HP Omen 17 2019 RTX 2080 VBios Modding (190W)

Discussion in 'HP' started by DaMafiaGamer, Oct 16, 2019.

  1. CedricFP

    CedricFP Notebook Evangelist

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    If you suspect you may have damaged your laptop, then selling it would be dishonest and unfair to the buyer unless you were clear upfront that you spilled LM onto the PCB.
     
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  2. blackfire12

    blackfire12 Notebook Enthusiast

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    You'll need to apply more than some gentle force. Actually, if you can get a small plastic spudger or pry bar in between the heatsink and PCB, that should help you lift it up and off the CPU/GPU dies. It's actually somewhat similar when getting the back cover off but not near as much force.
     
  3. RainbowRunner

    RainbowRunner Notebook Enthusiast

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    Start with the part of gpu heat spreader closest to battery, if that doesn’t work, prying there and the part of cpu heat spreader closest to the memory at the same time should do.
     
  4. ashknani

    ashknani Notebook Consultant

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    Im definitely not selling it , its works better than other laptop I have ever seen the weird thing is that im able to undervolt cpu core and cache to -.250 which is I believe unheard of and thats at 38x speed for all cores but the weird thing is to make it stable for that undervolt it has to be plugged in , otherwise I have to use -.150 undervolt which is really weird I dont get how does making the laptop plugged in helps stablizing the undervolt ! And im really happy with the laptop I havent seen it reach 70c yet oh and gpu still didnt reach 60c.
     
  5. ColinMacLaren

    ColinMacLaren Notebook Geek

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    I am afraid of damaging the laptop when doing the repaste.

    However, I don't understand why the CPU is overheating this much. GPU is fine and stays within the low 70ies even with the 190w bios.

    In High Performance mode the CPU will always reach 90-100°C and sometimes starts to throttle. This is with 16-17°C ambient temperature!
    Balanced mode is fine with CPU temp in the 80ies and Core Clocks of around 3.
     
  6. ColinMacLaren

    ColinMacLaren Notebook Geek

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    OK, I am going to try LM again. Are there any other screws to be removed then the ones I marked? Do I have to remove the fan covers?

    [​IMG]

    Edit: I used a squeegee to pry the heatsink loose. Boy, did they spill alot of thermal paste around. With Liquid Metal temps are down from 96°C in 3DMark FireStrike Physics to 74°C. No kidding.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2020
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  7. blackfire12

    blackfire12 Notebook Enthusiast

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    Just be careful with the LM and that you have it masked off well. I tried using 2 different types of LM and both didn't do anything for me as far as temps go. I made sure to apply it to the dies and to the heatsink so it would make good contact but the temps weren't anything impressive. Also, since they're copper heatsinks, there's a good chance the LM will get soaked up by the copper during the alloy process the gallium likes to start and you will need to apply more later on. So if your temps start creeping back up, that's the reason why.

    Actually the biggest drop in temps were to use the TG Kryonaut stuff with a downclock to the turbo ratio from 48 to 40. Now everything is extremely stable even with the 190w vbios.
     
  8. ColinMacLaren

    ColinMacLaren Notebook Geek

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    Yes, I masked them off with insulation tape und applied LM to both the heatsink and the die. It is working wonders for me.
     

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  9. tps3443

    tps3443 Notebook Deity

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    LM works great on just about any laptop. Just make sure the heatsink contacts the die directly, and there is no gap. You guys are outperforming my GTX1080 MXM 200 watt GPU. Power modding will do nothing for me. Most I can manage is 1,911Mhz for several hours in a game and this is only consuming about 140-150 watts of power. I am limited by temperatures. GTX10 series runs alot hotter, then RTX20 series.
     
  10. Burrick

    Burrick Notebook Enthusiast

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    This is great stuff and gives me something to look forward to, thanks DaMafiaGamer. Right now I've had the thing a month and I'm more worried about getting general heat under control. I put two ADATA XPG SX8100 2TB SSDs in this thing and they were smoking until I finagled the bracket over both drives with the heat spreaders on, I had to bend it a little to make contact. I'm still having low bench write issues with them.
    My biggest issue now is how to get this CPU under control. It will take a -0.150 mV undervolt and be stable, but it crashes while driving my Oculus. Out of the box with no XTU work, the spiking to 100 C is just ridiculous. Which LM did you use, and do you mind discussing the CPU repaste and your temp results now? I see you are getting about 95% in userbench, mine is about 84% in full meltdown mode. Undervolting improves the temperature but not the score on this, so the factory paste job seems fine for the GPU (never over 75) but grossly inadequate to the CPU.
     
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