[CPU + GPU Temperatures + Benchmarks] - XPS 15 [9560] Kaby Lake

Discussion in 'Dell XPS and Studio XPS' started by iunlock, Mar 10, 2017.

?

Which configuration do you have? (Select 3x)

  1. i7-7700HQ

    89.8%
  2. i5-7300HQ

    9.3%
  3. i3-7100H

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. 4K UHD

    52.5%
  5. 1080p FHD

    32.2%
  6. 56WHr

    11.9%
  7. 97WHr

    71.2%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. MrBuzzkill

    MrBuzzkill Notebook Consultant

    Reputations:
    31
    Messages:
    166
    Likes Received:
    97
    Trophy Points:
    41
    Well, undervolting is the best way to lower temperatures. On average, my temps drop by about 1C per 10mv undervolt. And by comparison, my CPU (7700HQ) is always below 0.95v even when fully under load, while your is still at 1.032v, which is still a pretty high voltage and will be a large source of heat. It's weird that you can only undervolt by 120mv though, most 6700HQs can get 150mv+.

    I am sadly no expert on liquid metal, so I cannot give you advice on whether this is a good appliance. The best guess I can give you is that it seems like it is too much liquid metal, especially if you compare it to images on Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=liq...UIDygC&biw=2197&bih=1092#imgrc=Xo4QMTATf1AA_M:

    Also, I believe there is a BIOS hack somewhere here on the forums that allows you to undervolt the dGPU in the 9550. That should further help with managing temps.

    However, it may just be possible that you have especially bad binned versions of your chips and this is simply the max attainable.
     
  2. lkyaugustine

    lkyaugustine Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    oh thanks for the feedback!

    hmmm yea, I may have been getting bad binned versions. Unfortunately, I swapped out 3 motherboards and all 3 produces around the same amount of undervolt. I killed 2 previously in 2 years and 6 months and swapped them out thanks to Dell warranty.

    I need to perfect the liquid metal application on my own.

    I will also dig into the forum to undervolt the GPU, thanks!
     
  3. _sem_

    _sem_ Notebook Deity

    Reputations:
    78
    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    76
    > Some of it actually spilled out a little on to the electrical tape, hence I think I may have put too much Liquid Metal.

    Maybe indeed.
    I guess you could check if your heatsink is aligned perfectly and the gap between it and the chips is as thin as possible all over, with as much metal-to-metal contact as possible.
    You can try this by applying tiny dots of regular paste near all chip cornes, attach and then remove the heatsink, see if all dots spread nicely.

    But your measurements don't show thermal nor power limit throttling throttling. And I don't think these temperatures are problematic. Do you have any performance issue?
    Have you padded the VRMs?
     
  4. custom90gt

    custom90gt Doc Mod Super Moderator

    Reputations:
    6,807
    Messages:
    3,057
    Likes Received:
    3,197
    Trophy Points:
    331
    I hope you're not killing these motherboards with liquid metal and then getting them repaired under warranty...
     
  5. lkyaugustine

    lkyaugustine Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Reply to _sem_

    I haven't tried it, I will go try it and then let you know! But I do know what for the previous few heatsinks they sent over, some came warped or they had too much distance between the silicon die and the heatsink. But this current one that I have, I applied some amount of pressure on them before closing the lid of my laptop so that the contact between the silicon die and the heatsink is better.

    Yes, I have padded the VRMs, I want to replicate iunlock's mod for the 5510/9550, but then the capacitors in between the VRMs, and the capacitors are taller than the VRMs, hence it makes me scared about putting heatsinks on the VRMs cus I don't wanna fry the motherboard with heatsinks.

    Reply to custom90gt

    I didn't apply any liquid metal to the previous motherboards that I had. I only started trying out liquid metal with this motherboard that Dell had sent over to me for replacement.
    I killed the previous few motherboards because of high intensive CPU + GPU usage for over too long periods. And since heat kills chips due to electromigration and other sort of phenomenon under normal usage, hence I decided to liquid metal the CPU and GPU on this new motherboard.

    EDIT: I only gotten this new motherboard 3 weeks ago, and bought the liquid metal syringes about a week back. And because I wasn't getting the temps that you guys were getting, that's why I came to this forum. Also I watched LinusTechTips (he made a mistake? He was supposed to use the smaller metal needle-like thing that came with the Conductonaut, not the black plastic thing used to suck up liquid metal in the event too much came out, but I think he corrected it??) and a few other channel on how to liquid metal a laptop.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
  6. _sem_

    _sem_ Notebook Deity

    Reputations:
    78
    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    76
    > But I do know what for the previous few heatsinks they sent over, some came warped or they had too much distance between the silicon die and the heatsink. But this current one that I have, I applied some amount of pressure on them before closing the lid of my laptop so that the contact between the silicon die and the heatsink is better.

    Also mind VRAM pad thickness.

    > hence it makes me scared about putting heatsinks on the VRMs cus I don't wanna fry the motherboard with heatsinks.

    But you do play with LM, hehe.
    Mind spilt LM is "corrosive" (gallium migrates into other metals, makes some like Al brittle).
    I guess taking care of the VRM heat is more important in XPS 15 with high loads than LM. The CPU and GPU don't die at these temperatures. But under load the heat tends to accumulate in the VRM area.
    http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...thermal-insanity-as-seen-through-flir.826949/
    Have you uninstalled Intel DPTF? Unfortunately, XPS 15 isn't meant to run without the throttling.
     
  7. lkyaugustine

    lkyaugustine Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Regarding the VRAM thermal pads, I changed it out for squishier thermal pads of 0.5mm
    I had actually padded the Voltage Regulator Modules with Fujipoly 11.0 W/mK Thermal Pads
    But anyway I still hit Power Limit Throttling, after about 5 minutes of stressing, the screenshot I took is before the laptop hit Power Limit Throttling. Padding the VRMs will result me in 84 celsius in the VRM area when both CPU and GPU are stressed at the same time.

    I know Liquid Metal reacts with Aluminum, Copper and even Nickel. However, Liquid Metal reacts slower with Nickel and Copper.
    With regards to Liquid Metal and Copper:
    The higher the temperature, the more kinetic energy the molecules of the liquid metal has, will result in more frequent higher energy collision between the liquid metal and copper and hence, the reaction we see after applying liquid metal. But even then it will take probably at least 6 months to see the newly formed copper-gallium alloy and the new alloy wouldn't affect thermal conductivity too much.

    I have Intel DPTF installed. Unfortunately, I live in a tropical location with temperatures averaging 25 celsius to 37 celsius on certain days. So I am quite afraid to uninstall DPTF as I have read that it could potentially bust the hardware of the laptop if it overheats especially with the Precision 5510 / XPS 9550. But I will take a shot at it.

    With regards to applying tiny dots of regular paste to the heatsink and then putting it back, the paste spread out pretty evenly.
     
  8. _sem_

    _sem_ Notebook Deity

    Reputations:
    78
    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    76
    > I had actually padded the Voltage Regulator Modules with Fujipoly 11.0 W/mK Thermal Pads
    But anyway I still hit Power Limit Throttling, after about 5 minutes of stressing, the screenshot I took is before the laptop hit Power Limit Throttling.

    It has been reported before that hi-grade pads for the VRM mosfets
    - still don't take away enough heat (this could likely be worked around using metal heat conductors, best pads conduct heat 1-2 orders of magnitude worse)
    - tend to make things even worse in the long run unless using a vented cooler plate, because the backplate heats up, in turn intake air heats up... Even with a vented cooler plate it may be tricky to remove heat fast enough.
    Hence iunlock adds internal "fin surface" for the VRMs and redirects some cooling air over there, to take the VRM heat out via convection.
    Laptops with more elaborate cooling tend to have heat-spreaders covering the VRM mosfets, or even extra heatpipes for them. So their heat exits via the cooling fins. There were ideas for beefed-up heat sinks for the XPS 15 at dell reddit, but no well-documented success story so far.

    > With regards to Liquid Metal and Copper: ...
    I hear Cu heatsinks are not problematic, except that staining is visible, so warranty may be denied.
    CLU users reported performance degradation and LM solidification after some months of use, probably because gallium migrates into copper and the galinstan alloy in the gap is no longer at the right percentages.
    Other metals might get affected adversely due to spills.

    > So I am quite afraid to uninstall DPTF as I have read that it could potentially bust the hardware of the laptop if it overheats especially with the Precision 5510 / XPS 9550. But I will take a shot at it.
    Don't, considering you've fried mobos before ;)

    > With regards to applying tiny dots of regular paste to the heatsink and then putting it back, the paste spread out pretty evenly.
    I think that if the gap is as thin as possible, LM doesn't make so much difference. Except if you're at the very edge of direct thermal throttling at the CPU/GPU, which doesn't seem to be your case. Think about the heat flux from the heat sources towards the ambient, not just temperatures. You must get the heat flow out of the laptop a bit better, while not hitting the undisclosed throttling temperatures anywhere.
     
  9. lkyaugustine

    lkyaugustine Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    I recently bought heatsink fins similar to what iunlock had, but however because of the capacitors that are taller and are in between the voltage regulator modules, are there

    1) any other methods that I can use to dissipate the heat?
    2) smaller heatsink fins that I could install such that I don't short the capacitors on the motherboard. I don't want to see my motherboard dead because sparks flew or because of heat.

    I know which Voltage Regulators to put heatsinks on, I just don't know how to go about doing it because of protruding capacitors.

    I recently read from iunlock that stacking thermal pads is a bad way to conduct heat away. Which was why I was initially against the idea of padding the VRMs, and then I went to buy same exact heatsinks that iunlock used in his guide (can be found here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1515) but then i realised that the capacitors and the heatsink fins were in contact (while the laptop was still turned off, grounded, no power supply connected), then I thought to myself, maybe I should remove the heatsinks, just in case something goes wrong.

    1 possibility to prevent it from shorting would be to spray the side of the motherboard with the VRMs a layer of clear enamel nail polish, just like what I did on the GPU capacitors before liquid metalling my system. What do you think about the nail polish method?

    or if i can find an alternative heatsink fin to the ones he used in his guide, those that are way way smaller.

    Thanks so much for all the info and guidance!!
     
  10. Seyyed hasan

    Seyyed hasan Notebook Guru

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    62
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Hi. Sry I don't know where I can ask my question. I buy aw 17 r1 and change bios over clocking and now the laptop show black screen. What can I do ? I open the case cover and pull up CMOS battery and laptop battery and push them again , but nothing happens and black screen come again. Unfortunately the ram is on slot 1 or 2 not 3 or 4. How can I reset bios without dissemble PALM rest?plz help me I just bought it yesterday. Plzzzzz
     
Loading...
Similar Threads - [CPU Temperatures Benchmarks]
  1. joluke
    Replies:
    14
    Views:
    1,428

Share This Page