Disassembling a CF-28

Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by kd4e, Sep 18, 2010.

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  1. kd4e

    kd4e Notebook Consultant

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    I am having some trouble with the early steps in disassembling my CF-28 and want to ask before I break something!

    I have removed the 4 screws at the top edge and the two on the rear of the hinge covers.

    When I try to remove that cover piece (which covers the hinges and the top mounting edge of the keyboard) it does not want to pry loose.

    I have two knives slipped into either side and have tried to gently pry at the hinge covers and the front edge of the cover piece - between letters - using a small flat screwdriver and it is very resistant.

    Do I really need to apply more pressure or are there additional screws somewhere on the CF-28 that still need to be removed, please?

    Thanks!
     
  2. mnementh

    mnementh Crusty Ol' TinkerDwagon

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    If you have a Mk2/Mk3, there are two more screws in the hinge cover hidden under the rear port cover; a total of 8.

    mnem
    8 is enough.
     
  3. kd4e

    kd4e Notebook Consultant

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    That was it ... thanks!

    And is there another MKII trick to the keyboard?

    It is also resistant to removal ...
     
  4. gray-beard

    gray-beard Notebook Evangelist

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    If you are taking the screen off,,,TAKE THE BATTERY OUT FIRST!!!

    Bob
     
  5. mnementh

    mnementh Crusty Ol' TinkerDwagon

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    It was glued down with with a strip of double-faced tape on mine; it was in a line vertically right about the axis of the V and 5 keys.

    Be patient, be careful; it is very easy to warp the tarhooties out of your keyboard fighting that tape. The ribbon connector exits at the bottom edge under the right Alt key; make sure you keep it in mind when you're working the KB loose.

    Oh, yeah - WHAT BOB SED. Too.

    mnem
    Tarh00ters. Heh.
     
  6. kd4e

    kd4e Notebook Consultant

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    Battery, HDD, RAM all pulled before the first screw was removed ... but thanks for the reminder!

    Got the keyboard up - should have remembered that - must be that it's lunch time ... and that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
     
  7. kd4e

    kd4e Notebook Consultant

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    OK, I have drilled-down to the USB connector ... now what?

    It appears that our little guy forced the connector into the socket the opposite it was supposed to go -- so he pushed the contact wires out of the way.

    It is hard to figure out what they are supposed to look like and even if pushed back into place if they will stay in place -- sure is not a very robust connector at all -- not to overall Toughbook standards!

    Anyone fixed one of these?

    Do you replace that whole connector assembly or swap-out the mobo or what?
     
  8. Shawn

    Shawn Crackpot Search Ninja and Options Whore

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    I would just replace the connector. They are cheap, free if you snag one from some old device you have laying around. I figure it's worth a try anyway. If it doesn't go well, you are only out a couple of dollars for the connector. Then go for a motherboard swap as plan B.
     
  9. Doobi

    Doobi ToughBook DeityInTraining

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    Im confused here. Your OP spoke of just disassembling the 28, but you are now referring to some connector. What exactly are you trying to do, and can you post some pics before you go any further.
     
  10. mnementh

    mnementh Crusty Ol' TinkerDwagon

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    kd4e -

    The connector pins are supposed to be shrouded by a bit of plastic; if they are bent out of the way, it means that plastic is broken. It needs to be replaced.

    The USB Connector on a CF-28 is an odd beast; it's not going to be easily glommed from some old USB hub as it's designed in a vertical orientation, not horizontal. About the only place you could likely get a replacement is from a CF-28 or CF-29 MB (They both use the same part) and if you're going that route, you may as well save the arse-ache and just get a good MB. It is VERY hard to get the port out without damaging the port or the MB; usually, you damage the MB you want to save AND the Port you want to use.

    I'm not saying it can't be done; it can; but not a job for the faint-hearted. I'd DEFINITELY call it a Dilbert-level (as in, you'd better BE Dilbert) repair.

    mnem
    Evolving.
     
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