* Asus N61JQ Owners Lounge *

Discussion in 'ASUS Reviews and Owners' Lounges' started by GregW, Feb 3, 2010.

  1. NEX_SASIN

    NEX_SASIN Notebook Evangelist

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    Safe to assume the caddies on ebay that are assigned to N61 will work regardless since there's no complexity with the circuit board.

    My caddy is china made with the brand "Topda" (basically brandless), good plastic, bendable thin aluminum covers. The circuit board is thick and well meshed, interface ports wielded like mainboard so is done by machine than by hands. Bought it somewhere 2010 used it time to time, had used it for a whole year before and just fine. Now days i use caddy for write-zeroes or verify sectors servicing other HDDs, SMART info can be detected since the caddy is just a port conversion, no onboard capacitor or chip. Never had issue with data lost or drive corruption. All the drives i used with it are low speed 5400RPM 2'5 inch, i don't know the max power draw that PATA port output so never used 7200RPM drive with it.

    The main laptop drive compartment can be fitted with 2'5 inch SSD like Vlad said, mine was Crucial M4 SSD an older generation than MX300, tiny bit cramp but it will fit in with no effort.
     
  2. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    Unfortunately, this laptop's screen is way to bright and it's hurting my eyes. I have Windows 10. Is there an old driver out there that I can use that uses allows the backlit to work again? Or are they all broken with Windows 10?
     
  3. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    So I tried a clean install. But 13.1 or 13.4 would not work for Windows 10 (probably because they were made for W7 and 8). It would only let me install the ATI Control Panel and HDMI Audio Driver. No actual display driver.

    Anyone know if there is an old driver that works with Windows 10? I would like to get the backlight working and I don't care if its an old driver because all the games I play are old anyways.
     
  4. Kevin@GenTechPC

    Kevin@GenTechPC Company Representative

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    AMD probably didn't release a driver for it, perhaps try unpacking the package and use device manager to do a forced install as it may work.
     
  5. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    I tried doing that, but it just said "Microsoft has determined you have the best driver".
     
  6. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    Well I finally put a 250 GB SSD (Samsung Evo 860) in this laptop. I got it on sale and my HDD was dying anyway. So it looks like this was my final upgrade for this lovely laptop. :(

    I love the instant boots and the fast loading times for video games.

    I already upgraded the RAM to 8GB, Wireless adapter to a AC, and finally a SSD.
     
  7. Vlad_The_Unknown

    Vlad_The_Unknown Notebook Enthusiast

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    Have you tried the latest drivers that support the Radeon Mobile HD5730 suggested on the AMD website?


    Catalyst Software Suite Revision Number 15.7.1 WHQL Release Date 7/29/2015
    or
    Radeon Software Crimson Edition Beta Revision Number Crimson Edition 16.2.1 Beta Release Date 3/1/2016

    I'm successfully using the second one on Windows 7 SP1 64 bit with your backlight fix.
     
  8. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    Gonna have to resurrect this thread from the dead....

    Is there some sort of driver I need for my chipset or something in order to maximize my CPU and use TurboBoost Technology?

    I did a complete clean install of Windows 10 on a new SSD. I didn't install any drivers from the ASUS website because they don't have W10 drivers for this old laptop. I just did updates through Windows Update and that cleared all my question marks on device manager, and I got the ATI driver from the ATI/AMD website.

    When I watch my CPU through Task Manger, it doesn't look like it's using TurboBoost. TurboBoost is supposed to be up to 2.8 GHz. I hardly see mine go over 2 GHz. It says it's at 1.58 GHz at 99% load.

    When using CPUID, it says my max is 1596 MHz.

    This was using just a browser-based stress test.
     
    Kevin@GenTechPC likes this.
  9. FalconFour

    FalconFour Notebook Enthusiast

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    Turbo Boost is firmware-based, so no drivers -- I found this out much later, long after my Asus laptop was gone.

    The processor basically knows "here's how much power I've got to work with, here's what the processor load looks like, here's the temperatures, so I'll reallocate resources to use as much power as I'm allowed to make this load go faster". Oh, and Windows also has a clock speed cap, if you've tweaked those settings (no limit by default).

    If your power limit is OK, clock limit is OK, your load is high, and the temps are low, everything should be great and you'll get turbo.

    So let's look into each of them:
    Power limit - a malfunction of the power management hardware can put an artificial cap on your CPU speeds, because it's trying to protect something that may or may not need protecting (e.g. if a board power sensor isn't working, or a battery is defective, or an AC adapter is malfunctioning). End result is the CPU working on a power limit that's lower than usual. A really tricky one to diagnose, so we think about this last.

    Clock limit - in Windows Power Plan options, check under the "advanced power plan options" page (it's a classic Windows control panel pop-up dialog) and look for the "processor power options" tree item. Under that, there's max and min settings, expressed as a percentage. I very strongly recommend leaving "Minimum" at 5% so idle throttling can do its job. The Maximum, though, usually ought to stay 100%, so the firmware can do limiting based on the power options slider in Windows 10 (believe it or not, there's more that goes on under the hood than just min/max ;) ). If it's not 100%, it can definitely cause this.

    Load limit - obvious, Task Manager.

    Temperature - this one is fairly likely. Is your CPU fan working? If not, it could be putting one of the Power Limits (as above) on the chip, just by virtue of it detecting the fan not working. How about the temperatures, seen with CPUID's HWMonitor (not Pro, just standard) utility? Of course it ought to be below 80C, optimally far below that (50 is nice, 30 is cold, 80 is quite warm, 90 is dangerous, 100 is basically "rekt" or standard MacBook CPU temperature depending on who you ask).

    Hopefully this helps as a starter. I just got an email notification and figured why the hell not dive in and mind-dump. :)
     
  10. Shpati

    Shpati Notebook Consultant

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    @FalconFour , thanks for the quick reply.

    I just replaced the battery and fan. I tried playing around with the min/maxs, no luck. So kept them on 5% and 100%. Temperatures are fine.

    I'm not sure if I ever heard of tweaking "load limit" in task manager?

    I'm beginning to think this is some sort of power or power driver issue. Because when I go into power options, I only get one option, which is "Balanced". Before my clean W10 install, I used to get Battery Saving, Balanced, and High Performance. I used to always use High Performance. But I don't get that option anymore.

    You think I need a "High Performance" mode in order to get Turbo Boost?
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2019
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