Fully Internal Watercooled SLI system DIY project

Discussion in 'Notebook Cosmetic Modifications and Custom Builds' started by bennyg, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. yosv211

    yosv211 Notebook Consultant

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    wow I would never have the balls to set up something like this. Well I dont have the knowledge or equipment in the 1st place.
     
  2. VoodooBane

    VoodooBane Notebook Consultant

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    Nice man! looking sexy!
    I hope someone would do a Hybrid cooling mod somehow, probably in the future. When pumps are smaller.
     
  3. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    About time I posted an update and some pics since this has been working pretty much flawlessly for months now.

    Not a huge amount of stressful game loads to test it as I've been letting my son use it and he has been enjoying mainly Terraria, but a bit of Doom and Kerbal have put it through its paces. Unfortunately the ancient drivers needed for the bodgy vortex 1070s keep this from being more than a proof of concept.

    But one time when the lady of the house was interstate at a seminar the pair of us played through Doom 1 and 2 (gzdoom / brutal doom) downstairs, I took my portable cooling station built off a 240mm rad, tiny DC-LT pump and res, and 12V power supply, hooked it up to both our laptops, and it was working fantastically. Very quiet setup.

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    Bottom plate fits on... almost, there's a couple of bulges. Not super happy with how far the connections protrude out the back but at least they are not fixed (like they were in previous versions) so are less vulnerable to being knocked and breaking something.
    The tubing is 8mm OD / 6mm ID (1mm thick) silicone. It's a little loose over the 6mm copper tube for my liking so I found smothering epoxy then putting the tube on would give a great fit, and the epoxy wouldn't stick to the silicone. From there the dual cable ties (added after that pic above) would act like hose clamps for better sealing. The tubes are fixed in place pretty hard, they are not moveable by hand at all.

    Visible on the bottom left are the two white dip switches, one toggles between 5V and whatever the boost converter is set to (the pump is rated for 6-12V but gets too noisy, so currently is at about 8V) which is adjustable by the tiny screw on the blue potentiometer housing, and the other switch toggles between internal (from +5VDC and ground of motherboard ODD SATA port) and external (1mm 3 pin poking through the same hole as the potentiometer). The battery hides these when in place. This system is fully functional and useable on battery power alone.

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    At a more "sane" 4.2ghz, a 1.2ghz OC over base 3940xm clock.

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    Long term CPU load @ 4.6ghz. I had never burst run that high ever.
    Interesting to note the other CPU on the aircooled heatsink would report over 90W consumption during x264 at only 4.5ghz. Before it overheated and started throttling. (Here, ~78W at 4.6)
    This was with the pump on high speed. At low speed it was a few degrees hotter.

    Basically, 4.6ghz on the CPU long term stable under 90C, way better than aircooling could ever achieve, and because the cooling is distributed across 5 fans it could run that load at low fan speeds if I had more versatile fan control software (i.e. if Obsidian Fan Control worked)

    GPUs run their load at 61C+71C where stock was 79C/86C from memory. With the external line hooked up they can run at 200W long term stable in the 60s at low noise levels. Clearly having the 2nd line running around the edge of the heatsink is more than good enough. Just as it was on my original hybrid setup.

    [​IMG]
    Idling (if that's what you can call it with the behind the scenes Win10 crap being constantly active) in 16C ambient.

    [​IMG]
    Kombusting at 100W each GPU on the older GPU2 heatsink. Those dips in GPU utilisation started after about 20mins and could have been a VRM thermal throttle as the heatsink would actually get pretty warm, but I couldn't see a fps dip that corresponded. So I redid the heatsink flattening the tube more and adding more solder for contact between the pipe and the aluminium and it seemed to help. Were I interested in improving it (!!) I would grind a path into the aluminium for the tube so the actual cooling was much closer to the VRMs.


    I'm amazed at how my home made GPU waterblocks actually turned out. I wish I took more pics during building them but basically I cut and soldered the 6mm copper tube together, then ground one side off to expose the inside, then soldered that (with low temp solder so the tube structure didnt fall apart) to the plate from the disassembled stock heatsinks. I used desolder braid (fine copper mesh) to strengthen and gap fill where required.

    The system does need a bit of topping of a few mLs every couple of weeks. I think the silicone tubing might be a bit permeable as I have never seen any leaks or dried residue anywhere.
     
  4. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    FYI the WC setup adds about 500-600g weight all up, loses one 2.5" drive bay and the optical drive bay (oh no).
    Left: WC setup, mSATA SSD + 2.5" SSD ~4.6kg
    Right: stock P370EM, single GPU, mSATA SSD + 2.5" spinner hard drive, BRDVD drive in ODD, ~4.0kg

    [​IMG]
     
  5. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    I have recently finished servicing this after it sat for a few months, very much unloved ...

    Don't leave tap water in a loop for any amount of time, my stupidity, lesson learned. It turned a shade of orangey brown tat required a lot of flushing with vinegar to remove the gunk, the pump got fouled, that needed a thorough disassembly and clean as well.

    It now runs with a single 980M (from a P870DMG) on stock Prema vBIOS because I'm sick of the driver BS, I have set this up for my son to use until it dies. It should handle Terraria, Kerbal, office 365 until that happens.

    CPU is set at 4.2ghz on a slight overvolt (+15mV, sits on 1.26V load) and sits on around 80C, even under sustained load, I have the fan curves set low because the one GPU is laughed at by this setup that would cool >300W.

    GPU gets the infamous 3-FET 980M blackscreen after about a minute of Kombustor at stock... the water line is too far from the VRMs and the aluminium part of the heatsink just heats up too quickly. I thought something was wrong until I checked HWinfo and it's drawing over 180W... not too concerned since it won't get anywhere near there in normal use. So I have a temp limit on the core of 75C to prevent this, should be rock solid.

    This model was released over 8 years ago now. It's user is only a year older haha.
     
    Rei Fukai, triturbo and alexhawker like this.
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