Asus Scar II - GL704GW, i7 8750H, RTX2070, 144hz

Discussion in 'ASUS Gaming Notebook Forum' started by cloudpm, Feb 3, 2019.

  1. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    @MacNPeeve Picture attached. 13 screws in purple. The two most right-hand screws hold down a big connection board which needs to be lifted up and removed (I circled this in yellow).

    All connections in yellow should be unplugged. Make sure to unplug battery first, this is done by sliding the metal clamp over the connector up a little, then lifting up the battery connection.

    There are then two fan headers to unplug, and a further header called EXT (I think).

    When I first repasted, the factory thermal paste on VRM's, power modulators etc was still liquid and I could see it would be fine without repasting the whole system. I left the paste on both the chips and heatsink, and just cleared up the CPU & GPU chips and their corresponding parts of the heatsink. This was only possible because the laptop was very new, and the paste had not thickened/hardened. After a few days, I re-opened the laptop to apply Liquid Metal - at this point, the paste was no longer re-usable, as it had gone thick/clumpy. An easy/quick way to solve this would be to clean the heatsink, clean the surface of all the contacting components and just use put a drop of NON-CONDUCTING paste on all components previously covered with the stock paste. It will look messy, but it will still likely be an improvement over the stock paste used by Asus, and will take 5-10 minutes - you will also still have the old stock paste which squeezed out of the chip-heatsink interface over everything. Not exactly an issue from a performance/technical standpoint, but certainly an issue aesthetically.

    Other option is to use thermal pads as I describe below. Also, beware that cleaning up the old thermal paste from everything is 2-4 hours of painstakingly scraping and wiping with a toothpick and alcohol wipes (I used alcohol wipes, you could use something else I am sure. That's just what I had on hand which worked). After I had done this, I was reluctant to use thermal paste to re-coat the components, which is why I went the thermal pad route. I also plan on checking on the Liquid Metal application a few weeks down the line, and I would like to be able remove and reapply the heatsink with as little hassle/mess. If I used thermal paste, this would require cleaning and reapplying all over again.

    I have since used some thermal pads to replace this stock paste and clean things up a little. See images attached to this post.

    For the love of God, anyone thinking of replacing stock paste with pads. USE 0.5MM PADS. I tried first 1mm Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8's. These are too thick, and will lift the heatsink from the GPU causing massive thermal issues.

    I used 0.5mm 14W/mK Alphacool pads. Not cheap, but the only 0.5mm pads I could get next day delivery in the UK with Amazon prime. These have worked great. GPU now sits on the heatsink well, and all the memory/vrms make good contact with the thinner pads. I used less than half of the 100x100 sheet. Also had a small amount spare from the 2 x 120x20 thermal grizzly pads. I'd say total area required was around 4000mm squared.

    I'm now running at 80c on both the CPU and GPU after an hour Aida64 stress testing, with no issues. In-game that's around 70-77c. Fans barely kick in on balanced mode until 80c, so it games ridiculously quiet.

    Very happy with everything now.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019
  2. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    @Oddyman, see my previous post. With Liquid Metal I'm seeing 80c on CPU and GPU after an hour Aida64 stress testing.

    I'd say a 10% difference in core temps, whilst not ideal, is acceptable. When I'm hitting 80c on CPU in Aida 64, 5 cores are 77-80, then one core is around 70-72c. I doubt this is down to thermal compound application, and is just manufacturing variance in core efficiency.

    My CPU hit 95c with a quick Aida64 test or cinebench R15 test as stock; resulting in thermal throttling. I think this is what you have to accept unless you are willing to upgrade the thermal compound.

    Out of interest, what was your GPU reaching in the Aida64 test when combined with CPU load?

    I did actually hit 91c on the CPU core with Liquid Metal after booting the laptop from cold and hitting it straight with Aida64. It took about 20 seconds for the fans to ramp up, and honestly the CPU had already pretty much stabilised at 91c BEFORE the fans even ramped up. Fans ramped up to about 4000rpm and the temp dropped back to 80c. If I could mess with the fan curves, I'd really be interested in seeing how quiet I could game on this setup.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019
  3. MacNPeeve

    MacNPeeve Newbie

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    First of all, you are an absolute legend. Thank you SO much, I couldn't find this info clearly anywhere! For the fan headers, do they pull out just like the battery connection? You kind of just unclip them out of place?

    Second of all, I think I may have been blessed by the luck of the draw in terms of stock paste. Currently with my -102mV undervolt, plus dual channel ram (I added another 16gb crucial stick), the hottest temps I hit are in BF5 running 100FPS on ultra settings...which hover around high 70s-mid 80s (very occasional spikes into low 90s, but that's once in a blue moon). Not great by any stretch, but not horrendous either as this the most taxing game I've thrown at it.

    Overwatch runs 150 FPS (capped) on High settings with temps in low-mid 70s.

    Most other games (Alien Isolation, Tales from Borderlands, other Indie games, etc) run in the mid 50s-low 60s.

    Browsing I run mid 40s, and idling high 30s.

    I've noticed though, the computer does run a few degrees hotter than when I had the stock single channel ram, so if anyone is considering adding another stick- beware.

    Are these temps considered OK (mostly worried about the mid 80s)? Obviously I'm not gaming at that temperature load 24/7...maybe 3-4 hours every couple of days. If they are, I'm just going to keep chugging along until the thermals crap out or when the warranty expires, and then repaste.
     
  4. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    Honestly, there were times I considered if it was worth the risk/hassle whilst I was midway through LM repaste and pad replacement. It's the risk associated with putting it all back together and having it not turn on that looms over you the entire time you have the thing open up and are messing around.

    Once it was all back together, and turned on and I got awesome temp reductions, it was all worth it. If it didn't turn on, I would be telling a different story.

    The fan headers just slide out, there's no securing/clipping in mechanism. It's only the battery connector which you have to slide the metal clip out of the way. None of them are difficult, just be gentle and don't tug any wiring, and you'll be good.

    It sounds like your laptop is running games well at stock. So you wouldn't really experience any performance gains. That's not true for everyone here. My unit didn't undervolt as well as your own, and I was hitting low 90c often during gaming. What you would gain on is acoustics. This is the issue with the lack of fan configuration currently in Armoury Crate, it kinda masks the thermal gains seen from my LM repaste as the fan profile does not really get aggressive until 80c+, which mine almost never hits now. I have yet to figure out how the manual fan control in Crate works, in fact I think mine is bugged out as it seems to have no control over my fan profile.

    If you are considering a repaste, just be sure to be careful taking the warning sticker off the heatsink screw (it comes off fairly easily without damage) and put it somewhere safe! Mine ended up stuck to my laminate flooring, and I damaged it slightly whilst getting it off. Probably not an issue living in the UK, but if I ever have a non-GPU/CPU related issue with the laptop, I would rather any RMA engineer be unable to see that I had removed the heatsink at some point. I'd be removing the LM for non-conductive thermal paste if the need for an RMA ever came up anyhow. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut looks very similar to the stock paste, so if you did want to repaste with this, I am almost certain you could do this without ever having to worry about warranty, (just keep the warranty screw sticker safe and remember to apply it back to the #1 screw). You will be facing the issue of hardened thermal paste over the rest of the laptop though, as it sounds you've had some decent use out of it.

    Also worth noting that the heatsink might give you trouble when it comes to lifting it up off the dried thermal paste. Don't pull too hard on the left side of the heatsink (it looks like the best place to grab hold of it, but you will end up having to bend the heatpipe back), you're best applying some sidewards/shear force to the heatsink to loosen it up, then trying to pull it up from around the CPU/GPU. Just my experience so far.

    Glad I could help!
     
  5. MacNPeeve

    MacNPeeve Newbie

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    Thanks again for the information...the sticker you're referring to is the tiny black one on the screw head, right? It has an exclamation point in a triangle? If that's all the ASUS is using to show void of warranty, that's kind of silly, lol.
     
  6. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    That's the one. Very easy to remove without damaging.
     
  7. Oddyman

    Oddyman Notebook Enthusiast

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    The temp of gpu went to around 86-88°c then went down to around 82-84°c.
    Yeah i know this laptops(gaming) will go high in temp, but dayum boy, so high? Well i guess this will have to do, because repaste dosent come as an option.
    On another note, dose anyone else have black light bleed? Yesterday when playing Metro Exodus my GF(she is totally against games...women, cant live with them, the end... xD ) saw it and now i can put my eyes off that white/black screen.
    (it dosent look so bad on pic, its a bit worse in person)
     

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  8. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    Eh, at least it's not throttling. I think the GPU throttles at 90/91c.

    That's more IPS glow than backlight bleed. The lighter corners (particularly your top right corner) is IPS bleed, and is pretty normal. You actually have very minimal backlight bleed from this picture (backlight bleed is the unevenness in lighting on the bottom panel). Mine has slightly worse BLB.

    Asus actually have an FAQ on the Scar II which addresses that IPS glow is normal.

    From that picture I wouldn't be concerned. You'd probably get something worse if you returned it.

    Apparently something to do with high refresh rate IPS displays with low response times.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
     
  9. Oddyman

    Oddyman Notebook Enthusiast

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    Well the first few days after getting laptop back i saw high temp., but yesterday i tried again stress test without undervolt and temp of cpu didnt exceed 96°c! Happy! :D
    Guess it had to warm up a few times, to get in all the cracks and to even out.

    And this BLB, if you say that its all in normal rates then should be ok, thx for info.
     
  10. spudstone

    spudstone Notebook Enthusiast

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    See: https://www.asus.com/me-en/support/FAQ/1039102
     
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