Asus N61 Owners Lounge

Discussion in 'ASUS Reviews and Owners' Lounges' started by Red_Dragon, Sep 22, 2009.

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  1. Eric Lee

    Eric Lee Notebook Enthusiast

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    Found a fix for my problem already.

    Edit: I know this is a very late reply and everyone probably knows it by now. But somehow W7 set my RAM to 2GB in msconfig after an update!!
     
  2. Adamal

    Adamal Notebook Evangelist

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    Hi Eric Can you post your fix in case anyone else has this issue?
     
  3. FalconFour

    FalconFour Notebook Enthusiast

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    Okay, what the heck. I'm getting fed up with the issues of my N61Jv-X2 right now. I can't even do any high-CPU activities anymore because the CPU just overheats, fan roars, clocks back. Used to be just a little problem where Turbo Boost wouldn't go all the way up, now it won't kick in at all and the CPU roars at 82-85 C with no turbo. And am I a noob that forgot to clean the heat sink? Hell no, it's perfectly clean, religiously. It blows lukewarm air out the side, not even hot.

    Is there anywhere I can get a replacement heat pipe for this thing? I mean, this is only one of a list of problems I've had... the touchpad left-click button doesn't work for a crap (I have to tap everything, or make a conscious "pressing on the button" effort to hold an extended drag), the inside LCD bezel is cracked at the right edge (yay for cheap plastic crap!), the USB3 port is the most physically unstable connection I've ever had to deal with (always drops my USB hard drive unless I hold it at a certain angle)... I'm just getting fed up with this thing. >.<
     
  4. Atook

    Atook Notebook Evangelist

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    Sounds like you might need a new mother board. Warranty time?
     
  5. FalconFour

    FalconFour Notebook Enthusiast

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    Aye, I've already pulled warranty service twice on this thing... the buttons already went dead once and I had that replaced (HDD also had bad sectors, but I use a SSD now), and the second time around, I had the battery replaced when it started suddenly dropping from 19% to 0% battery without warning (other than 19% low battery). Sadly I'm just outside the 1-year warranty as well, but I doubt they'd honor it after the mods I'd done to it - added Bluetooth, replaced DVDRW with BDRW, swapped HDD for SSD, and even tried fixing the thermal problem with a professional application of Arctic Silver (and I spot thermal-application issues on homebrew rigs every time, I'm somewhat a pro on the matter after years of fixing laptop GPUs).

    Now, I'm not very gentle with the thing either, which accounts for the cracked display bezel. But I mean, come on... I never dropped it (okay, never dropped it *formally*, just a soft fall or tip once or twice), and I treat it with an IT pro's care - that is, I know what will and won't hurt it, but I also take it to/from work and home every single day. The heat pipe thing is just a frickin' pain in the ...

    I think it might be due to a slight bend in the heat pipe, which is why I wanted to just replace the pipe. These pipes tend to degrade over time in my experience, and this thing certainly has issues getting the heat from the chips to the heat sink. The heat pipe gets burning hot at the chip, but doesn't move it nearly quick enough to the heat sink. I just couldn't find a source for that part anywhere... :/
     
  6. qld4568

    qld4568 Newbie

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    Does this sound like my battery might be dying? My N61JQ is just on 12 months old and I've regularly let the battery run down before charging it, as I was told to do to prolong it's life.

    Over the past month, I've noticed it's losing charge much quicker than it used to. For example, this morning, only 20 mins from boot up it was already down to 30% and all I'd done was check email.

    Is it worth buying a new one, or is 12 months the best you can expect for a battery anyway? If so, I think I can survive w/o a battery anyway, as I don't take it anyway away from a power source.
     
  7. FalconFour

    FalconFour Notebook Enthusiast

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    Whoever told you to run the battery down is a misinformed quack! Li-Ion batteries NEVER like to be fully discharged except on rare occasions. They're like lead-acid car batteries in their charging behavior: they operate best when fully charged, only PARTIALLY discharged, and *never* stored in a discharged state (they can never fully recharge after being discharged).

    I'd say you toasted your battery with that full-discharge routine... time for a new one :(

    You only need to fully discharge it if you haven't touched "3% remaining" in a long time (BE SURE to check your power options and set CRITICAL BATTERY LEVEL to 3%, not 5% - it's 5% by default which is bad!). Here's how it works:
    100% to 5% remaining: this percentage is calculated by the battery estimating how much capacity is left, based on how much power the battery has provided or charged. It does not monitor the battery voltage or status for the ENTIRE 95% run of this percentage.
    5%: Battery has less than "X" mAh remaining - based on a number programmed by the manufacturer.
    3% (the important one): Battery has reached "EDV1" - End of Discharge Voltage 1. This is the voltage that also triggers the battery controller to "try to use the next discharge as a calibration", since it has reached a fully discharged level and can monitor how much power went into the battery during charge.

    To get a good calibration, discharge to 3% then allow it to hibernate or sleep. Plug it in, then you can use the computer, but do not unplug the computer until it reaches 100% charge and stops charging (make sure both are true - sometimes it'll still charge "past" 100% relative charge, as it finds the "true 100%"). Windows Vista and 7 will show "100% available (plugged in, not charging)" (or 98%, 99%, etc).

    Most important part is to make these changes to the Balanced power scheme and ALWAYS stay in "Balanced" mode:
    - Processor power management
    -- Maximum processor state - on battery: 50% (it's there for a reason; throttle to 50% on battery will give you at least 1/3 more battery life and rarely any performance loss)
    - Battery
    -- Critical battery level - both: 3%
    -- Reserve battery level - both: 9%
    -- Low battery level - both: 15%

    Everything else is left to preference (sleep on close, sleep time, hibernate time, etc), but THESE options are the dead-central, core basic, absolute essential changes that need to be made to EVERY Windows PC due to Microsoft's ill-advised defaults. It'll make the system work a lot better based on specifications from the Smart Battery protocol :)
     
  8. qld4568

    qld4568 Newbie

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    Wow I sure as hell have been given some bad advice. :mad: Thanks for all that great info FalconFour, much appreciated. :cool:
     
  9. Paul Palo

    Paul Palo Newbie

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    May I say/ask something on that issue?
    On My N61 the battery lasted exactly 26 months, so just outside warranty.
    To me this is ridiculously short. Are there others with like experience?
    An original replacement puts me back about 130 US dollars/90 EUR.
    And if the life of Asus orginal 'quality' batteries can be this short, does anyone have experience with other manufatucters that provide these battries for Asus??

    Cheers,
    Paul
     
  10. Atook

    Atook Notebook Evangelist

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    I have to say, 26 months doesn't seem atypical, I expect a battery to last less than 2 years on any machine, dell, HP, Asus, etc. Anything more than that is gravy/luck.
     
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