[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

Discussion in '2015+ Alienware 13 / 15 / 17' started by iunlock, Oct 22, 2016.

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Will you be repasting your 17R4/15R2?

  1. Yes.

    173 vote(s)
    73.0%
  2. No.

    13 vote(s)
    5.5%
  3. Maybe.

    51 vote(s)
    21.5%
  1. iunlock

    iunlock 7820HK @ 4.7GHz

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    [Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

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    And here it is! Pictures are a thousand words so I did my best to let it speak for itself. Hope this helps!

    *** I'll be adding comments ...still under construction ***

    Below are the conductivity numbers for the top Liquid Metals and Traditional Paste:
    (As we know the numbers don't mean everything, however, from all my tests done so far, Grizzly Conductonaut has always topped CLLU by an average of ~3C. Results may vary. However, because I am repasting, every drop in C's count. It could make all the difference in some scenarios. To each his own...)

    Liquid Metals:
    Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
    Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
    Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk

    Traditional Paste:
    Gelid GC Extreme: 8.5 W/mk
    Grizzly Kyronaut: 12.5 W/mk
    ICD: 4.5 W/mk

    -------------------------------Let the fun begin...----------------------------

    You can use Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol as well, but make sure to get at least 70%. I usually use 70% at first, then polish it off with 91% if I'm ever out of ArctiClean, which is almost never.
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    Make sure to keep your screws organized.
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    Here's a quick video on how I remove the WiFi cables. Haven't broken a pin yet....hope this helps.



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    Use a plastic pry tool and work your way around the laptop. It's kind of like the taking the top keyboard part off of the 17R3, only this is the bottom panel cover.
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    It's easier to keep the heat sink unit intact until you undo the two fan plugs on the back side of the mobo.
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    Make note of this...there's only a screw on the right side.
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    Make sure to unclip these before removing the mobo.
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    That's the power connector that needs to be unclipped before taking off the Heat Sink unit.
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    That's how it looks with the mobo off. Very solid...metal everywhere...it's a tank.
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    I've also measured the thermal pads while I was at it...

    AW 1070 Model:

    I'd recommend replacing the stock thermal pads with Fujipoly:

    2x - 1.0mm (https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod...=UTF8&qid=1480891448&sr=8-6&keywords=fujipoly)

    1x - 0.5mm (https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJRH22/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480891448&sr=8-3&keywords=fujipoly)

    [​IMG]


    For the 17R4 with the 1070 you'll need:
    2x - 1.0mm (100x15)
    1x - 0.5mm (100x15)

    ---

    AW 1080 Model:

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    For the 17R4 (Sky Lake 6820HK) with the 1080 you'll need:
    3x - 1.0mm (100x15)
    2x - 0.5mm (100x15)

    ---

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    For the 17R4 (Kaby Lake 7820HK) with the 1080 you'll need:
    3x - 1.0mm (100x15)
    3x - 0.5mm (100x15)


    ---

    Dried toothpaste...SMH
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    I mean...it's unreal how they spend all this money on R&D etc...then crap on it with cheap toothpaste? Oxymoron....I just don't get it.
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    Eekks...
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    SMH
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    Nice and Shinyyyy...
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    That drop is enough for the die and heat sink...It looks like a lot and for it being liquid metal it usually is, but for laptops you do have to be a bit more generous with the LM, hence the electrical tape protection just in case.
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    Take your time....try to use only one side of the brush or the black Q-Tip that comes with Grizzly Conductonaut. For this application I've just the CLLU brush. Both (brush or Q-Tip) work fine...(I would refrain from using regular Q-Tips. The one I am referring to is the one that comes with the GC kit as it is very tightly spun to prevent cotton fibers from getting into the mix of things.)
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    I usually don't make the box area that big as the die size is much smaller. It really doesn't matter.
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    After you work at it for a while, it will start to get into the micro pores if you will of the copper and all come together to make a nice shiny glass like surface. It's actually quite nice.
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    Get ready for some amazing temp drops...Liquid Metal is the real deal.
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    Updated: While you're at it....

    Revised PCH Mod.
    (Revised and Improved over the copper shim method that I had posted here.)

    Thanks for being patient guys. I just had to make sure before publishing this (long duration tests)...many many tests later, it's sealed and confirmed. It works great.
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    Note: Notice the orientation of the fins (horizontal). Also, the height you want is approx. ~4-5mm. The size of the actual HS doesn't have to be exact. I may even end up trying a bigger size (width) later and test to see if it makes any distance. The thing you don't want happening is having the rate of thermal dissipation exceed the amount of air flow that's under there for obvious reasons.
    Enjoy :)

    ---

    Before:
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    After:

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    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I'd like to give a big shout out to @Mobius 1, @DeeX, @zergslayer69, and all the others who have shown support with the AW17R4 project.

    Have questions in regard to repasting? PM with any questions and I'll be glad to help.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I'll be adding more goodies so stay tuned.

    Enjoy!
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2017
  2. iunlock

    iunlock 7820HK @ 4.7GHz

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    Grizzly Conductonaut (Liquid Metal 'LM") vs Grizzly Kyronaut (Traditional Paste)

    I've decided to repaste one of my 17R4's with Grizzly Kyronaut to collect some data and to see what it can do. The results are pretty enticing. My goal was to see exactly what Grizzly Kyronaut can really do at its peak potential.

    There definitely is a cure time. Absolutely there sure is...

    Initial temps were actually about 4-5C higher at first, but I immediately went into some heavy testing and shortly after started my 6 hour long Fire Strike loop.

    The temps right now are fantastic. I still can't believe this is traditional paste (Grizzly Kyronaut <- For future readers lol as not all traditional paste is created equal.)

    On average so far the CPU temps are in the upper 60C's while the GPU is in the upper 50C's. -

    LM still has a 8-10C advantage over the overall CPU max temps. Average wise, the temps are approx. ~5C more than LM. So far....

    Note: The GPU does seem to run 5-6C cooler with the Grizzly Kyronaut when playing OW. However, when it is stressed for long period of time, the LM is more sustainable as I think the nature of traditional paste kind of looses it's integrity under over the top unrealistic extreme conditions like a 6 Hour FIre Strike Combined Loop Test lol...Just thought it'd be worth noting.

    For those who have missed the original post here are my gaming temps:

    Ambient Temp: 22.5C

    BEFORE: Stock
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    AFTER: Grizzly Kyronaut, HS Mod/Fix, Repad, and a ton of time balancing the stupid HS.

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    Temps with Liquid Metal: 4 Hours of Gaming at 36x - Overwatch
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    Here's some eye candy for the time being...

    I've figured out how to OC the CPU to 7.77GHz with the fans completely turned off by tuning the LED's.

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    Don't lie...you know that looks fresh. :p

    Update:

    K guys...fresh off the press...I'll be running a bunch of benches tonight to obtain some stock figure then likely tomorrow I'll do a full disassembly and repaste with none other than LIQUID METAL! Grizzly Conductonaut to be exact.

    The keyboard is pretty cool to touch as the heat is really concentrated toward the back as it was designed to do.

    Stay tuned...lots more to come...this is just the beginning....

    And this one...

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    And these...

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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2017
  3. judal57

    judal57 Notebook Deity

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    looks really good !!!
    can you give me the wallpaper with the badass eyes ... ?

    if you can, look the reference of the fans ...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2016
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  4. raiden87

    raiden87 Notebook Consultant

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    So i am abusing ur thread for posting my results :p sorry iunlock ;) i have to say that this cooling solution is ****ing amazing! For real my temps wherent this low since my M17x R4! And this is even the 15... I only can recommend every1 to do a repaste with lm!

    OCCT
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    http://imgur.com/pOIxDug

    Unigine Heaven
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    http://imgur.com/iEVrsye

    My GPU Temps where at high 60s (67-69)
    This is so freakin amazing! Really happy with this thing!
    No Undervolt!

    *EDIT* Why doesnt it show my images?
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2016
    hmscott and iunlock like this.
  5. iunlock

    iunlock 7820HK @ 4.7GHz

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    No worries! I have just finished gaming and am about to post up my results as well.

    This is great...thanks for sharing and yes the new cooling solution of the AW is a hit (good) and not a miss.

    I actually like how much this thing weighs....feels confident.

    Update:

    After gaming for 35 Minutes....just look at that GPU Temp ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  6. raiden87

    raiden87 Notebook Consultant

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    do u've got occt or unigine results?
     
  7. iunlock

    iunlock 7820HK @ 4.7GHz

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  8. ThatOldGuy

    ThatOldGuy Notebook Deity

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    Your GPU thermal headroom is amazing. Cant wait to see the GTX 1070 pushed beyond stock GTX 1080 benchmarks
     
  9. iunlock

    iunlock 7820HK @ 4.7GHz

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    I'm a bit surprised myself on the numbers that it's producing on the bone stock configuration. If you search on 3DMark.com, and look at my recent fire strike and time spy submissions, the scores of others around mine have much higher OC's so I'm really excited to see what this can produce when I actually do OC, which will likely be later today. :)
     
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  10. Darkhan

    Darkhan Notebook Evangelist

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    I received my 15r3 Friday 6820 1070 UHD.

    CPU temps hit 98c in battlefield and GPU hit 89c.

    Its going back Monday I am not even allowing anyone to come work on a 3k system. I will either order another or wait and get the 13 with oled.

    I love the 15 but mine either has crap paste job or no paste and I am not flipping out the entire motherboard to repaste it.
     
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