New LG Gram 17

Discussion in 'LG' started by vvb8890, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. palatkik

    palatkik Notebook Consultant

    Reputations:
    23
    Messages:
    213
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Very impressive set up by @skipper63. I am indeed envious! I have just added a second external screen to my LG17 Gram 2019 edition - so I use the HDMI port for an external 2600x1400 monitor and have an older external 1920*1080 monitor running off the Thunderbolt port with an unpowered USBc>HDMI port adapter plugged in there.

    Now for my simple question if I may as a bit of a newbie:

    Whenever I use the thunderbolt port in this way (and its the first time I have ever used this port since adding the extra screen) I notice that the laptop battery power very slowly goes down and will not recharge upwards until I remove the Thunderbolt port HDMI adapter. All the power in comes from the original laptop charger brick using the power in socket. One time I left the laptop on battery only ran it down to 10% and would never charge up again until I took out the Thunderbolt port HDMI adapter.

    Is this normal or are there any power settings I need to change?
     
  2. hfm

    hfm Notebook Prophet

    Reputations:
    1,970
    Messages:
    4,587
    Likes Received:
    2,299
    Trophy Points:
    231
    That's odd. It seems like it THINKS it should be able to draw power from the monitor, but obviously that isn't true. You could try to leave it disconnected, boot up, change the USB-C charging profile to SOURCE, then reconnect it. That might stop the laptop from thinking it can try to sink power from USBC, but then that changes back every time you reboot I think.

    Either that or buy a Thunderbolt hub that can supply power delivery and just power using that.
     
  3. palatkik

    palatkik Notebook Consultant

    Reputations:
    23
    Messages:
    213
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    31
    Yes, think I will try another Thunderbolt hub when I get time. This unpowered one gets hot taking power from the laptop. I tried more than one ext screen same result. Changing the settings in LG Control Center power settings makes no difference - so left that on Auto.

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  4. palatkik

    palatkik Notebook Consultant

    Reputations:
    23
    Messages:
    213
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    31
    OK I replaced the hub before (which was getting hot) and replaced it with just a cable (USBc>HDMI) and the power mostly stays fully charged now - sometimes dropping 1% but mostly full.
     
  5. malcolm swift

    malcolm swift Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    mine does not power up power button and f5 flash twice thats it 5 days out of warranty
     
  6. lupohki

    lupohki Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Hi everyone, I just got an LG Gram 17 from Costco. There are two issues about the laptop that I would like to make better and was wondering if anyone has already attempted.

    1) The speakers/sound are bad

    I see there is plenty of room to put a bigger speaker module in the case. I was thinking of replacing the stock speakers with a module from a laptop with known good sound such as the Lenovo Yoga https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-Yog...Speaker-Set-Speakers-PK23000QXL0/193370735147

    2) Better cooling

    I saw the dual fan / extra heatpipes mod and that's out of my league for now to implement, but I was thinking of using liquid metal Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut as a TIM for now. Would this be worthwhile?

    Appreciate any input.
     
  7. hfm

    hfm Notebook Prophet

    Reputations:
    1,970
    Messages:
    4,587
    Likes Received:
    2,299
    Trophy Points:
    231
    1. No harm in trying if you can do it non-destructively. Easier option would be headphones or external speakers. I doubt it would make much difference, they are down-firing.

    2. Liquid metal wouldn't be worth it IMO. It's dangerous unless you take the time to protect other components. Get some top shelf non-conductive TIM like kryonaut if you want to go that route. I used Collaboratory liquid metal pad which is safer than liquid metal, but it didn't help much over kryonaut if you can get a good even cpu die contact. The 2020 model heat sink and heat pipe mounting looks a lot better. 4 corner fastener mounting instead of 3 mounts, better to have even pressure distribution contact between CPU/GPU dies and the heat pipe. But I still think it might help a little in idle temps, but when things get loaded down I bet that new heat sink/pipe assy is going to get saturated just as much as the old one. I would advise against liquid metal unless you are willing to coat all the nearby components and dam the dies so it doesn't ever leak out.

    I'm not even running throttlestop anymore, I don't really notice any difference gaming or working on things.
     
  8. MonoSage

    MonoSage Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    6
    I'd like to point out liquid metal may cause corrosion of copper heat pipe over time and degrading its thermal performance. It's already a known issue that LM gives great temps in the beginning but after a year performance degrades severely.
     
    hfm likes this.
  9. hfm

    hfm Notebook Prophet

    Reputations:
    1,970
    Messages:
    4,587
    Likes Received:
    2,299
    Trophy Points:
    231
    It definitely corrodes aluminum. It should be pretty safe for copper, might stain it but corrosion is not a concern.
     
  10. wimpod

    wimpod Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Ok, I finally opened up my gram 17. It was a little more difficult than expected, the lower lid was kind of stuck at the hinge area. But it eventually gave up. I removed the heat pad with alcohol on both sides, it was pretty messily applied... replaced with MX-4 paste.
    Temps look better now, still goes slightly above 91 and throttles, but no more 96 degrees, thankfully. Perhaps further improvement could be gained by using liquid metal, but that stuff seems a bit scary. That heatsink is super lightweight BTW!

    Just a quick check though... the trackpad only physically clicks at the bottom corners, right? At first the bottom lid was not 'clicked' completely in, so the click of the trackpad was no longer registering. Once the lid was fully 'clicked' back, it works fine again, but I just cant remember if one is able to 'click-in' the trackpad in the top corners as well. My only reference is a macbook pro which just has fake vibration clicking, so that's not much help :)
     
Loading...

Share This Page