*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M Owner's Lounge

Discussion in '2015+ Alienware 13 / 15 / 17' started by ssj92, Jan 8, 2019.

  1. SacraficeMyGoat

    SacraficeMyGoat Notebook Evangelist

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    None as of yet.

    I would like to see some AMD options though.

    The next rev may include Ryzen, who knows though.
     
  2. captn.ko

    captn.ko Notebook Deity

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    My Screenshot confirms it ;) Max GPU was 76
     
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  3. S.K

    S.K Batch 80286

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    The color underneath is totally preserved despite heavy usage of the palm rest area. And what's best is that this stuff that I used is wipe-cleanable and moisture proof. It's a giant vinyl roll that you can buy from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2953D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I don't mind using these patches as I have been using this technique to protect my palm rests for a really long time and it works quite well + not that big of a cosmetic issue since these areas stay hidden under my palms pretty much the entire time I'm using the machine because I don't use an external keyboard. I am in the process of trying new skins though and will settle with the one that looks and feels the best to touch and to use. That carbon fiber one was quite rough to the touch and had sharp pointed edges at the corners that always poked the hand while typing so I got rid of it. Plus, it was getting a little dim on the palm rest area anyway.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2019
  4. VoodooChild

    VoodooChild Notebook Evangelist

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    I understand what you're saying mate and I agree with you. I wish dbrand made some high quality skin for this system, I would be willing to try it out. I've been using a carbon fiber setup for my old AW and it's still looks classy. I don't like the quality of those cheap Chinese knockoffs, especially the glue they use because it tends to leave a lot of residue behind. Let us know what you decide and share some pics man.

    I need your suggestion here, what settings in TS and Afterburner would you recommend me to get the max battery life form this machine. What other settings also you'd recommend? Cheers brother.

    Sent from a Galaxy S9+
     
  5. Waldbjoern

    Waldbjoern Newbie

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    So another one bites the dust...

    Initial problems was a bad left speaker, which was changed on location by a local tech who brought the part and changed it on behalf of dell. Everything was fine for a while.. But.....

    My 51m 9900k 2080 is dead and needs some new parts. (Was re-pasted with Kyronaut with success, and ran with this for a month or so)

    Started with not being able to shut down the computer properly. Went through the shutdown process like its suppose to, but when the screen shuts off, the computer just stayed on and wouldn't shut down until i held down the power button. At first it was random, but after a week of doing this, it was consistent and it just wouldn't power off. To clear things off - the computer functioned fine while on, and gave no identification about being closed down like this when I came into windows. The only thing that was curios to me was that AWCC reset my OC settings every time i powered it back on.

    Talked to AW support, who advised me to update all windows drivers and flash to newest BIOS.. Thing is - without being able to reboot, the BIOS update was out of reach, since it wasn't loading after i had to hold down the power button to restart it.
    So tech support advised me to go ahead and backup my files and do a local recovery. The recovery went through like it was suppose to, but as soon as i hit "welcome screen" when you choose country, type inn account info and so forth, the screen started shutting off for 30 seconds or so, then coming back on for 5-10 seconds, only to go black again. This would continue even tho it seemed like the computer was running fine even tho the screen was black. Same issue with external screens, running on either HDMI or DP.

    Tried a new recovery from cloud, and the same stuff happened.

    On advice from the TECH support i tried doing a clean new windows install, that came along nicely. Direct download from windows with no AW specific drivers. Got through the entire install and startup procedure but this time offline, since there were no drivers for either Ethernet or WiFi. Came in to windows with no flickering of the screen. Downloaded Ethernet drivers from different computer and installed them on the 51m. As soon as it came online i started downloading drivers it all happend over again. 10-20 seconds into having internet on the computer.

    During all these tries of installing windows over and over again - perhaps 10 times all in all - i had a few random shutdowns of the computer and windows giving me BSOD. Also errors like blue screen with the text - it looks like windows hasn't be loaded correct. Also white screens happened, where the screen would stay white for up to 30 seconds before going back to normal.

    Another weird issue that became more and more frequent was color issues and pixel errors.

    You gotta love all the freaking updates this computer gets every other day. Cant even recall all the weird stuff I've had to go through with keys not working after an update, with BSOD while trying to update chip-set, BIOS updates every other week and AWCC updates.. So much instability.

    Also a hardware test was run with no errors.

    Video of the blackouts, which varies in length -->
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2019
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  6. S.K

    S.K Batch 80286

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    I use Intel XTU and I am at -165mV with stock clocks when using the battery (haven't experimented with dropping the clocks to 4GHz across all cores and undervolting it even further, though that might be an interesting project). I don't do much with the GPU though. One thing that I did do however that seems to have helped trenemdously in reducing the clutter as well as increasing the battery life is that I removed the mechanical drive from my machine and introduced a sata ssd instead + force removed windows components from the Windows 10 build that I do not use / need. They include Xbox related garbage, Windows updates delivery optimization (all services related to it), a lot of junk that comes stock with windows and disabled system restore (which is borderline useless anyway if you take backups externally). Battery life is quite decent on my machine now - getting roughly 3.5 to 4 hours with moderate internet usage and bluetooth. Although I'm sure it'd improve further if I put it into airplane mode on top of it.

    The information you have presented is quite vague to say the least. The "unable to shutdown" is a bug in Windows 10 that has been dragging on since Windows Vista and re-emerges after every few builds. Basically a driver induced kernel panic at the time of shutdown which creates a lot of problems. For me, the most likely culprit so far over the last few years consistently, has been the igfx crappy Intel's UHD graphics driver. It bothers A LOT if you use external monitors via thunderbolt or USB port. I have that bugger disabled in my device manager as a routinely preventative measure. The best way to pin point the problem is to go through the Windows Event Viewer -> System event logs as they hold each and every single one of the errors and their details that this laptop has ever encountered. Without that information, you are just taking a guess whether this is a faulty motherboard or there is something else that is causing this problem. A simple electrostatically charged cloth particle could wreak all kinds of havoc if it slips through the vents and lands inside (this is an extreme case example which is very rare, but just to give you an idea how many possibilities lay ahead of you).

    First thing that I'd do in your situation is to take a backup of ALL ERRORS + WARNINGS that you see in the Event Viewer's System events section and stop using the machine. There is a high chance that you'll likely pin point the culprit. If not, then open it up, remove all hard drives except a single one that you use for OS, remove the audio daughter board, remove the RAMs and replace with stock sticks that came from the factory (in case you did an aftermarket upgrade), remove any USB devices that you might be using the entire time, and just install windows on a barebone computer. Once that goes through smoothly, start adding things back up one by one to identify the root cause.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2019
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  7. JAGGERBREAD

    JAGGERBREAD Notebook Consultant

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    Typical RTX failure (Even desktop ver.), not related to the smoke issue. Blame is on Nvidia
     
  8. Waldbjoern

    Waldbjoern Newbie

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    Well this is not an issue I am going to spend more time on myself - i think its more then fair that you can assume that a 5k laptop can reboot on its own, without me having to take it all apart and start to find out what part that's actual screwed. And I haven't added any hardware to the computer since i received it, so its all straight from the factory.
    Making a bare bone install with no USB devices connected nor any screens connected has bin tried and worked non of the 10 times done. Only when installing the windows with a clean installation without any AW drivers was this a half success. As soon as the internet was connected to it, it all went south again.
     
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  9. S.K

    S.K Batch 80286

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    What I suggested above was to minimize your headaches with back and forth support dispatches. If you have a good part, no need to send it back. Who knows what batch your next parts will be from? This procedure will just help you identify the problem and force the support to ship you the right part. This will minimize your headaches, unless you are willing to wait for several weeks for a brand new machine depending upon where you live.
     
  10. VoodooChild

    VoodooChild Notebook Evangelist

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    I agree with you. Hassle AW until they give you a new system replacement. This is not the typical burning issue people have had so you might have to be relentless in your pursuit because of all the robot retards who picks up the call at Dell customer care. Good luck and keep us posted.

    Sent from a Galaxy S9+

    I'll try to run at 4Ghz with maximum undervolt on CPU and about 1500Mhz with maximum undervolt on the GPU while on battery mode and report my findings here.

    I must say I'm pleasantly surprised that the battery life is quite good for this machine considering the power it is packing. I'll try and squeeze 4 hours with 50% brightness if possible. Currently I'm getting 2 and half hours at stock.

    Sent from a Galaxy S9+

    I tested the drives swapping out theory for you and I can confirm that when booting from 2nd m.2 slot (above the CMOS battery, next to the battery) , my boot drive Crucial P1 ran about 10C cooler than usual while unzipping a 60GB game using all threads at 4.8Ghz. Earlier it was running super hot at about 70C, now it's at 59-60C and the idle temps have also dropped by about 5C. So, I'm keeping this slot usage for now.

    Boot nvme drive in slot 2 (above the cmos) and storage drive in the other one. I can also confirm that my storage drive is running slightly hotter by about 3C at idle with this configuration. Hope this helps you. Cheers

    Sent from a Galaxy S9+
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2019
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