*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Discussion in 'MSI Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by Diversion, Oct 14, 2016.

  1. CuttingEdge_

    CuttingEdge_ Notebook Guru

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    Try static voltage. Start with 1.2 or 1.21V and if its not stable try to find stable voltage.
    Also change IA Core Domain AC/DC Loadline to 1 at BIOS for stable voltage ( thanks to @Falkentyne )
     
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  2. FrozenLord

    FrozenLord Notebook Consultant

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    Hey there,

    I wanted to contribute some ideas / validate some existing ideas.
    First and foremost: I bought my Tornado F5 (6700K, 1080 GTX, Samsung 960 Evo) 2nd hand and it had already had the bottom holes mod done.
    I specifially wanted to get a high powered laptop, because of the possibility to take it with me on business travels.
    However, I am not willing to lug around a cooling pad whereever I go, so all temperatures mentioned below are taken from the F5 being slightly raised (placed on small spacers, 2cm high, in each of the four corners), without using max fan speed and running in a hot room (about 28°C room temperature, due to the summer).
    My device showed quite high temperatures in HWInfo64 for the PCH (going up to mid 90s °C under load) and on the second temperature sensor of the Samsung Evo 960 (NVME SSD, reaching mid 110s °C while installing Windows updates and drivers!).
    Just for reference: the first sensor, which is seemingly monitoring the flash chips, showed mid 70s °C while the second one, seemingly monitoring the controller, showed those abnormally hot temperatures.

    Moving the SSD from one slot to the next achieved nothing temperature-wise.
    I had previously used a Samsung SM951, which is known to run quite hot as well, and had used a long copper shim (15x60x20 mm, cut to size by a workshop), isolating tape and some thermal pads to keep it cool.
    Yes, it looks ghetto but gets the job done and the material costs less than 6 Euros, i.e. way cheaper than any after market SSD cooler.
    But for the 960 Evo (and the lack of air movement inside the F5), this proved to be insufficient - the sensor number 2 would still register temperatures in the high 90s °C after continuous load.
    Adding further copper only delayed the high temperatures - basically soaking up the heat but was unable to dissipate that.
    What finally proved to solve the problem, was putting a thin layer of copper tape (adhesive on one side) to about half of the bottom cover.
    The SSD's makeshift copper cooler connects to the copper foil via a thick thermal pad (a quite compressible one) and that has finally reduced the maximum temperature of the second sensor to low 80s °C under continuous load.
    (Please keep in mind: all the temperature readings are based on normal use, e.g. installing applications or playing games - I did not run synthetic benchmarks, because why should I? To further increase thermal stress on overheating components?)
    Initial idea from *** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

    Secondly, my PCH was heating up quite a lot, reaching mid 90s °C after longer play sessions, which I consider unhealthy.
    After some consideration, I took apart my F5 and glued a small heatsink (Enzotech BCC9 Low Profile) on top of the PCH.
    However, I did not want to glue it to the mainboard or PCH itself, so I went with isolating tape around the PCH and glued the heatsink to the tape via high temperature silicone (leftover from delidding).
    Unfortunately, the heatsink itself was too tall, despite the low profile.
    I finally solved this by bending the spikes sideways, which resolved my hot PCH - reducing temperatures by about 15 °C under load (somewhat tricky to guess without using a controlled test scenario).
    PCH.jpg
    Initial idea from *** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

    So thank you very much for the inspiration / ideas!

    To summarize, I went from this (roughly 30 minutes of light browsing)
    Hot.png
    to this (about 45 minutes of light browsing)
    OK.png
    by adding a small heatsink on top of my PCH and taping copper foil on half of my bottom cover :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
    Skylake_, raz8020, hmscott and 2 others like this.
  3. Chuzzz

    Chuzzz Notebook Consultant

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    Did we know there's a better fan, PABD19735BM-N395 (original is PABD19735BM-N222), capable of 5500rpm (as reported by Silent Option)? My GPU fan died recently and I ordered one of these slightly different models without even realising. Temps seem to be about 5 degrees better, based on my crude observations playing Shadow Of War.
    I only see one other reference to it in this thread, someone replied that it's rated for 5000rpm but that the housing is different, and the discussion went nowhere after that...
     
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  4. hfm

    hfm Notebook Virtuoso

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    It's the same size and screw hole pattern?
     
  5. Chuzzz

    Chuzzz Notebook Consultant

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    Exactly the same. The only difference is purely cosmetic: the top half of the housing is grey/metallic, rather than matte black. Incidentally, this part was bent in transit for me so I just switched it with the same part from my faulty fan.

    I have found issues with speed control, though. The main one for people especially conscious of noise is that there is no speed <2000rpm. In Silent Option, 0% to 1% represents a change from 0rpm to ~2100rpm. It's fiddly but possible to then transition smoothly up to about 70%/4200rpm. 70%-95% is then a no-go zone. You'll want to go straight to 95%/5500rpm, otherwise, it will abruptly toggle between 4000rpm and 5500rpm every second or so (rather than maintaining a constant 5000rpm, for example), which doesn't sound at all healthy.

    I happened to buy two of them, and they both behave the same +-15%, and tested in both CPU and GPU slots.

    Noise is roughly equal to the originals at 2000-4000rpm, maybe slightly quieter, while 5500rpm is loud.
     
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  6. David Parushev

    David Parushev Notebook Enthusiast

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  7. Jarred Jameson

    Jarred Jameson Notebook Guru

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    Can someone help me regarding updating the bios. I wanted the bios update because I still have the old bios where the screen will turn really dark when the nvidia driver gets updated. I emailed Eurocom and got the bios update file and followed their instructions. But near the end of the instruction, I got an error:

    ROM file ROMID is not compatible with existing BIOS ROMID.

    I emailed them about it but only got an instruction to turn off secure boot which was already in the instruction they provided before and not pull the plug which is very obvious.

    update:
    Was able to use the /x command to skip the error but there was another error saying no memory allocated. Restarted my laptop and it is working. Hopefully there is no problems
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  8. Talon

    Talon Notebook Virtuoso

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    Excellent, lets get this 8700K mod done brother. Mind sharing the BIOS with me? I will flash mine. I think we can figure this 8700K/CFL mod out with some help from forums etc. I am willing to donate to those in the know to get it done for the community.
     
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  9. Falkentyne

    Falkentyne Notebook Prophet

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    Why are you guys even trying to do this?
    Even if you get the 8700K (or 8086K) to POST in the 16L13, the MSI Embedded Controller is going to kick that poor CPU's butthole and it's going to be throttling more than a strangled rag doll....
     
  10. Talon

    Talon Notebook Virtuoso

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    I dunno, an 8086K or 8700k binned can be tuned to pull around 97w at 4.3Ghz all cores. With around 4.0-4.2Ghz you can really undervolt the CPU and pull a lot less power and it will be fine while offering great multithreaded performance the 7700K can't touch.
     
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