New LG Gram 17

Discussion in 'LG' started by vvb8890, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    If you need to solder anyway, why do you need the wires? Just solder the existing fan wires together. I would be a bit worried about the power draw from two fans though. I guess we'd be fine moving from the 0.31 A fan to one 0.5 A, but using two fans would almost triple the power draw.

    I am looking hard at the fan/heat-pipe assembly of the razer blade stealth 13.3'' i7 8550 model... it looks like it might just fit the gram 17 case quite nicely if the CPU mounting could be modded. It has a stronger/larger fan, larger fins and dual heat pipes.
     
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  2. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Btw.. for future buyers of the model. Below is the amount of heat paste that was originally present in my system, so a re-paste is the first thing to consider after getting the gram 17.
    What's really nice about the gram 17 is how easy it is to access all these components.

    orig heatpaste.JPG
     
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  3. msintle

    msintle Notebook Consultant

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    With all the configuration experiments I must admit the return window has already expired :/

    I'll just carry around the dock - I must again admit I have come to be able to work around the machine's limitations - it is flexible...
     
  4. hfm

    hfm Notebook Prophet

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    I posted the factory paste job in mine as well some posts ago. It wasn't great but it was a little better than yours.
    http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10885473

    Seems they are lacking a bit of consistency.

    I'm not too worried about the power draw of the fans, it can probably handle it. Were already talking about constantly running the CPU at a wattage that LG never planned on. It seems like it's designed to throttle to 15W or even less due to heat saturation based on the factory build scenario.
     
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  5. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Right. It is also designed to run about 20 seconds on a higher wattage for short burst turbo, so in my opinion the only issue that can crop up from running longer on these levels is overheating of some parts. Maybe I need to invest in a flir cam to find the hot spots. If we can get the fan to move more air at some point without additional holes in the chassis, we'll also get more cooling for these parts.
     
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  6. hfm

    hfm Notebook Prophet

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    I'm a little worried about the VRM phases, could probably just throw some small heat sinks on them or something. I'm pretty sure these are the chokes (they probably don't need cooling) and MOSFETs for the CPU and RAM VRM, might even be SSD VRM in there as well.
    There might be something hiding on the backside revealing some truth, but my gut says it's probably just 8GB of RAM back there. I could be way off tho.
    upload_2019-4-4_21-25-36.png
     
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  7. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Yes, I already added thermal pads to the chokes, so the heat can go to the heat spreader I attached to the base. There are two more similar chokes outside the pictured area. Once the CPU heat goes somewhere else, that should be enough cooling. I'm in an auction to get a flir one for cheap next week, if I win it, I'll certainly make pictures of the board under load and under charging to see what gets hot. The backside is a concern. I'm searching the webs to find the backside of this motherboard, but so far no luck. I'm not eager to pull it out. There's probably a higher chance of getting a picture of the gram15 2018 board which is the same and I've seen auctions on ebay, just not with backside pictures.

    Today my extra heat pipe did arrive. I installed it today and will let the glue cure overnight so tomorrow I'll be able to share some results hopefully.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2019
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  8. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Here's my result: The extra heat pipe does help, but it's not enough as the fan is just pathetic. I built in my extra 150*12*1 heat pipe on top of the original one using thermal grizzly kryonaut between the pipes and chinese thermal glue around them (+ some pressure while the glue was curing). I had to modify the fan a bit (remove a raised corner) so the straight new heat pipe would fit.

    fan dual pipe.JPG

    This is what it looked like after initial installation. I then added graphene tape on top of the fan and my extra fins as well as a 1 mm thermal pad to get to this end result:

    fan dual pipe graphene thermal pad.JPG

    Then I ran some tests and the results were mediocre. I went to bed a bit frustrated, but this morning as I tested again, things looked much better. I guess that thermal glue which inevitably mixed with the kryonaut needs its 24h to get solid.

    Now my machine reaches 1740cb in Cinebench R20 when limited to 25W. The CPU manages to stay at 3.3 GHz with only very little thermal throttling. At the end of a run, the CPU temp is 80 celsius and toward the end where some cores sometimes throttle the wattage is 23 W.. almost the 25 W I'd like to reach. In fact I'd like to reach maybe 30W somehow so I can limit to 25W and make sure my CPU never gets very hot. I'd love to be able to keep my CPU at 75 degree celsius.

    Afterwards I ran some tdp-unlimited tests and finally was able to reach the full 3.7 GHz/30W potential of the CPU. What it took was adding a 120mm fan blowing at the bottom of the laptop where lots of heat now gets dumped to thanks to the graphene heat spreaders and the thermal pads I installed. The best cb score I managed that way was 1896 cb... which I think is crazy considering the machine did just 1293 cb in stock configuration. Of course running at 30W would also half the battery runtime and maybe fry some internals in the long run.

    I believe it was possible to raise the multi-core turbo ratio to the same value as the single core turbo ratio on the matebook x pro somehow and maybe my cpu will at some point do 4.0 ghz on all cores. Unfortunately I don't remember how it was done, but it would be interesting just to see how far things can be taken.

    To take things further in any case I think the fan needs to be replaced. It's just too weak. I ordered this assembly (from a razer blade stealth 13.3) and I think I will be able to make it fit.. we'll see once it arrive and hopefully its fan will be stronger - the heat pipes for sure look much more beefy. Even better would be to have a much larger fan, but so far I haven't seen one that is flat enough.

    blade stealth.PNG

    Another area where things could be improved was fan control. The fan ramps up once 75 celsius is reached and that's just too late - I'd like it to run at full tilt at that point and start at the 60 mark or so. It's a shame LG does not give us better tools to control the thing.
     
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  9. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Oh and here's a bonus post. I found out by accident how to control the keyboard backlight via EC registers.

    It's EC register 0x72 and it takes three values:
    off: 0x80 low: 0xa2 high: 0xa4

    Maybe I'll use that in the future to code a little backlight timeout utility for those late night movie sessions. Right now the backlight just stays on forever which is ridiculous.

    Another thing I quite dislike is the trackpad enabled indicator. Why is it lit when the trackpad is on??? That's so terrible. I wish I could just get rid of it (maybe I'll put a sticker on it).
     
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  10. Pflugshaupt

    Pflugshaupt Notebook Consultant

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    Ok problem solved. It's easy to lift the keys from the side using a flat screwdriver. I lifted right right side of the F5 key to get this:

    F5 led.JPG
    Then I added some vinyl tape to the underside of the key to close the indicator gap and now it does look like this with the touchpad on:

    F5 modded.JPG
     
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