Fully Internal Watercooled SLI system DIY project

Discussion in 'Notebook Cosmetic Modifications and Custom Builds' started by bennyg, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    The two added radiators are installed and working.
    (though intakes are not yet cut through the bottom for either of the added fans, a few more case mods to go)

    Disconnecting the pump during POST is required for now, reconnecting straight after has no problems. I may add a teeny DIP switch for that in the meantime. Might get a double and have a speed selector as well - either bypass the boost converter for 5V, or through it for a higher voltage (up to 12V but it's really noisy higher)

    The two fans running off each fan port seems to be working fine. The yellow (sense) line is only routed to the original GPU fans. The secondary fan on each line has the DC +V (red) and ground (black) lines connected in parallel, and that's all that's needed since speed control is through variable DC voltage in these old Clevos.

    I haven't checked for voltage drop under load.

    10 minutes of Kombustor at 115W per GPU
    Loop temp approx 45C which is acceptable, right in the target range.
    Maximum GPU load temp 65C
    Maximum CPU load temp was 70C (this is 63W running TSBench - on the stock fan curve I have set up, if on max fans it would be in the 50s)
    (eagle eyes may notice the 85C max on the Afterburner graph but that was when I disconnected the pump for a few seconds to see how quick temperature rises without flow - quickly at approx 5C/second...)

    For comparison, the stock heatsinks would reach ~80C on the CPU with liquid metal, and 79C/86C on the GPUs at 115W each.

    I redid the GPU2 VRM/memory heatsink with a different output direction and flattened the bottom of the copper tube more and used more solder, it seems to not feel quite as burning hot to the touch now. I think when I add the external lines I'll do the same with the GPU1 heatsink.

    Screenshot (11).png
    The dips in usage/power in the last couple of minutes were not causing dips in FPS reported in kombustor.

    This is what it currently looks like:
    190509-IMG_20190509_012253 (Large).jpg I'm not happy with the 90 degree join near GPU2, but I stuffed up with the available clearance against the bottom plate (I wanted it closer to the corner of the battery bay but there's less clearance there and that ridge where the bluetooth addon module would sit looks rather... structural, so I want to avoid cutting it.) It still allows RAM to fit in the slots if I ever put more in.
    There's a couple of other places where things don't quite fit yet, the housing for the fan on the lower right needs to be shaved as it's pushing right up against the frame on the top and bottom and that moves the vertical piece of frame where the HDD bay cover latches into. There's still actually a 2.5" SSD under that fan which is why it's rather crowded - airflow through that fan isn't the best since the copper tube is routed through the inside of the housing, and the case still blocks half of the radiator output (not shown) but it works.
    The exposed wiring with 3 pin connector is of course so the pump can be disconnected for booting.

    Here's whats crammed inside where the ODD bay used to be (lower left on the above pic):
    190509-IMG_20190509_013105 (Large).jpg
    There's a screw cap on the top left for filling/draining. the potentiometer screw from the boost converter is poking through where the ODD bay used to be anchored to the frame so it can be changed through the battery bay.
    I have a wad of foam that I have sitting on top of the pump for some vibration damping (it sits right underneath where your right palm would), you can see I even had to shave down the sides for it to fit without bowing the wrist-rest part.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2019
  2. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    I was part way through cutting some holes in the case for the fan intake and pump control switches and - at nearly 3mm thick - I realised the base layer of plastic alone is about half the total thickness of some of the modern ultralight things these days haha



    [​IMG]
     
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  3. bennyg

    bennyg Notebook Virtuoso

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    Behold, my wiring

    Circuit diagram.png

    Two selector switches.
    One for source, either
    - From the 3-pin source that will be exposed in the battery bay area, from an external power supply, so the loop can be filled and bled with the battery out and the laptop powered off (and in case there's a spill, avoiding letting out all the magic smoke!!), and for avoiding the EC panic on POST)
    - or through the slimline SATA port when on

    and another switch to either bypass the boost converter and deliver 5V (quieter), or go through it for a faster speed (used for bleeding, and maximal performance)

    The hot glue is there to isolate the connections because they'll all be crammed in spaghetti style close together, and also to reinforce it as these super thin wire loves to break when bent...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019 at 10:32 AM
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  4. TheReciever

    TheReciever D! For Dragon!

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    Wish I had the balls to do this on my Ranger, would surely benefit immensely from water cooling

    Love the work so far, thanks for sharing!
     
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