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**Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge**

Discussion in 'Sager/Clevo Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by HTWingNut, Jan 6, 2015.

  1. aeneas3

    aeneas3 Notebook Enthusiast

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    nevermind there was a sticker covering the screws - glad I did not force it!
     
  2. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    Phew, never use a lot of force in a notebook unless you are REALLY sure it's needed (that's very rarely)
     
  3. rikame

    rikame Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hi all, I'm probably cursed and my Sager shut off last night. It had blue-screened once or twice earlier in the day so I had a few concerns, but then it shut off without a blue screen. It won't turn back on. Replaced the cmos, held down power for 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 120 seconds etc., with no luck. Tried with only the batter and only the adapter, nothing. The AC adapter was making a clicking sound that it had never made before, and the power led light on the laptop flashed along with the clicking. Well, after reaching out to technical support, they asked a question about the behavior and I went to check again, and when I plugged in the adapter there was a loud pop sound. Now there's no clicking sound, no power indicators on the laptop nor on the AC adapter, and zero sign of life from anything in the computer. I don't even have another computer with an M.2 slot for me to check the health of the SSD.

    Edit: the adapter was is now supplying 0.3 volts, rather than the rated 19.5. I'm not sure if the adapter destroyed the laptop or if the laptop destroyed the adapter.

    I guess my question is, does anybody have any advice, like at all? Sager has been slow to respond and I'm wondering if maybe Geeksquad or Microcenter have a chance of fixing this thing—otherwise it seems that I spent more than $2,000 on a computer that barely lasted more than two years and I'll be very sad . _.
     
  4. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    Sounds like there is a short on the motherboard and that's not something that normal retail shops can help you with.
     
  5. t456

    t456 1977-09-05, 12:56:00 UTC Moderator

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    Measure the battery and if it still has 13.5V or more you should be able to run on that. If not, then try a different adapter. A universal is fine, even if it only has 150W or so; it'll trip up under load, but we're only interested in seeing whether the mb is still fine.

    If it doesn't work even at that battery voltage or with a different adapter then make a photo of both sides of the mb near the DC connector. A spike usually halts when it breaks some smd component here (or trigger the fuse) and these can be replaced quite cheaply. Though not by most shops, as @Meaker@Sager has indicated. Any decent soldering/repair shop can do this, so no need to limit the search to only those that market themselves as doing computer/laptop repair services.

    Sounds like either a large capacitor on the adapter has popped or its inrush current limiter was overloaded. Both will be very audible and can be easily spotted when opening the adapter. Either failure can be the result of a 'dirty' power circuit in the house, so you may want to check the other appliances that are running from the same circuit; these may be affected as well or they could be faulty themselves, killing the adapter along the way.
     
  6. rikame

    rikame Notebook Enthusiast

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    I appreciate the insight from both of you.

    With regard to what t456 said, I don't have another adapter that would fit this (I have honestly never even seen this 4-pin plug on a different computer, I think I saw it like one other time on some other kind of device), but either way it's not turning on regardless. Ill try to test the battery, should be easy to measure. I'll have to open the laptop up, I've never disassembled it to this much of an extent so it's a bit spooky, but I'll try to get footage of the area around the DC connector.

    I don't think it was dirty power; I suspect that something did pop or melt because the day prior I started using the laptop in a manner that would have made it draw more power than it ever did in the past. Everyone said the 970M was a good overclocker but uh, well... It seemed perfectly stable for about six hours of gaming and another 8 hours of light-use, but I guess it could have been a slow death. That said, I'll certainly keep it in mind because it's a possibility, and I'll have to figure out how things are actually wired around here.
     
  7. t456

    t456 1977-09-05, 12:56:00 UTC Moderator

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    Some of the Toshiba Qosmio models use the same plug and are a fair bit cheaper: Qosmio 180W adapter for $31. Not sure whether it is of any use at this point, considering you need a new adapter anyway (or fix the current one, but that needs some soldering work). The original 230W being a ~$150 affair and taking in mind that it may have been an overload you may want to play it safe and get the 330W model instead.

    The Qosmio might make a nice travel adapter though.
     
  8. rikame

    rikame Notebook Enthusiast

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    I may have to get one. I figured something out though, the computer will power on and post if the mxm gpu is removed. It won't boot or display anything, and it beeps madly, but the keyboard and bottom light bar light-up the as they should in a successful post. I bet I fried the gpu like a moron and that whatever damage it did affects the 12v rail and (1) prevents the computer from trying to boot when the gpu is on the circuit and (2) blew the power adapter as a result.

    So uh, is getting some 4000-series AMD mxm 3.0b gpu something that might work if I just want a functioning screen? I don't think I can use the igpu but spending a lot of money to send it to sager and probably then pay hundreds for a Maxwell gpu doesn't sound great, tbph
     
  9. Meaker@Sager

    Meaker@Sager Company Representative

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    If there is a short on the board it could cut it out yes. You could try some cheap quadro card like a k1000.
     
  10. rikame

    rikame Notebook Enthusiast

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    I didn't want to spend even that much on a weak GPU to test things, so I bought a dirt-cheap Alienware 260M. Unsurprisingly I got no video with the screen or any external monitors, but it did turn on, and it posts. It's a relief that everything else still seems to work but I can't find a compatible GPU for less than $250, and with a 970M becoming inadequate, $500 for a replacement and another $120+ for an adapter isn't worth it. Really wish these things were capable of using the iGPU without an MXM card, at this point the thing is basically totaled. Guess it's time to start scrapping parts to get some of the value back. I guess the lesson is "don't skimp on the extended warranty, ever".
     
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