***Gigabyte P34W v3 "Phantasus" owner's lounge***

Discussion in 'Gigabyte and Aorus' started by TheNightWolf, Mar 6, 2015.

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  1. Xss

    Xss Notebook Consultant

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    Hello!

    Sorry, might sound again as a stupid question: it's about doing a windows 10 clean install.

    1) I have been checking online a bit (mainly tutorials on youtube), and I am a bit lost...Most recommend to download the ISO file and then create a bootable USB with it: what's the difference between that and selecting the USB option on the media creation tool from Microsoft?

    2) I was planing on trying to install windows 10 on my W110er (clevo) first, to see how everything goes, and then on my P34W. Can I use the same bootable USB? I am hearing a lot of things about UEFI Bios and Legacy Bios (I think the P34W has an UEFI Bios...Whatever that means...), what if I install windows 10 on a machine with the wrong Bios, could I damage it?
     
  2. Mirar

    Mirar Notebook Enthusiast

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    I'm quite disappointed with the build quality of the P34W.

    Now the right hinge has gotten so stiff that I'm risking the plastic of the screen every time i close the lid. It's flexing up about an inch if I don't hold it together. I guess I could put the plastic pieces together again with epoxy, but I'm not sure if that's the solution here...

    Despite that I have severe heat issues. From just a few percent CPU usage the fans go wild and the laptop goes really hot. What's the consensus to do about that?
     
  3. vinny3

    vinny3 Notebook Consultant

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    Undervolt the CPU using Intel xtu, repaste using a high quality thermal paste, disable Windows defender, update the BIOS. Also, try to keep the laptop elevated off the ground.

    The thermal paste is the number 1 thing I would do.

    Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
     
  4. Mirar

    Mirar Notebook Enthusiast

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    I'll try the thermal paste first, then updating the BIOS. I'm running Linux (Mint) on it.

    Another funny thing: If the battery goes under ~65%, Linux and BIOS shuts down hard but Windows keeps running. (If I reboot at 40% from Windows, it shuts down hard in BIOS and doesn't come up again.) I guess a BIOS upgrade could work there too?
     
  5. Xss

    Xss Notebook Consultant

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    Ok, now that I have my W110er with windows 10 and a repaste, working perfectly (and could be used as an emergency laptop in case the P34W stops working ^^"), I'm ready to finally flash the Bios on the P34W.
    Only question though : what does the FB05/F006 offers in terms of temperatures over the FB04/F002 (my current bios)? I couldn't really find any information about this, appart from "the fan functions".
    I remember I updated to smart manager 5.2.4 some months ago, which gave me very limited fan control: the laptop was controlling the fans speed itself, and wasn't doing a very good job at it.
    I rolled back to version 4.4.7 which I find way superior, since I can set the fans to max settings anytime I want (aka, as soon as I start playing : I have lower temperatures thanks to that). I would hate it if the new Bios breaks that.
    Any info about that FB05 bios?
     
  6. steveoz

    steveoz Notebook Enthusiast

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    No thermal issues here, after moding, 4.5 hours of Division on Ultra my CPU and GPU averages 80 degrees.

    Stock is terrible though, peaks of 97 and it tries to melt itself!
     
  7. steveoz

    steveoz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Seem to have lost my old account so have re-registered.

    Anyway, the cooling on the P34w is atrocious, the only way to ensure it cools is to keep it free of dust, do a repaste, undervolt, underclock and mod the vents.

    I've tried many combinations on mine and some were successful, some weren't.

    As these are now a year old, the first thing is to take the cover off and blow out with a compressor or compressed air any dirt and dust, then manually remove any embedded crud on the fans or other areas with Q-tips.

    Once that's done, take the ridiculously fragile cooler off, clean up and re-apply a half decent thermal paste. I've noticed no difference between Gelid Extreme or IC essential. -2-4deg

    The next thing is to use XTU to undervolt the core offset to -50mv - you don't need any more, any further and irrespective of stress test or benching you will get lockups in extended combined CPU and GPU stress in long gaming sessions. - 2-4 deg

    Underclock it, run the multi on x4 cores at 28. It has zero performance hit on even quite CPU hungry games like The Division, but will knock 5 or more degrees off.

    Cut out the ****ty vents at the bottom of the fans - 10-15 deg.

    Use a laptop cooler - the fans won't lower your temperatures because of the cooling design, but keeping it on a vented flat surface will.

    Even with the undervolt, underclock, repaste and clean out, in the Division my CPU was still hitting 92, infact, it pretty much stayed low 90's (stock settings it would constantly thermal throttle). It wouldn't hit thermal throttle, but after an hour or so of cooking all the components around the CPU and board at 92 degrees I would get an orange screen of death. Same with Rise of the Tomb Raider.

    With the ****ty vents cut out I now average 80 degrees on CPU, with absolute peaks of 86 (then the fan ramps up and down it goes back to 79-80 then the fan slows). The laptop is much quieter, doesn't work as hard to cool and I can actually FEEL the hot air being pumped out the back.

    I played 4 hrs 15 mins of The Division last night on ultra, no lock ups, no resets or crashes, and CPU and GPU sitting around a health 80 deg. I also knocked the multi back up to 3.4 on four cores and ran 3d mark. Before I was hitting thermal throttle, now, mid 80's at absolute most on CPU. Before it would try to melt itself and peak as high as 97.

    I thought their cooling solution was terrible and too small. But it seems the cooling solution is good, just the design of the case ventilation is terrible. How they QA'd them and let them come out of the door like that I don't know, essentially in stock form they are a ticking time bomb, with some mods though they can see acceptable temp levels.
     
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  8. Xss

    Xss Notebook Consultant

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    I think I might go and cut down those vents as well, but I'm not a very good DIY person ^^ May I ask how you did it?
     
  9. steveoz

    steveoz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Sure I went out to the garage and used a hole saw.

    I think it was 35mm, secured the bottom part of the case to a block of wood with clamps, then gently buzzed the drill up to speed and carefully and slowly went into the cover until I was through to wood. Sanded the small lip off that was left by rubbing paper round the inside of the hole and picking off and plastic edges with an old plastic bank card, then filed down the little tabs on the inside of the cover so I could cut and fit some mesh (from an old JBL car speaker grill). I used small strips of double sided sticky tape to stick the mesh. When I stuck the mesh I rolled up the excess sticky tape over the spiky edges of the mesh to make it safer and stick better.

    Looks kinda OE I think and on my machine made the biggest difference of all the things I tried.
     
  10. steveoz

    steveoz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Some pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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