New LG Gram 17

Discussion in 'LG' started by vvb8890, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. hfm

    hfm Notebook Virtuoso

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    Mine seems fine, I haven't noticed it having poor sound quality. I did turn off the DTS app stuff that came with the laptop, I use Dolby Atmos Headphone or nothing depending on what I'm doing.

    Do you have high impedance headphones by chance? I'm using a pair of 32 ohm Beyerdynamic MMX300's (Basically the DT770's with a cardioid microphone attached). They sound great.
     
  2. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Geek

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    What I hear with Synaptics Smartaudio on the headphones is a high pass filter at around 300 Hz, so there is no bottom end at all. Toggling "Disable all sound effects" twice leads to having the full bottom end. This happens regardless of the headphones I use. But as stated, no issues with the Microsoft driver besides not having that filter on the speakers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
  3. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Geek

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    I reinstalled the driver using LG DnA Center and now the problem is here again. Looking at the device manager it seems to be caused by the fact anytime headphones are plugged in, a new headphone device appears with (wrong) default settings. My Synaptics SmartAudio HD driver version is 8.66.92.58 from 2/13/2019. Do you have a different one?
     
  4. hfm

    hfm Notebook Virtuoso

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    I have the same driver version as you.
     
  5. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Geek

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    I did some more stuff in the meantime as my razer fan/hat pipe assembly arrived. Mostly stuff that didn't work out in the end.

    But first I dumped my bios using a CH341 usb eeprom burner and a bios clamp. I located the bios chip near the fan and detached the battery and was able to read my bios. This will allow me to safely flash a modded bios in the future. The bios chip is easy to reach, which makes this procedure mostly painless.

    hw bios reading flashing.jpg

    I then cut the fan cable and figured out the pins of the fan cable and the razer fan using an oscilloscope to find out which one is the sensor. The pin-out on my board (looking the normal way with the fan on the left and the ssd on the right) is (left to right & colors):

    +5V(red) | Speed Sensor (blue) | Ground (black) | PWM Control (yellow)

    the order was different on the razer fan. Every fan needs checking. I soldered the plug to the razer fan and was able to make it turn using the motherboard. At this point I realized it indeed is a much louder fan. Prior tests also showed that it does not move that much more air than the stock fan. It is in fact quite similar with very thin blades, just a bit larger in diameter.

    I found no reasonable way to attach the full razer assembly to the CPU so I started modding the fan to make the stock heatpipe fit and ended up with this:

    razer fan modded.JPG

    I had to remove quite a bit of material from the sides of the fan to be able to sandwich the fins + heat pipe in between. It all looked quite promising, but when I finally was ready to test I found I had damaged the fan and now it makes a bad noise and doesn't turn well anymore :(. Obviously this did not improve cooling at all.

    I went back to the stock fan and tried a different extra heat pipe arrangement:

    smaller heatpipe to fan case.JPG

    This is more in line what Brad from bradshack did in the matebook x pro. The idea is to use the fan case as an extra "fin". However I found performance to be worse than before with my larger heat pipe which sat just on top of the original one. Maybe part of the reason is that the LG gram fan isn't all metal, but has plastic sides. This means the heat cannot move to the underside of the fan. I plan to change that in the future using graphene.

    The next day I had a new idea. The heat fins on the razer assembly have the perfect size for the unused gap between fan and case exit. Using hot air I detached the fins from the razer heatpipe. I then used those fins in my gram and this has worked quite well. I used graphene to attached the extra fins, but had to remove a bit of plastic from the exhaust plastic fins to make the new fins fit perfect. This mod allows me to sustain ~25W again even with the less performant heat pipe arrangement. The ideal fin size without mods would be 74mm x 18mm x 6mm btw and the razer is 75x20x6.

    extra fins and graphene.JPG plastic exhaust fins.jpg

    That sums up what I did. I'm happy with performance but I wished temps were lower. I now believe the stock fan isn't that bad and the big issue is the heat pipe + heat fin configuration.

    I might try to mod my bios or ask someone on bios-mods to do it for me to maybe gain more fan control.

    For a final future push I decided I will go back to the larger heatpipe, but this time I will solder it to the orig pipe using low temperature solder. I have to wait for that to arrive. Then I'll use more graphene to attach the extra fins on both sides and hopefully link the top and the bottom of the fan case thermally.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2019
    Sir Punk, nalim and hfm like this.
  6. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Geek

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    btw. hfm, where did you buy the extra fan + heat pipe for the LG Gram 13 ? I'd like to get a spare before I start soldering and my fan cable is now a bit diy looking.
     
  7. hfm

    hfm Notebook Virtuoso

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    I didn't get a fan, just the heat pipe assembly. Bought it from an ebay seller.
     
  8. palatkik

    palatkik Notebook Consultant

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    Whats the black raised rim made out of that keeps the screen separated from keyboard when the laptop is closed? I see a black rim on the photos, it's not rubber is it?

    (Reason I ask is my last 17inch was a HP Envy 2000 series, came with a rubber trim around its screen and it started disintegrating in the tropics.)

    Cheers,
     
  9. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Geek

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    I'd say the rim is made from a mixture of rubber and plastic.. probably not pure rubber, but it definitely has a rubber-like feel.
     
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  10. vujazzman

    vujazzman Newbie

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    @hfm Were you able to resolve your linux boot issues? I too have a flood of acpi error messages on boot with the default arch linux kernel. It eventually boots, but the resulting system is unstable (random restarts, suspend has worked exactly once).

    Using pci=noacpi clears up all these issues, but the resulting system doesn't detect the trackpad, and suspend also doesn't work (the screen turns off, but then the system cannot be woken up. The capslock led flashes, and F5 and power leds are solid).

    We really need a firmware update, or an understanding of whats wrong with the ACPI implementation to fix it. Or, as is apparently the case, maybe Fedora has managed to mitigate the problem and whatever they are doing (kernel config, kernel patches?) could applied more generally. Ill try to check if a fedora livecd will boot with no issue...
     
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