Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

For long term use, this is the way to go, as it wont suddenly spike your temps after a week due to LM diffusing into copper. I would also follow @Papusan advice and remove the old LM thoroughly before final installation. Since you have old sludge slurry consisting from tin and indium with very little gallium acting like a barrier between new LM and IHS.

 

So long as its fluid basically you know it's still fine as those metals obviously are not liquid at room temperature on their own.

 

awesome! i was just thinking about replacing every thermal pad on a p775tm1-g with k5-pro (except maybe the 4mm pads), and am researching if there's anyone who did this already on the same model since i'm not sure about the differences from your notebook to the 775tm1

 

The P775 and P750 are very similar. Practically the same really. I have K5 Pro on every component, even in the thick areas.

The thickest thermal pad on these machines is underneath the GPU. And this is the only area where I run the factory OEM pad with a combination of K5 Pro too.

I originally invested quite a bit of money in Gelid thermal pads. I hand fit them with the MXM GPU outside of the machine with the heatsink in hand. The temps were bad at first until I fine tuned it some, and adjusted the pads accordingly. I was able to get them to normal levels, but I just wasn’t that impressed.

Then I just removed them all gelid pads and installed K5 Pro everywhere. I am 100% satisfied. And I wish I would have just used this stuff from the start.

I run Liquid metal on my CPU die and the inside of my rockitcool copper CPU IHS. And I run Liquid metal on top of my cpu Rockitcool copper IHS too. I also have liquid metal on my GPU. And it is painted and soaked in to the contact areas of my heatsink.

This laptop runs crazy cool at 5.1Ghz daily. Everything is either K5 Pro’ed, lapped, or liquid metal coated.

K5 Pro is a little messy, and it is tough to remove. But you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long while.

I say go for it. If you apply K5 Pro makes sure you set the heatsink on first before applying thermal gel to confirm it is touching the heatsink in all areas. If the heatsink area is clean in some places, then apply more K5 Pro. It can be blobbed and built up pretty high so it contacts everything good. Repeat this until you see white dots on the heatsink where the application of K5 Pro contacts. Then apply your thermal paste or liquid metal of choice to CPU and GPU areas.

This is the easiest way to replace thermal pads! And I will continue to use it on every laptop where a thermal pad would normally be.

 

From a VRM point of view they are identically laid out.

 

My Skypro programmer, 1.8V adapter, and SOIC8 clip will be here today hopefully. I am going to test out the higher TDP bios on my GTX1080. It should be fun for benching when those quick test that could possibly peak beyond 190-200TDP watts resulting in a higher graphics score.

I doubt I will see any improvement in games as I am well under 200 watts of power usage on my GTX1080. I am just temp limited. Who knows it may help a little.

I wish our graphics cards could perform like our CPU’s do. I can run my 8086K at 5.1Ghz easy and running 90C on all cores for extended periods of time is no issue at all. It always runs 5.1. Even if I had 95C CPU temps!

But with Pascal we can be under 80C and under 190TDP watts and it will not hold a steady 2Ghz core clock.

Why can’t we run our graphics cards at 90-92c @2.2Ghz locked lol?

They keep clocking down the warmer they get. The most I can hold is 1,911 steady. I wish we could just run the power and frequency we want. But nvidia wants our gpu’s stuck in the performance tier that they were originally designed for.

A 2.1Ghz or 2.2Ghz GTX1080 would be solid!

 

Ready to use my programmer!

I just got these components today!

 

Just remember to take a backup.

 

Could you send me your gtx 1080 vbios? Do you have vbios over 190W TDP?

 

If you mean me mine is not for me to share as I did not modify it.