Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by seb_r, Apr 29, 2018.
Yes you are correct, it's because of the SSD. Forgot about that.
I used it for years on a lot of my older Toughbooks and it worked great. I know we have a thread on it some where. The trick was finding the right memory card...class 10 I do believe.
Windows sees the SSD and doesn't give you the option to use ready boost in Win 7. But in Win 10 you need to actually go to the USB drive and right click to see it. I haven't tried it in Win 10 as my 3E's are SSD.
Hell, might work. That 3E is the only thing that will ever have 10 on it and I gave it away to the girlfriends daughter. But I could try it real quick........
Here is a link to the Readyboost threads
No joy on 10 with the SSD, it doesn't give the option.
Another quick question: the second RAM module (that can only be changed after removing the rear cabinet) has some kind of sticker / foil on it. Does this serve any other purpose than hiding the label of the RAM manufacturer? It has to be reapplied on the new module installed? Will be hard to do that since it is not sticky anymore..
It doesn't do anything, it's safe to leave it off.
It serves as heatsink, for as little as you use it and with the SSD installed, I wouldn't worry too much. I always found the spindle drives were the big source of heat. If you were going to use it a lot then sure, replace it.
Thanks for your advise. I was more concerned about the RAM module maybe making contact with some other electrical components on the board. But overheating is not an issue in my usage scenario for sure. I even think the tight wrapping / stickers on the RAM module reduce airflow further and might contribute to overheating.
Got to remember, no fan so no airflow. Strictly radiant heat flow. The CF-C2 with the core i5 is the same and the bottom gets very warm, as does my 19Mk5.
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