Official Guide: Putting a P870TM1 CPU heatsink into a P870KM1 (P870KM to TM1 partial conversion)

Discussion in 'Sager and Clevo' started by DaMafiaGamer, Jun 19, 2019.

  1. DaMafiaGamer

    DaMafiaGamer Notebook Deity

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    DISCLAIMER: This mod is NOT officially supported on the Clevo P870KM1 mentioned below, and YOU assume all the risk and liability by attempting this mod on your own laptop. This thread was created merely to show that these mods are possible!

    Things you will need:

    A screwdriver of course
    P870TM1 Heatsink with fan, rjtech or @clevo-extreme are recommended suppliers to buy from
    Dremel tool/hacksaw, anything that can cut the clevo chassis
    A modified P870KM GPU vapour chamber heatsink with the cpu pipes cut off, if its not vapor chamber don't worry
    Hammer, something that can smash the threads out of the cpu bracket :D

    Things you should buy:

    The P870TM1 CPU backplate, what I attempt to do successfully takes a long time, believe me its just better to get the backplate to avoid any problems with a bent bracket etc.

    CHASSIS PREPARATION:
    You will first need to remove the motherboard from the laptop, this means disassembling the whole thing even take off the screen just in case.
    We are going to dremel/hacksaw part of the chassis where the p870tm heatsink shroud needs to be put in place as can be seen in the picture below:

    [​IMG]

    After this has been hack sawed off you should end up with something like this:
    [​IMG]

    Now the CPU heatsink should fit snugly in the chassis with nothing blocking it, like so:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    CPU BRACKET PREPARATION:

    So now you have modded the chassis the hard part comes, you see the p870tm1 cpu heatsink screw mounts are much lower then that of the p870km1's. As seen below:

    The TM1 heatsink is at the top and the KM1 heatsink is below:
    [​IMG]

    You can instantly see that the TM1 heatsink will not make contact with the CPU in anyway due to how long the threads are on the CPU bracket, stupid CLEVO changed the lengths, so now we have to mod the bracket!

    First of all remove the bracket from the backside of the motherboard, take off the three screws holding down the retention bracket, you should be left with the bracket sticking to the motherboard as shown below:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now screw in the retention bracket screw on the opposite side of the bracket and pull from the motherboard WHILST applying heat, you should end up with the bracket coming off smoothly:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now remove the screws and put in 4 strong metal screws into the 4 threads, we are going to hammer them out. I used an alphacool radiator screw and it did the job removing all 4 threads. What you want to do is hammer the screw down so that the thread comes out of the hole. You then remove the screw and the thread is out! Sorry I didn't take pictures at this part but this should be the end result:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You should be left with four giant holes lol, now what I did was remove the screws from the TM1 heatsink so that the spring mechanism could be removed, this essentially allowed the screws to be of greater length so they could fit in the modified bracket shown below:
    [​IMG]

    I superglued 4 nuts that were the exact size of the CPU heatsink screws, this applies pressure on the CPU backplate evenly meaning that there is no way to cause motherboard damage, clever right? Also the nuts, by maybe 0.5mm, cleared the top palmrest housing as you can see below:
    [​IMG]

    Now it was finally time to assemble the whole laptop together and test to see if the nuts moved under the pressure of the screws, surprisingly they didnt and the CPU heatsink fits flushly on the laptop chassis, a mod well done!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The modified GPU heatsink also cleared the CPU heatsink meaning no problems in the fitting at all:
    [​IMG]

    And thats it! You have successfully got yourself a Clevo P870TM1 from a KM1 chassis with modifications, enjoy the cool temperatures :D

    @sicily428 some info for you to add to your thread :)
    @Mr. Fox You'd like this lol
    @Papusan would probably like this!
    @cope123abc I know you wanted to see this thread!

    Once again, I'd like to thank @clevo-extreme for sending me the CPU heatsink very quickly.

    Please consider donating as I have literally worked on this project for at least a month now, I am a student and need the funds from somewhere to continue the mods I do!
    Here is my paypal link: http://paypal.me/ZeeshanAkhlaq
     
  2. Dr. AMK

    Dr. AMK Living with Hope

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    Great Guide, I did the same last year with my DM3, it was a very successful upgrade,
     
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  3. TheReciever

    TheReciever D! For Dragon!

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    Hmm, I think I will also try something similar with my Ranger in the future, thanks for sharing!
     
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  4. Mr. Fox

    Mr. Fox Undefiled BGA-Hating Elitist

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    Nice job! Looks good. Is the vapor chamber you are using a TM1 or did you mod a KM1/DM3 vapor chamber by chopping off the CPU heat pipes? (Yours doesn't look like a modded vapor chamber.)
     
  5. DaMafiaGamer

    DaMafiaGamer Notebook Deity

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    It's a KM1 vapour chamber, modded by an ebayer who sold it to me :D

    Basically I got lucky finding it as it allowed this mod to happen...
     
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  6. Mr. Fox

    Mr. Fox Undefiled BGA-Hating Elitist

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    Interesting. It doesn't look like it was a butchered version. He did a nice job on the mod.

    One option a person might consider for the CPU heat sink screws is chopping down the CPU back plate standoffs flush with the top of the motherboard to leave the existing threads in place. You could insert a screw from the back side to "chase" the threads and clean them up after shortening the standoffs. But, what you did with the super-glued nuts on the back also works fine. If the super glue ever breaks loose, try using some JB-Weld on the outer edges of the nuts and they will never come loose. You'd have to knock them off with a hammer and chisel. But, don't get any on the threads or you'll never be able to remove the screws, LOL.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2019
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  7. DaMafiaGamer

    DaMafiaGamer Notebook Deity

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    Yeah I complemented him too, he said he works in cnc milling, so he's a professional modder basically, good for me I guess :D
     
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  8. Prema

    Prema Your Freedom, Your Choice

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    That!
    Just cut the CPU stand-offs to the correct length. They are already threaded all the way, works perfectly. No need to replace them.

    Also, only cut the small part from the middle frame that is required and leave the surrounding frame intact. That way we keep the frames integrity and have additional airflow through the small CPU radiator of the TM heatsink.

    Well, that's at least what we did to upgrade our P870DM3's back then. Feel free to dig up those old posts...

    @bloodhawk
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2019
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  9. DaMafiaGamer

    DaMafiaGamer Notebook Deity

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    If only I had a dremel :D I cant cut the threads with a hacksaw lol

    @Mr. Fox I was thinking of literally soldering the nuts in place, they would never move then, but one of the nuts is placed next to the power button ic's. Too much solder and it would short the ic. When I mean the nuts just managed to make it through its literally less than a mm of space left, ofc I put some electrical tape on the ic and the superglue seems to be holding really well.

    Pro tip, if you add any kind of dust/sand to the superglue you get a cement type of mixture, I recommend you try it, you will never have the superglued thing come off ever!
     
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  10. artpra

    artpra Notebook Consultant

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    Yeah, I would like to see them before I start chopping my KM :p
    Two main questions are:
    - how many millimeters do we need to cut from stand-offs/what is this correct length?
    - which part of the frame exactly is required to cut?
     
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