Asus UX430UN i7-8550u, 150MX GPU, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD $999 Costco.com

Discussion in 'ASUS Reviews and Owners' Lounges' started by HTWingNut, Nov 3, 2017.

  1. Xff34

    Xff34 Newbie

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    Hello everyone,
    Firstly, thank you all very much for the hard work put into finding out the optimal settings and tweaks for this laptop:) It's very helpful, and beyond expectations how much the throttling got reduced in your machines reading the experiences.

    After reading the thread I've decided to try to tweak my laptop as well, hoping for being able to lightly game on it (I am eyeing Skyrim, which was said to work nicely on MX150, and mostly games having similar requirements).

    The undervolting and overclocking settings were very clear to me, however, if it's not troubling, I would like to ask additional questions about thermal pads (I apologize if it is already said as clear as possible.) The thought of opening the laptop brings a bit of anxiety, I have never repasted or added thermal pads and I am afraid of making a mistake.

    I understood the thermal pad should be directly sandwiched between the heatsink and the bottom of the lid (please correct me if I am wrong). I have looked online for examples how it should be applied, however I have had no luck. I think people applied them on the bottom of the heatsink instead, which didn't help me much.

    I thought about buying an Arctic 1mm thermal pad (it is described as "thermal pad with thermal paste" in the local shop) - would this one be alright? Would it be wiser to go for an another company instead, or a thicker/thinner pad for this laptop and its needs?

    I understood I need to cut the thermal pad in the shape of the heatsink, which is a big rectangle. Should I cut it in the shape of the heatsink visible, or so it also covers the thermal pipe? I have drawn over a photo (taken by Andrei Girbea from ultrabookreview.com) to show the areas I am puzzled about (red, or blue?). Am I completely wrong?

    [​IMG]

    When I cut the thermal pad into the correct shape, should I lay it on the heatsink and close the lid? The description says the pad is self sticking - does it stick on one side, or both? If one sided, would it be correct if I lay the non-sticky side on the heatsink, with the sticky side facing upwards, so when I close the lid, it sticks to the bottom lid of the laptop?

    I am very sorry for the amount of questions, and hopefully I didn't take too much time. I am very afraid of messing it up and causing the temperatures to end up even higher.

    Thanks so much for reading:)
     
  2. QuantumCakeIsALie

    QuantumCakeIsALie Notebook Enthusiast

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    You don't want to put the thermal pad there (picture).

    Just lay the thermal pad over the CPU/GPU sockets, cuting it to match their respective outlines. When you close the case again, it will stick on both the heat pipes and the case; re-opening the laptop will probably tear them and require a reapplication. You can experiment with putting pads at the end of the heat pipe like you described, but I'd start with the sockets to remove some heat from the pipes ASAP.

    I personally used Arctic 1.5mm 6 W/mK light blue pads. I didn't bother with repasting, I assume it could help but not that much given that the original paste is brand new.

    If you stay calm and don't panic, it's not very risky to open a laptop. In doubt about something? Just stop what you're doing and look it up; don't rush. Avoid rug floors or touching fabric. Work on a solid surface, and discharge yourself by touching a big piece of metal, like your oven, prior to touching electronics.
     
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  3. Xff34

    Xff34 Newbie

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    Thank you so much for the exhausting reply and additional tips:) It was of great help and relieved some of my anxiety too. Opening it doesn't seem so scary anymore lol. I just have to remember to be careful. Thanks so much again, it's really helpful.

    I've received my laptop two days ago. The date of manufacturing seems to be August 2018, I live in a central European country (I'm not sure if it makes any difference though). I've tried checking for PWM, dimming the display as much as possible and looking through my phone camera.

    PWM seems to be non existant. HWiNFO says the display is Chi Mei (the colors are indeed a bit warm when I think about it - it's as if I had a very slight orange filter on the screen). Perhaps ASUS permanently changed the display in later units? Since PWM was a very important factor to many users and a game breaker, it would be great news to have it removed.

    I believe the coil whine is present, when I put my ear close to the left side of the laptop, I hear a quiet high pitched noise and some "pulsating" kind of electronic buzzing (SanDisk SD9SN8W512G1002). It is only noticeable when I look for it, however I have the laptop for a very short time and haven't put it through heavy workload yet. Which also means I haven't tested for throttling, however I wouldn't expect a change.

    My experience with the laptop is very good so far, Kubuntu works great on it, keyboard and touchpad feel pleasant. Booting from USB was a bit of a problem even after disabling fast and secure boot as BIOS wouldn't see my USB drive. Strangely enough it worked only after I entered BIOS while restarting the PC instead of powering off and on and inserted the drive it into USB 2.0 socket.

    ----------

    EDIT: I've run a fairly demanding 3D animation program while having OpenHardwareMonitor open, trying to push the GPU close to the limits.

    The laptop was plugged to the AC Adapter since 2-3 restarts. The temperatures raised to 74C rather quickly, however, I've had stable fps without any sight of stuttering. I've had it running for a few minutes, the temperature bounced between 72C and 74C. I added an another 3D model to the scene, I experienced very slight stutter every half of a minute or so, but nowhere as bad as described earlier - it might have been caused by physics in a certain moment of the animation instead. (I've had around 25 fps)

    As soon as I unplugged the laptop I got heavy throttling and my GPU stopped working for around half a minute (<1fps). I will be testing more. I might have not stressed the GPU enough to throttle on AC power, although the fans seemed to run on full speed and it reached the maximum temperature. I'm positively surprised though - I expected a complete disaster.

    I updated to the newest BIOS (December) before, the laptop is still "raw" and not tweaked. What was a surprise to me - I examined HWiNFO's log closer and my model is apparently UX430UNR which is also confirmed in BIOS, although the laptop had UX430UN-GV115T on the sticker on the brown cardboard box.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2019
  4. QuantumCakeIsALie

    QuantumCakeIsALie Notebook Enthusiast

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    The R is for refresh, aka the 8th gen cpu version of this laptop. All of the ux430un with a i7-8550U are actually ux430unR.
     
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