpu. Aka easier dissipate heat to the heatsink.
     
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  7. jaug1337

    jaug1337 de_dust2

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    So I either go with MX-2 on my GPU or Cond.. I'm going full Cond.

    Going to do a re-paste tomorrow then, and throw some electrical paper along the die on both CPU and GPU.

    edit: now since I will be at it, should I maybe also completely cut out a hole instead of several small holes in the bottom tray? or would it get filled with dust quickly? thinking of it.
     
  8. Papusan

    Papusan BGA Filthy = That sucks!! STAHP! Dont buy FILTH...

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    If you go for conventinal paste for gpu... Aka MX-2 is Junk. Either Gelid Extreme, ICD or Grizzly Kryonaut. But you get best results with liquid metal.
     
  9. jaug1337

    jaug1337 de_dust2

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    Ain't going to wait for shipping and ain't got more money left for new paste.

    So liquid metal it is once again.
     
    Vasudev and Papusan like this.
  10. Vasudev

    Vasudev Notebook Virtuoso

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    I'm still using AS Ceramique 2 paste, it will take some time to get accustomed to metal paste. I'll transition to Kryonaut and next to metal paste. I lack some experience in using metal paste. My temps are similar to OP after repaste with MX4
     

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