Acer TimelineX 3820TG Backlit keyboard mod

Discussion in 'Acer' started by Hendrickson, Jun 12, 2010.

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  1. geokilla

    geokilla Notebook Consultant

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    Regarding the 3810T keyboard. If I get the normal one that doesn't have the backlit function, do I still have to cut things to make the keyboard fit? The price difference between the 3810 and 3820 keyboard is HUGE. Like $20 difference!
     
  2. Bronsky

    Bronsky Wait and Hope.

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    AFAIK, the 3810T works fine. It is what users put in their 3820TGs before the 3820T keyboard was produced. I think it fit without modification.

    Bronsky:cool:
     
  3. roar

    roar Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hi Guys. Awesome thread...

    I got my keyboard some days ago and want to try to install it in the next days. I'm considering wiring the keyboard to the CAPS-Lock key/led somehow (Nobody needs that key anyway). I guess the keyboard has several (2?) LEDs in serial and parallel, thus the ~3,5V. A really small circuit to connect it to 5V, switched by the CAPS-Lock key sounds like the best choice.
    If anybody has ideas or circuits in that direction, I'd be glad to know... I would be willing to solder SMD parts also to make it fit.

    Edit:
    Found the posts related to current draw. 150mA@5V and 40mA@3,5V...
    How about this. Would that work? What kind of readily available SMD FET could I use?
    [​IMG]
    (or more conveniently connect the resistor directly to the the FET...)

    I'll probably get power from here (image from somewhere in this thread):
    [​IMG]
    Is this power source somehow connected to some device, so e.g. when I switch off WiFi or whaterver it turns off?
     
  4. danellebreo

    danellebreo Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hey so to do this mod all I need is the keyboard which i've already ordered a soldering iron, and solder. Is that all? or are there additional wires I need.
     
  5. Bronsky

    Bronsky Wait and Hope.

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    You will need some wire to jump the power and ground to the ribbon on the keyboard. I canabolized a desktop fan extension that I had available. If you add a switch like some of us did, you will need a lot more wire. I also recommend a jewelers file to open the slots needed to adjust the fitting. Oh, and lot of flux. Having adequate flux on the joints is critical to the success of your soldering efforts.

    Bronsky:cool:
     
  6. danellebreo

    danellebreo Notebook Enthusiast

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    what kind of wire exactly? Can I just use what ever wire. I mean I have spare computer parts lying around Could i just take the wire from the 4 pin.
     
  7. danellebreo

    danellebreo Notebook Enthusiast

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    I'm also probably going to do it with the op's method cause its the most detailed. I own a 4820tg
     
  8. roar

    roar Notebook Enthusiast

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    It might be smart to get a SMALL soldering iron (small tip, only a few watts) otherwise you burn/desolder stuff and break the board, especially when you're less experienced in soldering. Plus get SMALL (diameter) wire so you have less problems running it through the small space you have in there. Current should not be an issue, as the 50-150mA are virtually nothing...

    Flux is usually not needed, but makes stuff easier. With proper soldering iron temperature and clean coper wire you have solder on your wires in no time. Just heat the tip of the wires first, then put solder on them. Don't use flux on your mainboard! You don't know what stuff it contains that reacts with the board. It might die on you early because of corrosion etc...

    Also, for beginners: First prepare the wires (put solder on them), THEN solder them to the board to not heat it more than necessary. If you don't know how to solder, maybe first try on some less expensive stuff...
     
  9. danellebreo

    danellebreo Notebook Enthusiast

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    Can you redirect me to a link for the wire. I do have case fans lying around, and speaker wire, but I'm not quite sure if its compatible with what I'm doing here. As for soldering iron im using a 20 watt.
     
  10. roar

    roar Notebook Enthusiast

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