*** OFFICIAL GIGABYTE AERO 15 OWNERS LOUNGE ***

Discussion in 'Gigabyte and Aorus' started by BringTheRain403, May 8, 2017.

  1. fireedo

    fireedo Notebook Consultant

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    I'm sorry if this post is not appropriate, but here is my 3DMark firestrike result, seems a little bit off
    3DMark_GTX 1070 Max-Q.png
     
  2. CedricFP

    CedricFP Notebook Evangelist

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    @fireedo

    Your graphics score is 16000 and that seems just fine for a 1070 Max-Q? In fact, a little higher than I expected, I've seen mostly 15k-ish scores.

    My GTX1060 overclocked Aero 15 gets 12k graphics score (look at link in sig) so this score is right in line with how the 1070MQ performs better than the 1060.
     
  3. HussainQ

    HussainQ Notebook Evangelist

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    I think he was referring to the weird RAM Branding
     
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  4. CedricFP

    CedricFP Notebook Evangelist

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    Ah, I totally missed that!
     
  5. sanyex

    sanyex Notebook Enthusiast

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    This was with aida64 to Test Extreme unrealistic conditions. No thermal throttling. The other temps are from the 3d mark Benchmark firestrike
     
  6. margroloc

    margroloc Notebook Geek

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    I tried to circumvent nvidia's power limit (~70W for 1060) via hardware.

    Ripped the board out, ran furmark, started poking at it live with tweezers.

    Stuff I saw: Intersil 95855A for intel stuff (side facing keyboard), uP9511P for GPU (also side facing keyboard), uP1666Q for GDDR5 (side facing the floor).
    TI INA3221 for gpu current sensing like on desktop cards. Have photos but cant be bothered to post.

    There's a 5mOhm shunt resistor on the left side of the board (facing floor) visible when you pop the cover off. I tried shorting it but reported power consumption didn't seem to change - GPU boost wouldn't push voltages/clocks any higher in furmark. There are no big resistors like that anywhere else on either side of the board, though I didn't take heatsink off so can't be 100% sure.
    I also tried shorting various other resistors around the board and nothing worked. Not sure if it's b/c GPU is calculating power some other way or because my tweezers weren't very conductive - no multimeter to check for sure and no liquid metal on hand.

    Also I managed to slip my tweezers a couple times while testing it live. Shorted out the board several times --> sparking (LOL) & shuts off immediately. Fortunately the mainboard seems surprisingly resilient, thought I would have fried it multiple times but it 100% works. Good job the board design at least, gigabyte.

    Best hope for lifting power limit still remains liquid metal on the shunt resistor. Don't do what I did.

    ----------------------

    Also I took off a keycap and started messing with the switching mechanism. I can 100% confirm with absolute certainty as if god said it himself that the keyboard chattering is a hardware problem (with the stiff rubber domes). Sure a future firmware update might help but it wont be better than keyboard chattering app and is not a true fix. Only replacement hardware will take care of it.
     
  7. fireedo

    fireedo Notebook Consultant

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    sorry that my fault, yes that's ram brand is really unacceptable, it is a v-color product and first time i heard this brand, even on their website doesnt mention this ddr4 2666 ram
     
  8. Jeehong

    Jeehong Notebook Guru

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    Could you explain how stiff key switchs are related to the chattering?
    Also, is this problem affecting the ignorance of inputs depending which side you push on each key too?
     
  9. margroloc

    margroloc Notebook Geek

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    It's nothing to do with the plastic retention arms under the keycaps, just the dome. The dome acts like the spring that pushes the keycap up and holds them in place when you're not typing. On these aero keyboards the force required to press down the key is more than you would find on most other laptops and that's due to the stiffness of the dome. The problem is something to do with the dome - it is either not a good design or the manufacturing is very loose. Basically they bounce and re-actuate the electrical contact after you press.

    Testing:
    I took the keycaps off and pressed only the dome down with a plastic spudger tool to rule out the effect of the keycap/plastic arms and the chattering was present. I tried my finger and the chattering was present. I also tried pressing the dome with both sides of the keycap (keycap not secured to the plastic hinges) and the chattering was present. All on video, with slo-mo, so I am 100% certain.

    There were a couple times I pressed down on the dome and the input was ignored, so whatever issue you're having may be related though I can't be certain about that just because it's harder to know whether the ignored input was due to the dome or due to not pressing down enough on the dome. You can try reseating the keycap since they need to be secured to the switch in all 4 corners. If it's not that or you don't want to risk damaging a key then you should return it.
     
  10. jrmtz85

    jrmtz85 Notebook Consultant

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    I'm having an interesting issue. It seems windows task manager is detecting my 32GB of RAM as 2666Mhz, but 3DMARK and CPUZ are detecting it as 2400MHZ. Is there some setting I need to change somewhere for this? Screenshots here: https://imgur.com/a/Eut9xIv
     
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