Liquid Metal GS75 Stealth,

any one tried the liquid metal on a GS75 stealth ? any concerns or problems on the long run using LM on laptops ?!?... is it worth it ??...

thanks,

 

guys any one ?!?!

 

yes

 

can you share your results ?...

 

I haven't personally done it but here are some results from others;

https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops/comments/bjatj8/gs75_2080_liquid_metal_results/

Disassembly;



Note the inverted motherboard. I would proceed with caution, as usual.

 

92 to 75°C in prime 95 small fft

Gpu doesn't benefit much from liquid metal. A good paste will do. I recommend new mastergel maker (flat headed) , it works better than kryonaut and has better longevity too.

 

GPU DOES benifit from LM. My GL63 1660Ti with LM and .05 12.8 wmk Odyysey pads instead of factory paste runs anything and everything maxed out and never breaks 86* CPU 76* GPU. And thats with LM only. No undervolting and no fan tweaking, LM and pads instead of paste.
Until people start making stencils for the heatsink copper buttons, that match EXACTLY the dimensions of the CPU-GPU mobo dies they are going to have problems.99.9 percent of failures with LM are because of sloppy application or outright laziness and taking a short cut.
LM will cut the temps more than any paste. LM the CPU but Not the GPU? Like do you think that cutting the GPU temps as much as you can does not have an direct effect on the CPU temps?
Everythings in a BOX with heatsinks and fans trying to get it out.A 2-3 degree difference is major to overall internal temperatures.To suggest to LM a CPU and not the GPU "because it doesnt help much" is an outright stupid statement.

 

Compared to a high end paste that lasts far longer and is only 2-3 C hotter, its not worth the effort to redistribute LM every 3-6 months just to maintain 2-3C cooler gpu temps than a high end paste.

And if you don't maintain it, you'll have higher temps than paste so whats the point?

You probably don't get it as the 1660ti has a far smaller die than a 2080 so you might not get the pooling issue in just a few months. In that case LM on the gpu might be worth it.

 

I did a fair amount of research before making the move to LM. I havent seen a trend to a re coat every 3-6 months and there are 5-10 million people out there doing it. I assume you are talking from personal experiences.Pooling issue? When your heatsink is removed and there is a wet "pooled" area surrounded by a dried out area? That pool is from surface tension "sucking" to the point of separation when you remove the sink .The "dried out" area is usually the alloyed area from the Copper-gallium interaction.I would say your "pooling"" problems are caused by an uneven die-heatsink button interface and failing to use a stencil for exact die contact patch with precise matching edges on your heatsink button.Some understanding of Surface Tension also helps.If the two coated surfaces contact exactly when mated, surface tension will maintain an even coating across an uneven interface (to a point). If the LM is just smeared onto the heatsink button, a bang or jar will cause the LM to seep "Down" and out onto the smeared heatsink, air enters the interface causing reactions and drying and you have to re coat. Vivid imaginations and sloppy workmanship are the main reasons for "Fails".
As far as "Not getting It". Give your head a shake! Die size has nothing to do with it A larger die size would only provide more surface area to transfer heat to the sink.
Why would I LM the CPU and NOT the GPU? The CPU "wouldnt" need maintainance ??? AGAIN! A 2-3 degree drop on the GPU DOES make an increase in the OVERALL cooling and thats what its all about isnt it?
If you have a high current 2080 card you should be the one most interested in that 3 degree drop!