Alienware Aurora Desktop Owner's Lounge

Discussion in 'Alienware Desktops' started by Mr. Fox, Feb 9, 2015.

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  1. Cass-Olé

    Cass-Olé Notebook Consultant

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    [​IMG]
    Brother Fox, you noticed finally, huh
    ... they've realized a nearly undefeatable promised land ...
    swap-block
    _______________​
    Einstein > Another stock 875w J556T or W299G

    Help & How-to: Aurora ALX (mid 2010) - PSU Replacement - Issue With HD Cages
    Mod Sata Cable: Power Cable Mod

    Some of the Swap Archive:
    XFX Pro Series is made by Seasonic & is the same as the Seasonic X-Series (XM1 / KM3 platform). Example XFX Pro Platinum 1000 ... flat ribbon cables for dual-vid-cards recommended (example Seasonic XM2 or platinums) or round sleeved cables for solo-card configs. If you need an 8pin CPU EPS extension, try eBay. Aurora R1-R4 have a custom case harness for a reason: do your best with cable management using some-what longer aftermarket cables. Note the need in the ALX for a certain type of sata head, addressed in the 1st swap link (HDD cages), work-around is the sata cable mod I posted about. Take your time man, work like a sloth in there, it's a small, frustrating chassis at times
    __________________
    edit​
    80i V2 & GT are 49mm wide radiators which may get in the way of your left memory bank, I wish I knew. If it wants to fit, it would only happen with a single 25mm fan 50+25 = 75mm intrusion); a 38mm kooler may be better, like standard 80i. However, some people have done push-pull with standard 80i (38 + 25 + 25 = 88mm intrusion)
    [​IMG]
    example, 80i 38mm push-pull dual fans
    [​IMG]
    The R4 premium 38mm kooler is 01YGW ... used $50 - $80, & a direct drop in: I own six of them, it's a good kooler, made by Asetek, same people that make 80i for Corsair
    [​IMG]
    I make these 5/7pin adapters for the 80i swap, but I'm all out of material to make anymore. Find the standard install method here: Adventures in replacing the stock Alienware Aurora R4 CPU cooling pump. Dreaded CPU fan failure prompts attack my patience!!
    ________________
    Seasonic​
    I linked you to my R4's Seasonic X-1250 XM1, which is 7.5" / 190mm long, and things fit for me in there. The X-850 is a KM3 platform, 6.3" / 160mm, so you'll gain an inch. Looks like you get a mix of ribbons & a round sleeved 24pin, sounds good. Anything coming from Seasonic / XFX in 700-1250w gold/platinum XM1/XM2 XP2/KM3 trim is a winner in R4
    [​IMG]
    I own x3 XFX Pro, they're bad a$$ ...
    they & SSonic have a track record of making things right in Aurora
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    my 1250 came out recently, new Seasonic 1000w platinum now in​
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
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  2. einsteinchen

    einsteinchen Notebook Geek

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    Hey @Cass-Olé, thank you very much for your answer :) The link to ebay with the premium 38mm cooler does not work for me and none of the images appear. I just get . Nevertheless, big thanks!

    It seems I have some work order to swap the PSU, hopefully it is worth it. Since I like to work on PCs as a hobby I should enjoy the challenge ;) I have read the one Thread at Dell Community about the XFX Pro 1200, but that is way too much for my needs, ~800W are fine.

    I do not know if I need the SATA power cable mod, since I do not neet to plug in the cables for HDD/SSD. See a picture here. However, I need to connect the HDD/SSD cage backplate somehow.

    Regarding the original PSUs, do you think it is worth buying them over a new one? I do not want to get another noisy unit.

    My first upgrade is the PSU, if the CPU cooler has to go is not certain yet. I will keep the space limitation in mind.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
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  3. Cass-Olé

    Cass-Olé Notebook Consultant

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    plug 01YGW into an eBay search, you'll see it, they pop up for sale from time to time. I wasn't trying to get you to buy something over 1000watts, just letting you know the longer chassis works so it implies the shorter ones do too. The links may describe what efforts were needed to stuff a new one in, where XFX & Seasonic are a brother / sister chassis, same basic internals ...
    [​IMG]
    some Aurora get front Sata power / data cables which makes for an easy cable swap; ALX chassis has rear data / power cables which need attention, both to full case harness removal & having the correct type of Sata heads (pass-through caps), as Sampatel discovered & needed help with
    [​IMG]
    to be up & running, do 'member a hard disk can stow in the DVD blank tray til the rest of the lower Sata power cables get installed, & your case buttoned up

    For the little bit of time I had my W299G running, it wasn't particularly noisy. You can take an air mattress pump or similar & blow yours free of dust, perhaps take it apart & clean the fan. When you see J556T go for $36/shipped, yeah, it might be worth it to give one another try, it's a coin flip. For looks, a new warranty, larger fan & better chassis / internals I could just as easily say: toss that 40 into a new power supply
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
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  4. einsteinchen

    einsteinchen Notebook Geek

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    Thanks again!
    I know you were not pushing me to >1000 W, I was simply pointing out that I do not need it ;) That Seasonic produces for other brands was new to me.

    Removing the drive cage is noted. Since I live in Germany ordering from the US ebay will leave me with ~60$ for shipping, thus a new power supply could be cheaper ^^. The german ebay has currently only J556T PSUs for >100€, which is way too expansive. If I find as PSU with affordable shipping I will go for it.
    Cleaning the PSU is up next, I already go a DATAVAC electric duster and will put that to use :)

    TBC
     
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  5. einsteinchen

    einsteinchen Notebook Geek

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    @Cass-Olé
    I have managed to replace the R4's PSU with a Corsair RM 750x. This unit is a bit longer than the original PSU,
    but not as high -> the new PSU does not make contact with the bottom of the case (maybe I need something to support it).

    Removing the HDD/SSD cages was relay fiddly and I did not manage to put the two right most screws of the right cage back in.

    Since the 24 pin cable of the new PSU is bundled in a tube it does not fit in the cable management things below the GPU (or on top the blade separating
    the storage space from the main compartment).

    My general procedure was:

    1. remove the graphics card and PCI/HDD fan, fans need to be unplugged from the controller board
    1.1 removing the cover containing the LED batteries and the air shroud from the GPU area is helpful, CARE: do not to brake anything!
    2. remove the blade separating the storage area from the main compartment (secured with 3 screws)
    3. remove the HDD/SSD cages (each cage is secured with 6 screws, 2 from the bottom and 4 in the rear case wall)
    4. unscrew the PSU from the back and unplug the cables, remove the PSU
    5. unplug PSU cables from the mainbaord, controller board, HDD/SSD cages, CARE: do not brake anything!
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
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