Discussion in 'Hardware Components and Aftermarket Upgrades' started by Falkentyne, May 21, 2018.
I have not tried it yet. I decided not to go the liquid metal route for now.
OK. Next time I have to take apart the P870DM-G for something I will go get some and try it. I saw they had some at TrueValue Hardware that is already thin and labeled something like "low density for tiny gaps" and that might work nice. If it does, having one side self-adhesive would be good.
Mr. Fox, sorry for the late reply. I wanted to let you know that the foam window seal doesn't work well for LM dam. It's not compressible enough. I ended up picking up this much softer A/C foam weather stripping and it works wonderfully. I cut it cross-section using a pair of Cutco Super Shears scissors and an X-Acto knife, then used the scissors to carve out the middle and trim it further down to about 3mm. Couldn't get it any thinner because the foam would break apart, but it compresses very easily so I don't think it matters at that point.
For the CPU, I placed the dam on the IHS retention bracket. For the GPU, I sealed off around the die using nail polish and Super 33+ electrical tape, then placed the foam on top of that.
I actually forgot to secure the dams using nail polish under the corners as @Falkentyne had suggested . Hope they didn't move when I put the heatsink back.
Awesome. Thanks for the update. If your temps are good, don't worry about if the foam GPU dam moved a little. If it moved too much and ended up sandwiched in the wrong spot it would cause contact interference and you won't be seeing good GPU temps.
Yup, I got an 8C drop on the GPU after applying Conductonaut on it and doubling up on the paper clips under the retention arms. I also got a 5C drop on the CPU using your shim between the IHS and heatsink sandwiched with Conductonaut. Before LMing everything I was using Prolimatech PK-3 thermal paste. I also flattened out the heat plates and pipes using my hands and a wedge as best I could.
Something interesting I learned is that if a copper surface is too smooth, as was the case with my heatsink and the shim, it's LM-phobic and any attempt to spread the LM just moves the entire ball around. I had to use the gray scouring pad from the CLU package to buff the copper slightly in order for the Conductonaut to spread.
Off-topic, but I found an upgraded version of my heatsink, which is less "unified" than the stock heatsink and has more heatpipes running over the GPU core:
Spoiler: stock vs. upgraded
I'm hoping this drops my GPU temps even further, since the GTX 1080 in this unit runs closer to its thermal limits than the CPU does.
(Again sorry for the O/T)
@Mr. Fox or anyone else who knows, is the retention bracket on a desktop CPU socket made of aluminum?
LM on the IHS being so close to it makes me a little worried. When I install my new heatsink, I think I'm gonna cover the retention bracket with Kapton tape.
That's a very good question.
I always thought they were made of steel. But knowing how everyone cuts corners these days...that being said, on desktops, you should only use LM between CPU core and IHS anyway.
They are made of steel. You can confirm that with a magnet. I have never seen one made of aluminum. I always bridge the air space between the IHS and retention bracket with Kapton tape anyway. Not to protect the bracket, but to have no place for stray liquid metal to go down toward the socket. With the foam dam and Kapton tape it is totally encapsulated, so it does not matter if a bead or drop drips off the side of the IHS.
I think he is referring to his laptop with a desktop CPU, and not a desktop. It make perfect sense to use liquid metal on both sides of the IHS in a laptop due to their chintzy little heat sinks and wimpy fans.
Thanks for the info, guys. Really appreciate it. Puts my mind at ease now knowing that it's steel.
@Mr. Fox good observation about the magnet, and I will follow your suggestion of the Kapton tape bridge for next time.
@Falkentyne Mr. Fox is right, this is the laptop in my sig. I'm using a 0.5mm copper shim between the IHS and HS with Conductonaut on both sides, and that netted me a 5C drop compared to normal paste with no shim.
It's definitely steel - aluminum doesn't have the 'springiness' to perform this function (I'm an engineer and work in a metal shop).
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