cf-28 internal port (cn18)

Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by stan.distortion, Nov 27, 2007.

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  1. stan.distortion

    stan.distortion Notebook Guru

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    Toughbook, nice to know the cables are 100%.
    I was wondering about using a fine belt in a belt sander with the cable on something flat to skin the contacts, not tried it though. I was thinking that would be something like the method used in production but they look more like they are heated somehow.
    tough-2-go, cn18. cn40 doesn't have much of interest... for now :) A few folks have various things working with the internal USB, I have bluetooth and wifi and ohlip has gps on a cf-m34 and cf-28 (in progress, probably finished by now). There are a few others dotted around the net but none of them go into much detail.
    cheers
     
  2. Toughbook

    Toughbook Drop and Give Me 20!

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    RumGod gets the fingerprint scanner...
     
  3. ohlip

    ohlip Toughbook Modder

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    Toughbook.. do you have a picture of that fingerprint sacanner? Thanks

    ohlip
     
  4. Toughbook

    Toughbook Drop and Give Me 20!

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    You can see what it looks like here... The problem is that the pc board takes up almost the whole length of the case. So you have to have that length inside the laptop.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. ohlip

    ohlip Toughbook Modder

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    Thanks! its almost brand new, i guess. As i have seen on ebay its way diff. the old one but that one is the latest in tech that mostly notebook used.

    I will pm you, maybe i can score one.

    ohlip
     
  6. ohlip

    ohlip Toughbook Modder

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    Just for the head up. I am running out of budget. I needed to sold one of my unit. Hey! Toughbook, i can't offer you the unit coz those unit is not a touchscreen. Just waiting for my purchased usb gps receiver may a couple more days and I am done. I just post the pic. of the progress in a separate thread for reference.

    ohlip
     
  7. klboo

    klboo Notebook Evangelist

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    A couple of comments to throw into the mix here for responses - from someone who is not too experienced in the soldering aspects of the process:

    1. I read Toughbook's use of a shortened flat flex cable to bridge the mb and daughter board. A search brought up another camera hack using a similar 3 way cable.
    [ http://www.whitetailsupply.com/PDF-Files/Flat_Flex_Cable.pdf ]
    That process involved soaking the cable in acetone to soften the insulation, then scraping with a flat surface (a butter knife). Using a 30way, .5 mm pitch for testing, and the back of a pocket knife blade as the hard flat scraper, I was able to uncover the wires on one side of the cable, then found they were loose enough on the other side to carefully lift them up and separate them (tho it might be better to uncover only one side and then cut in between with a hobby knife). I can then alternate the even and odd wires. I am trying to see if I can solder the flat wires to 30 gauge or slightly bigger wire to see if I can break out the connector that way to a board of some type to fit under the battery. Testing my soldering skills (or lack thereof) is a next step. Does this sound feasible?

    2. The wire and connector pitch is .5mm. Assuming you can find a wire gauge where the wire and insulation thickness matches (28- or 30- gauge?), does it sound feasible to wrap the wire around an object to make a connector? I visualize something like wrapping to get about 104 wires to the inch ( basically the width of the connector, with wire space to each side), then removing every other wire after embedding or fixing the wires some way (epoxy or glue). From what I have measured (found a 52-pin IC which matched the 50 wire cable pitch, and measured the same width as the cable) this should get about the same spacing as the hi-rose connector to then connect the cable end to some way. You would end up with the correct pitch at one end, and wires you could more fully separate on the other.

    I know this is Rube-Goldberg-esque, and anyone who knows what they are doing probably wouldn't look at this twice, but I wanted to see what kind of feedback this might generate.:rolleyes:

    Thanks for taking the time to read this far.
     
  8. stan.distortion

    stan.distortion Notebook Guru

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    Hiya. Cheers for the link, nice to know the solvents work to get the damn insulation off :) Did the same as you are proposing and it worked very well, getting the insulation off was the hardest part though.
    To get usefull connections I used a piece of stripboard (2.54mm pitch) with 4 rows of 13 pin sockets. Any kind of pin or socket would work, I happened to have those at hand.
    From there it was the same as you suggest, odd wires forward and even back, get them well insulated and do the same again on the 2 groups to end up with 4 rows of 12 and 13 wires.
    Looks tricky at first but once the wires are on a bit of tape its easy to space them out evenly and end up with (close enough to) 2.54mm spacing. Then all that needed to be done was solder them row by row on to the block of pins using a bit of tape between each row in case of sharp edges.
    Looking back over that it doesn't make a lot of sense :) I put some photo's in the files section of the yahoo toughbooks group, if your not already a member its well worth signing up as there is a lot of very usefull info and the search seems quite good as most of the threads are short and to the point. Started this thread here to help keep it that way :)
    cheers
     
  9. klboo

    klboo Notebook Evangelist

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    Hiya, stan - actually I was on toughbook.groups before finding this, and I think you started your port breakout there before bringing it here - just used a shorter version of the id here.

    I had looked at your pictures when you first posted them I think, but it makes a lot more sense now after 2 months of following this and the GPS thread.

    I'm not sure how well the softening of the insulation worked - I used my wife's nail polish remover, and it may not have been as strong as the pure acetone. I actually used a little sand paper to rough the surface of the insulation on one side and it seemed to go better after that.

    Definitely looks better and is probably easier to strip a longer length of the cable to be able to feed the wires through the strip board than try to solder to the wires first. Separates them out better and would appear to give better control. Glad I didn't use the 50 way cable initially. There also seems to be a .5mm cable with solder pads on the wires at one end, but I'm not sure if I've found a source for a 50-way version.

    I had thought about splitting the wires to 4 groups like you, to make soldering easier, but was hung up on coming back to a 1x50 row of pins. It does make more sense to go to four rows instead, or even split the pins up to areas for connections depending on the use ( like the USB wires to a separate area). Like in 'Wrath of Khan', stop thinking in 2d, visual 3d (or 4d) instead.:D

    Keep up the good work.
     
  10. klboo

    klboo Notebook Evangelist

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    FYI - to bring this back to the top. Don't know if anyone else is still trying to do something with the CN18 with out the daughter board as far as getting the available USB there.

    Requested/received 2 samples of the 50-way/.5mm pitch ribbon connector ( the latch part that solders to the mobo and daughter board) to see how that could be used. Thought I might be able to brake out from the pins, rather than try what stan did ( I tried but was going cross-eyed trying to see the wires, and the separation from the ribbon plastic didn't go well). That doesn;t seem feasible either, as the pins would probably snap free from the plastic if they are bent in any way to try to get a little more separation.
    There are slots in the connector, that end up under the ribbon that are continuations of the channels the wire runs in. The size matches 30-gauge wire, so I am using an adhesive and laying several wires in to match USB+ and USB-, 5v, and gnd, and will then run those to a USB hub and see if it continues to work, or if the smoke leaks out of my test 28. I hope that the flat wire on the ribbon is able to make contact with the 30-gauge wire that is in the channels when the latch is down on the ribbon and get a signal through. All of this is on a small PCB board for a little bit of support.
    Hope to have more USB ports, or a new boat anchor, soon...
     
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