**Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here!**

Discussion in 'Sager/Clevo Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Ultra Male, Aug 3, 2016.

  1. cj_miranda23

    cj_miranda23 Notebook Evangelist

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    Please do a complete guide including all materials and tools the you will be using.
     
    bennyg likes this.
  2. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Deity

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    pics uploaded to imgur for now

    album link: https://imgur.com/a/TTyAJ


    [​IMG]

    results at AUTO fans you can see where I turned the pump on about 1/3rd of the way along the hwinfo graph
    [​IMG]
    Note the master GPU was temp throttling (90C limit in my modded vbios) on air only, which was stopped as the temps dropped.
    While CPU temps dropped I think that's more due to less heat bleed from the 'grid' coming across rather than water/tube pulling it off from on top of the CPU heatpipes. CPU-load-only testing shows very little gain from having the pump on vs off, <3C at the moment at >85W load.

    CPU benefits... underwhelming so far, that needs a bit more alignment and probably rubber stoppers against the bottom case since without something pushing against it, gravity is pulling the tube down and away from the CPU

    Surface and keyboard temps are noticeably lower.

    In practical use, I've noticed it's the difference between medium and max fans at Ultra 4K@58hz gsync on Crysis 3. Max fans on this thing is insane loud, like, you need noise cancelling headphones loud. This is mainly my goal here, useability: surface temps and noise.


    Not sure a full guide is needed, it's pretty low tech and simple and I'm too impatient to vlog stuff while working on it.
    • Bend copper tube into shape (pipe bender and tube cutter) - takes a long time to do properly
    • Cut tube and solder on quick disconnects (rosin flux + solder paste + heat gun, I used Sn63Pb37 here)
    • gently sand off black heatsink surface around the route (dremel/sandpaper approx 120grit) then wetsand that nice and flat (~400 grit)
    • full disassembly to remove and cut the internal frame to fit the big quick disconnect (dremel)
    • Prep heatsink surface with brasso (metal polish) & clean the residue from that off with isopropyl alcohol
    • Arctic silver epoxy to attach
    • I reused the same loop setup from my previous efforts: 360mm rad+6x quiet&cheap 120mm CM SI2 in push+pull+MCP655 on speed 2/5+250mL res + cheap PSU with atx switch board+10mm soft PVC tubing+dilute automotive green alloy coolant mix
    Quick disconnects are 8mm phobya bulkheads in black nickel (I got them at a decent discount and are now discontinued off the aquatuning.de site I got them from but are similar to these: https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...release-connector-kit-13/10mm-bulkhead?c=6489 - took a long time to find the right ones!
    The 8/10mm ones I got have no internal rubber o-rings so are soldered to the 6mm copper tube which fits almost flush inside with only minimal sanding required. A very nice tight fit. I removed the screw comp fitting for the internal part (upper right on this pic) where soldered to copper tube since its not needed and it fits more of the bulk of the QDC inside the case with less protrusion.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2018
  3. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    Consider the normal heat flow, it follows up from the contact point, follows the heat pipes to the fins and then leaves.

    You are creating a secondary vapor flow loop in opposition to the normal flow which is why you don't see larger gains.
     
  4. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Deity

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    I've not heard of this 'opposing flow' concept before, I thought the liquid just flowed (in proportion to the amount of heat being transferred) along the wick from the coldspot/s towards the hotspot/s (and vapour in the opposite direction) regardless of where the temperature regions are along the surface of the heatpipe/vapour chamber? Can you provide a link or search term, I can't seem to find any further details on this phenomenon.

    From how much play there is in that side of the tube when it's hanging down I still think the main issue is contact, and quality of attachment of the shims, especially the AS epoxy between the shims and the copper tube, it just doesn't look or feel right, it's brittle and flakes away as though there's too much hardener and not enough resin, even though I used all of both previously unopened tubes at once and mixed them thoroughly.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2018
  5. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    It's just from personal knowledge and a flowing system with limited fluid and how much heat is being dumped. Getting the slimmer KM series heatsink and crossing it over the GPU fin area might work better for your project.
     
  6. otto_kahn

    otto_kahn Notebook Consultant

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  7. otto_kahn

    otto_kahn Notebook Consultant

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    if it runs 8700k on z270, will it work in Z170 too?
     
  8. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Deity

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    otto_kahn likes this.
  9. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    Yes if you can mix the z270 then the z170 will work, they are virtually identical.
     
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  10. D2 Ultima

    D2 Ultima Livestreaming Master

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    Anyone know of a safe way to remove one of the keys from the keyboard of these things? Feels like I'm gonna break it, but I probably have to clean my W key. If I hold it down for a while, it will continue holding itself after I let go for about 2-3 seconds. Only happens on that key.
     
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