ASUS G51 Cooling mod

Discussion in 'ASUS Gaming Notebook Forum' started by kondor999, Aug 25, 2009.

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  1. Ranma

    Ranma Newbie

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    I just finish my mod... is no where near as smooth as the other guys (cutting the plastic circle is real , cut the metal mesh was a nightmare too)
    I finally got it, and to be honest I have no change in temperature
    PS: I am a failure as a handy man
     
  2. RocKai

    RocKai Newbie

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    You might need to put it on a cooler to see the effects, my temp stay the same when the laptop is on its own but when put on my Cooler Master cooler, the temp drops significantly.
     
  3. koniakki

    koniakki Newbie

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    Yeah, I know it's a 2 month(and 2+year old) thread but if came across it after 2 years since started, some others may too. So here's my feedback.

    Before I continue I should say, it's better to get a cheap modded backplate off from Ebay or somewhere else in case you don't feel comfortable doing it. But even if you do, I still recommend buying one to save you the hassle.

    I sold an ASUS G51VX-RX05 to a customer(teen) 1.5+yrs ago. This summer he was complaining about random shutdowns(overheating). So he finally brought it to me and I did my magic(mods :D).

    Replied thermal. MX-4.
    Replace that fake vent-wanna-be to the one on the photos. Oh and I painted the fan all black. It's quite better. Although no one is gonna be looking it that much. hahaha

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With Furmark the GPU reached 81-82c at 1366x768 with no AA and post effects on. I'm quite happy with the results. Only tested twice. 1st test. Waited to cool down and re-tested.

    CPU was idling at 40-42c.

    It's Fall here now so temps are a bit lower than what would have been in the summer because of ambience temps, but by not that much I believe, since noone is gonna test it outside in direct sunlight. Right? :p

    P.S2: If anyone has found an alternative fan(Higher perf), please do share.
    Thank you.
     
  4. DAaaMan64

    DAaaMan64 Newbie

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    ANY suggestions for getting someone else's backplate, or a spare, or a knock-off would be appreciated. I've been looking for one for a year. Thanks.

    I'd be happy to buy someones at the right price.
     
  5. nucklord

    nucklord Notebook Enthusiast

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    It's not used (it's refurbished), but I managed to find it on ebay:

    Asus 13GNSZ5AP040-1 Asus Cpu Door Sub Assy | eBay

    Just thought I'd post that if anyone is still looking for one, since they aren't sold new any more.
     
  6. iceninja650

    iceninja650 Newbie

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    I did a bit of a different mod to my G50V that took very little in cost.

    essentially cut a hole in the bottom and made my own grill for it.

    ASUS G60VX Gaming NoteBook Heat Mod Fix - YouTube

    the link above is essentially what i did, cut a hole, used a metal file to smooth and curve the opening, put the silver piece back on, and used crazy glue to mount a grill made from a cutlery tray.
     
  7. RainMotorsports

    RainMotorsports Formerly ClutchX2

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    Hope that guy knows a needle or something like it could have bent the pin on the blue wire so you could pull it out of the connector. Making it less permanent. Piece of tape on the end to insulate it. Do it all the time for overclocking bench runs.
     
  8. C4RN1

    C4RN1 Notebook Consultant

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    I figured i'd add my 2 cents and post my temps and mods to my g51vx i bought on ebay with a no video issue.

    I reflowed the gpu and the southbridge with my hot air machine and reassembled the laptop using arctic silver 5 thermal compound. The computer would get about 195F before the fans would turn on, then they would go near 80% power to get the temps down to about 150F then the fan would turn back off. If i left the computer running for about 30 minutes the cpu heatsink would finally heat up enough to keep the fan on and idle at a stable 152F. But if i exited all my programs and left it just idle the temps would vary again.

    I knew these computers had problems because i fixed a g51vx about a year and a half ago that had the same issue. I ended up just cutting the wire that controls the fan to keep the damn thing cool. I also modified the bottom with a speaker grill.

    Anyway i ordered a 1mm thick thermal pad and decided to redo all the thermal pads on the gpu heatsink, the thermal pad on the southbridge and reapply ic diamond thermal compound to both the cpu die and gpu die. I also put a thermal pad on the bottom where the cpu and gpu heatsink meet as well as on the top. I tried to fill in the empty space with some rubber i took off the heatsink. I have a switch ran to the front left side of the computer (where the mesh grills are on the front of the computer), it's nice and hidden and out of the way.

    Here are some pictures and a log of my temps.

    Inside Bottom Cover
    [​IMG]

    Outside Bottom Cover
    [​IMG]

    GPU Heatsink with new Thermal Pads
    [​IMG]

    GPU Heatsink Mounted, CPU die pasted, SB Thermal Pad
    [​IMG]

    Hooked up to an external monitor
    [​IMG]

    Screen shot after running over 4 hours
    [​IMG]

    LOG:
    3-25-12: Post After GPU + Southbridge reflow
    =================================================
    3-27-12: Thermal Testing with Arctic Silver 5
    Lowest idle for gpu 124F 100% fan
    Lowest idle for gpu 108F 100% fan on battery

    Lowest idle for gpu 149F pwm connected

    ==================================================
    5-4-12: Thermal Testing with IC Diamond + New Thermal pads

    Lowest idle for gpu 144F pwm connected
    Lowest idle for gpu 132F pwm connected on battery

    Lowest idle for gpu 108F 100% fan on battery
    Lowest idle for gpu 116F 100% fan

    I bought both the ic diamond thermal compound and the 1mm thick thermal pad off ebay.

    Here are the links to them
    Thermal pad
    IC Diamond Thermal Compound

    If you want to complain about me posting temps in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius then click here

    Thanks everyone for the informative threads and posts on this forum.
    Feel free to contact me with any questions.
     
  9. MilkIt79

    MilkIt79 Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hi. thanks for sharing your cool experiences with the this laptop. I was wondering which component keeps burning out on this laptop. It interests me that you have repaired a few of these.

    Your cooling mod looks nice and clean. I was also thinking of getting the thermal pads but wasn't sure if it would help. It looks like the results using the pads actually increased the heat vs your tests with Arctic Silver 5.

    I wanted to mention that you should try clocking down the GPU. It doesn't seen to do it automatically but it makes a significant difference in temps.

    I'm currently typing in bed with my G51 and i'm idling at 58C or 135F, with the GPU clock at 200/400/400. The lower clock speeds really help with the temps. My fan is at 2800 rpm. I haven't cut the blue wire, I prefer my laptop to be silent unless i'm gaming.

    I found that by modifying the clocks with the Nvidia profile policies, I got much improved temps. This seemed to have the biggest impact for me. It's definitively worth a try and it will increase the life span of the laptop.

    Happy Modding :D
     
  10. C4RN1

    C4RN1 Notebook Consultant

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    It's not that a component keeps burning out it's that the solder under the component gets hot enough and forms a small crack at one end of the solder point. This is caused by extreme heat cycles (usually dirty heatsinks or a poor thermal connection to the heatsink), sometimes the solder will form a cold solder point and work until the computer heats up. I actually have written a few explanations about this on various forums.

    The root of the problem is from the RoHS directive and japan taking the lead out of solder in like 2000-2001. Pretty much the whole purpose of taking the lead out of solder was to limit our exposure to lead, though RoHS targeted consumer electronics to limit lead exposure to children using the electronic devices. Also this would limit the amount of lead in landfills after the electronic device failed, probably having something to do with the lead contaminating our water supply (who knows?)

    The xbox 360, ps3, dlp tv boards, various laptops (dv6000, dv9000, tx1000, tx2000, f700, d630) and even my bothers cable modem (ha) are all plagued by this issue. Nvidia had a giant class action lawsuit to try to deal with the majority of their laptops dying.

    These chips are all bga (ball grid array) which means all the solder points are below the chip in a grid. There could be 700-2000 little solder balls beneath the chip and if one has a hairline crack in it you will start experiencing issues.

    Take a look at this picture, it's from the gpu from an xbox 360
    [​IMG]

    You can clearly see the crack between the ball and the pad, this xbox had the infamous red ring of death.

    Anyway there's a couple ways to fix this issue, one is to reflow the chip, the other is to reball the chip.

    Reflowing is just reheating the board and solder up to a certain temperature to help the solder crack seal, most of the time people try to cut corners or don't know what they're doing so reflowing has earned a bad rep. You need a machine that's specially designed for bga soldering and they aren't cheap. Some people (youtube mostly) decided that using a heatgun would have the same results. Compare a heatgun to this machine and you can clearly see which one is better. Plus using flux speically designed for reflows helps your success rate.

    Reballing is exactly what it sounds like. The chip is removed completely, the solder balls are cleaned off the chip and board, the chip is reballed using a stencil, then the chip is placed on the board and reconnected. This is a really complicated process but it's usually a 100% success rate. Though there are some machines out there (L2 computer from brooklyn ny has one) that are completely automatic and will heat the chip and remove it automatically. I personally won't mess around with reballing, it's just not worth the time and frustration.

    Anyway you asked why they fail, there you go.
     
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