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Laptop monitor flickering

Discussion in 'Asus' started by D.A., Jan 14, 2008.

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  1. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    I've had this problem on and off for quite some time now. Sometimes the monitor start to flicker from what appears to be the backlight. Moving the lid with some pressure on top of it usually fixes the problem (sometimes you have to close the lid). The backlight for the entire screen flickers when this happens, always.

    I'd like to check the connector, but I cannot remove one of the screws holding the cover in place as it been tightened quite hard (I've only got one screwdriver which is too small to get a real grip of).

    After reading this thread, I think it's also possible it's an inverter problem?

    Any tips of what I should do?

    My laptop is an A6JC.
     
  2. maaron82773

    maaron82773 Notebook Guru

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    Hi D.A. First of all you will want to get that screw removed and reseat that LCD cable. I've definitely seen this correct some flicker problems. This will save you time, aggravation and money if it works. Of course there is a possibility that it could be an inverter problem but reseating would be the cheapest thing to try. If you have warranty you would want to contact you tech support of course. The fact that it will sometimes clears up when you move the screen tells me that it might possibly be the connection. So reseating might just do the trick. Hope this helps.
     
  3. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    If the entire screen flickers, it's a somewhat different problem than mine (the other thread).

    I also suggest reseating cables (inverter AND lcd) and seeing if that doesn't fix the problem. Maybe a different screwdriver is necessary.
     
  4. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    Okay, I'll try reseat the cables, but how the **** do I loosen the screws? I have only 2 screw drivers that are small enough to fit in the screw-head, and one of them has a chipped edge (= only usuable for loose screws). No matter how much force I use, the screws won't move.

    I may as well ask this too,

    Some of the keys on the keyboard get stuck when I press them down and I have to pry them up. I've removed the keys and cleaned them and the area beneath them, but it hasn't helped. What the heck do you need to do to stop the keys from getting stuck?
     
  5. Eleison

    Eleison Thanatos Eleison

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    For the keys, try pressing straight down (90 degree angle to the key) firmly to try to seat the key correctly. That helped with some of the keys that were popped off from one of my old systems.
     
  6. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    I suggest getting a new cross (+) small screwdriver with a magnetic head before moving on.

    As to the keys, if Eleison's fix doesn't work the key tabs/latches (which hold the keys in place) might be damaged in which case you might need a new keyboard. You can try removing the bad keys altogether, and also some good keys, and compare the state of the tabs.
     
  7. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    Got some screws loose, but not all, but I need some more information.

    I'd like to know where the cable is attached, both to the display and the other end, also I'd like to fasten the hinges a bit, but I don't know how to remove the plastic covers.

    Here's some images I took of how it is connected, any tips of how I should remove them?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    (the screw on the right in the 4th picture is the one I cannot remove, looks worse than it actually, due to how focus/flash/angle on the camera).

    For the keys, it appears as one of the rubber things that is used to push the key down doesn't revert once the key is released, thus making the key appear stuck. Any tips for this one? As I have it now the key is down at all times but there is no problem to get the key to respond to command, even small touches now has an effect, I can live with this, unless I can fix it completely.
     
  8. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    I think you should get a disassembly manual before going further...
     
  9. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    I haven't been able to remove any screws at all, so I'm unable to replug the connector for the display.

    I have tightened the screws that holds the inside cover for the display, and it now moves a lot less. I wasn't able to remove the cover though when I removed the screws, it would just snap back in as soon as I got a gap between the plastic pieces.

    Now when the monitor has been fastend better it seems like the flickering has been become less frequent, but it still exists (may be unrelated, as it has done this before without me doing anything).

    And the keyboard:
    I haven't been able to remove it from the computer, I've removed the 2 screws for it, but the plastic latches that holds the keyboard in place wont release. It appears as if I have to disassemble the entire computer to remove it.

    I've got 3 bad keys on the keyboard: F1, space bar and the down arrow. One of the latches for the F1 key is broken so I've glued the key on, at least it stays in place now.

    The last inch to the right of the space bar doesn't send a command unless you press really hard on it. The entire key moves down when pressed but it appears as the middle part of the key doesn't go down completely (= no command gets sent). This is quite annoying as I'm very likely to miss some spaces in the texts I'm writing.

    The down arrow's rubber-thing that I wrote about in my previous post is damaged. For the key somewhat good I've had to place another thing on top of it, this is making the key tougher to press and has a slow response.
     
  10. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    1. Monitor.

    I strongly suggest you do not continue until you get a disassembly manual with the exact procedure. These laptops have screws and connections in unintuitive places. You risk breaking the LCD bezel or the LCD itself in the process, if you do not have a manual.

    2. Keyboard.

    With that number of faults, I'd just order a new keyboard at the asus estore and install it myself.

    3. Keyboard removal.

    Those tabs/latches have to be pushed in until they go below the metallic keyboard plate. All of them have to be pushed in, and you might have to return because they have a tendency to snap back.

    It's best to use the corner of a credit card for this job. They SHOULD go in, provided that you removed the K> screws on the bottom of the notebook before moving on to the latches.

    Nevertheless, it's not a good idea to get a disassembly manual. Did you look on google / these forums for it?
     
  11. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    1. If such a manual exists for my computer, I can't find it. The only screws I fastend was the ones holding this piece in place: http://estore.asus.com/shop/imageview.asp?file=13GNFH5AP060.jpg

    2. I'd order a new keyboard if 1. they were available in swedish config (only keyboard that is available is out of stock) and 2. estore works for shipping to sweden.
     
  12. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    Yep, I forgot you weren't in the US (not that I am but most people here are :) )

    You can try your local ASUS reseller, they might be able to order the kbd for you. Or the ASUS service point in your country (give them a call and ask).

    IF it helps, here is how I removed my LCD bezel. I pried off the top edge first. There are 5 or 6 clamps holding it in place (I broke 2 but don't tell anyone :D). It's best if someone with longer nails does this, and they need to be taken in sequence. Once the clamps are out, you can slowly work your way down along the edges of the bezel. But that is my notebook, for yours it might be different.

    If you manage to do it, you have access to some more cables, and especially the inverter. Remind me: how does your screen flicker? Does it flicker all at once (backlight) or are there bands on it (LCD signal)? If the first, you're going to have to address the inverter cable, take them out, shake them a bit :) and put them back in. If that doesn;'t fix it, probably it's the inverter itself. It's a cheap part (up to 10 EUR), try getting it along with the keyboard.

    Otherwise (bands or other weird stuff) it's the LCD signal cable, depending on your particular type of notebook the socket on the LCD might be behind the screen so it might need to be removed from the LCD cover. Then you can try reseating it.

    Post back with anythign you find.
     
  13. D.A.

    D.A. Notebook Consultant

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    First to your question, yes the entire screen (the backlight) is flickering.

    I've tried removing the bezel again:

    I have only been able to release the top part of the bezel, I've tried the sides, but it feels like I'm going to break the clamps if I try harder. Any special tips on how to do it?

    Also before I started working on the display the hinges had well over an inch of free movement, and flickering quite a bit. Now I've tightend the screws below the monitor (those holding the bezel in place), and now the hinges has almost no free movement. Are these screws also a part of the hinges attachment?

    Since I tried this the last time I haven't seen the backlight flickering once. Before I started this topic it would usually flicker every time I turned the laptop on.

    I'm not sure I want to spend too much money on this computer as I'm not sure how long I'll keep it. I'm looking to find a new laptop sometime in the summer (though not sure), I'll wait till Vista SP1 released before I buy a new laptop anyway (tried it but performance wise XP was better).

    If I buy a new one I will probably check for a better series of ASUS notebooks, if I choose one of them.
     
  14. E.B.E.

    E.B.E. NBR Procrastinator

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    If entire backlight, you need an inverter and the inverter cable. That should take care of your problem. Together, they cost less than 20 EUR (if you can get them, that will be the problematic part).

    I don't have any tips... there might be clamps on the sides, or screws, or just some sticky patches where the bezel adheres to the screen, halfway along the edges. The later was my case in the M6BNe. But again, your case might be different. Try calling ASUS and getting a disassembly manual for your model.

    Yes, those screws are probably part of the hinge attachment.

    If it doesn't flicker, just let it be. But it might be a good thing to order the inverter and its cable in advance, so that you have them ready if it starts again.

    Like I said, not too much money, less than 20 EUR plus shipping.

    Better series: V, W, maybe U and S. Watch the battery life on the newer ASUS models, though.
     
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