ASUS ROG G752VS Owners Lounge

Discussion in 'ASUS Reviews and Owners' Lounges' started by Johnksss, Aug 21, 2016.

  1. cronusk

    cronusk Notebook Enthusiast

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    Download synaptics. Disable the precision and restart every time you switch on. I got a little exited when I flashed the 310 bios coz I thought it fixed the issue. But it did not.

    Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
     
  2. Franck Dernoncourt

    Franck Dernoncourt Newbie

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    Does Windows 7 run fine on it? (e.g., no driver issues)
     
  3. Mobius 1

    Mobius 1 nͫٴiͤٴcͫٴeͤ੮Һ૯ ცɿ૭ ૭คעٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴ

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    It does run but I'm not sure if you can find any drivers for it
     
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  4. Franck Dernoncourt

    Franck Dernoncourt Newbie

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    Maybe one can use the Win10 drivers on Win7?
     
  5. Mobius 1

    Mobius 1 nͫٴiͤٴcͫٴeͤ੮Һ૯ ცɿ૭ ૭คעٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴٴ

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    I'm not entirely sure on that. It might be possible on some drivers. YMMV.

    I'd try giving driver booster by iobit (I know it looks sketchy, but the program is legit) and/or driverscloud to automatically search for compatible drivers.

    ASUS support page doesn't give you the option to choose anything other than Windows 10 for drivers.
     
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  6. Jaxione

    Jaxione Notebook Consultant

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    Hey guys!

    Bought a used Asus G752VS that have a nasty scratch in the lid. Looked online and you can buy it as a spare part. The question is how hard it is to change the lid yourself? I have some knowledge about computers but I dont want to break anything.

    Br J
     
  7. Muriyata

    Muriyata Newbie

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    Hey, i was trying to do everything here posted, but my Lap (G752VS-XB72K OC Edition) keep BSOD if i do not OVERVOLT the CPU, yes, i must "live" with it overvolted because if not, BSOD that says: WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR immediately i, even, reset it to default. I know, by some reading, that that error code (WHEA...) it relates when the CPU is not receiving much voltage (undervolted too much) but i think my lap has some internal problems regarding the voltage supplied to the CPU (within the BIOS or something) because i am not undervolting it! Though i have done everything i could possibly do to "reset to default voltage" even reflash previous version of BIOS, uninstalling every bloatware (Game Center, for example) XTU and TS (uninstalled and installed again to see the changes in voltage) but everything seems to be "perfect" when i reset the voltage it just show normally: 0.00v. But when i game with 0.00v the BSOD is shown. So i ended up figuring out that if i want to game, i must overvolt a bit the CPU in TS:+0.028v in the CPU core and Cache... One may say that if the temps are low, it is just fine, but the CPU temps reach 95C gaming even having this problem!. Maybe all of this came because i had not used a clean windows install from the begining (i have purchased this laptop used) so i am planning on formatting the C drive and fresh install Windows, thats my last hope and i didnt do it because i have so many games that i do not want to delete....

    The only thing that would left to fix (after i fix the bad voltage thing) will be the Temps... trying to do a real undervolt.

    What do you guys think about this problem i have? I know that this is not normal behaviour.
     
  8. hmscott

    hmscott Notebook Nobel Laureate

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    You have the OC edition, which already is Overclocked, which means you have little or no headroom to undervolt, so as you describe your limited undervolt range requiring eventual overvolt is perfectly fine behavior.

    At normal stock CPU clock you can undervolt much better than at top OC. As you change the CPU speed from stock, to slight OC, on up through top OC, you will pass through undervolt, to stock voltage or zero under/over volt, until you may need to pass into the overvolt range.

    Different generations of CPU have gone from undervolt at stock to needing overvolt nearing the top OC, to now where I can still maintain a slight undervolt at a sizeable OC, and I am satisfied with that and stop OC'ing there.

    You can then push through further and hit the point where you need overvolt, but for me I am happy enough with the OC performance within the undervolt / stock voltage range.

    I find that overvolting quickly increases the thermal cooling requirements, and I prefer not wasting my time re-pasting or modding for improved cooling to reach the absolute heights in OC, as those settings are usually too high - to demanding on cooling - or too noisy - for me to run all of the time.

    I'd rather back off from the top OC and overvolt and stay in the stock paste / cooling range with a slight undervolt at top OC. This is for me the optimal OC / noise range to run all of the time.

    On the GT73VR with a 7820HK, -15mv undervolt with stock paste and cooling at 4.5ghz is plenty fine for me, and even better is setting the OC to 4.2ghz and -50mV undervolt. :)

    For my daily use experience the top OC vs balanced speed vs noise, the top OC performance isn't something I can tell the difference vs slightly lower OC while undervolted performance, so I'd rather run cooler and quieter instead of pushing the CPU all of the time.

    And, not all CPU's of the same model undervolt as well as others, which can be disappointing - you can always test for this right off first thing when you get a new laptop, and if it's a really bad undervolter, return it and get another one - hopefully the luck of the draw will provide you a better CPU undervolter the second time.

    If you are able to run your laptop with a slight overvolt, and keep the CPU from thermal throttling under heavy use, it's really not a problem, you just have a CPU that doesn't undervolt well and needs overvolt for stability.

    If that bothers you, return it and get another sample, maybe you'll get a better one on the next sample. It's good to keep in mind that if everything else about your current sample is satisfying, good cosmetics, low IPS backlight bleed, and everything works 100%, you might end up getting a better undervolting CPU but have other problems that are more problematic.

    Good luck :)
    download (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2018
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  9. Muriyata

    Muriyata Newbie

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    I understand a much better now, thank you very much for your explanation. But even knowing all of that i find it not normal because the CPU Throttle, i resetted everything to stock to see (3.6GHz at max WITH Turbo Boost!) The laptop's temp reach 89C with that way and Throttle every now and then (I know this because i play Final Fantasy XV with everything maxed out AND 4K textures, pushing the limits of this lap the hell out of it, the game uses up to 29GB RAM, 7GB VRAM :eek:) and in TS i see the cricle activate saying "TDP Throttle" and when playing for 15 minutes, the laptop gets really hot, then a very noticeable drop in framerate (from 50-55 FPs to 28-35 FPs) that may be normal some could say... At 3.6GHz reaching those temps (having done a repaste and cleaned dust already) is not normal i think. I just would like to play without CPU Throttling even if will need to lower the settings for some games... The undervolt (at least right now) is not an option due to instant BSOD and the repaste i have done a few weeks ago lowered the temps just 5C i noticed!!! WTF! The GPU temps max gets to 85C (hwInfo). Do you think if i fresh install windows i could possibly do an undervolt for real and so the temps, at least a bit? Thats my goal right now... Why is the CPU "requiring" more voltage as it is!? i don't really get it.:mad::(
     
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  10. hmscott

    hmscott Notebook Nobel Laureate

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    I don't think a Windows reload will help.

    If you can't undervolt at all, even -15mV? I had an Asus G750 that would only do a -15mV undervolt at stock out of the box, -25mV after a few months of use, and after 18 months it finally was stable at -50mV undervolt, but I wasn't thermal throttling either - as long as I waited for the auto fan speed spun up.

    You shouldn't be thermal throttling at all, but I have seen some situations where it gets triggered due to slow to act auto-fan settings, and Asus is the most likely to have this happen as they prefer quiet operation over cool operation.

    So I'd use hwinfo64 and log with 2 second interval and see how often you actually hit thermal throttling - it triggers and then doesn't reset unless you reset it via the hwinfo dialog - bottom left - which is what I do when benchmarking on Asus with slow fan auto speed - clear it after a few seconds and then once the fan spins up fast enough it will keep the CPU cool, until then it can quickly hit thermal throttle point and makes it look like it's doing it the whole time when looking at the logs shows it is below 93c - even in the 80's once the fans spin up.

    So, I'd work on adjusting the fan curve, if the Asus interface allows you now - I think it does - I haven't used it for a couple of years, and used 3rd party tools back then to accomplish the same.

    Anyway, as long as the fan speed spins up and cools the CPU below thermal throttling - if it hits it briefly it's not going to affect performance through the use - benchmark or game - as long as the fans stay spun up. Or you can override the auto fan and switch on 100% fan's, but that's noisy so see if you can adjust the fan curve in the ROG tools.

    I'm not surprised the Asus paste wasn't beat much by custom paste, as that has been my experience too. LM might improve it further but it's not worth the risk to me.

    It can take a few times to get a good / best result in re-pasting a new laptop, as you get familiar with the fastening and spread of the paste, so if you aren't happy - think a bit on it and try again.

    Now that you have repasted you will need to eventually again, as the enthusiast pastes don't last as long as the stock pastes before showing rising temps, so maybe wait till that happens, but be prepared with a new paste / plan to attack it again.

    Other than that, lift the back higher than the front to encourage convective air flow, it can improve significantly the overall temps, even more than applying external fan cooling. The front should be an inch or more off the surface to avoid trapping heat between the surface materials and the laptop, and at least 2" in back for convective cooling effects.

    You could try also setting the multipliers manually. Try 35x x 4 to start, and try only raising the Core 0 1x at a time, and raise Core 1 1x after the Core 0 is raised 2x-3x, and the same for Core 2 / 3, stagger the multiplier so that for 1 or 2 thread tasks it has high multiplier and then lower multiplier for 3 and 4 thread loads. This will reduce the need for more voltage and keep temps down. Customize the CPU tuning to get best performance under most loads while reducing need for overvolt and higher resulting temps overall.

    Good luck :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2018
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