3820TG Owner's Lounge - Part Two

Discussion in 'Acer' started by Bronsky, Mar 13, 2011.

  1. balekoglu

    balekoglu Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    hi. can you tell me which Leshcat driver should i install on windows 7. and how should i install them?
     
  2. diesIupitri

    diesIupitri Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    I installed win 10 on discreet as it was pretty obvious everyone with old cards had problems and it works, though of course no intel card. I was bored, so I tried with both cards and pretty much what I expected, AMD card mostly on strike and black screen while intel works. So I guess discreet is the way to go.

    We're lucky we can just disable the intel card, some people with older laptops really can't do much, but stay on 7 or 8. So even old, this laptop is still awesome in some ways and I still see no need to buy a new one.
     
  3. RoBman79

    RoBman79 Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    5
    Hello, i just replaced GPU fan (bought this one) in Acer 3820TG due to rattling noises.

    Problem is that the new fan always run on full speed, even if the GPU temperature is fairly low (about 50 °C ~ 122 °F). The blown air is also relatively cold.

    Notebook's BIOS unfortunately doesn't allow any fan control.

    Any sugestions? Thank you very much.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
  4. Roamer55

    Roamer55 Notebook Geek

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15
    For those that may be interested I was able to get switchable graphics working at least to some degree in Windows 10. I ended up installing Windows 10 twice but I don't think I really needed to do that. The problem that I had was when I booted the machine I couldn't see the login in screen. When it got to that point the screen started to flash, you couldn't see anything and you couldn't proceed. What I discovered is that if you either boot up on the battery or pull the power once you see the flashing screen that everything works fine. Once logged in you can reconnect the power without issue and the switchable graphics appear to work. One caveat is that I haven't tried any games or other things that might stress the switchable graphics. So some of the black screen issues that have been reported may be there and you may still need to revert to discreet graphics in the bios to get some stuff to work. I am using the stock AMD drivers and not using any modded drivers.

    Here is the long story of how I got to this point:

    The first time I installed Windows 10 I did in an in place upgrade with switchable graphics enable in the BIOS. It all seemed to work just fine until I rebooted. Upon hitting the login screen things went bad and the screen started alternately flashing blue and white or sometimes black and white. I reverted to my Windows 7 install so I could use the machine. Then I had the idea that it was a conflict with the switchable graphics so my next attempt was another in place upgrade but this time with the switchable graphics disabled in the bios. Everything worked fine and when the machine rebooted the login screen would appear as normal.

    Being adventurous I enabled switchable graphics and booted up the machine. It all worked fine on the first boot and upon logging in windows update installed the drivers for the intel card. I rebooted at that point and although the log in UI looked a bit weird I was able to see it and to log in. The switchable graphics tab appeared in the AMD Catalyst software and it appeared that switchable graphics was working. I noted that under the switchable graphics tab the loginui was locked to low power. This gave me the clue that maybe if I pulled the power the machine would stop trying to switch between the two graphic cards at the login UI (which is what I think may have been happening). It turned out I was right (at least so far). However I have not done sufficient testing to know if the switchable graphics works properly or not.

    My theory is that some component necessary to properly switch the graphics cards does not get loaded until after login to the desktop. With the power pulled the machine doesn't try to use the AMD card and this solves the flashing login UI problem. Just a theory on my part I have no proof other than the work around seems to work fine.

    I don't think my original install was bad and had I tried booting up on battery or pulling the power I think it would have worked fine.

    Hope this is useful for someone.
     
  5. Roamer55

    Roamer55 Notebook Geek

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Just a wick update. When you hit the login screen and see the flashing you can disconnect the power and once you see the login screen you can immediately reconnect the power and it will work fine from there on in.
     
  6. Roamer55

    Roamer55 Notebook Geek

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15
    After some experimentation its clear I have many or all the same issues that others have with the switchable graphics and windows 10, for example black screen on starting games. For now I mostly run on discreet graphics unless I am going to be using it on battery then I manually switch it in bios to switchable. Just an FYI in case anyone is still monitoring this thread.
     
  7. coffee4free

    coffee4free Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Hey guys,

    I'm new in this forum and using my 3820TG for about 5 years now.

    I installed an old HDD to do some test if windows 10 works well. I did the same about 2 months ago having some problems with the switchable graphics and also with the bluetooth device. But this time everything works pretty good. Let me tell you some details.

    For the switchable graphics I decided to unlock hidden BIOS features, so I can switch in BIOS to AMD only or Intel only, whatever I need. For me that's good enough until I use the notebook at home with an external hdmi monitor most of the time. For the monitor I always need the AMD graphics anyway and I'm sitting next to the power supply, so no need for switching to Intel. And when I use my notebook elsewhere, Intel graphics is good enough and I can switch to it in BIOS to increase battery life. I let windows 10 automatically install both drivers and they are working well. Asphalt 8 from windows store works perfectly, also on external display (2 month ago I had black screen on games from store). I'm not really a gamer but I will also do some test with league of legends next days until I play it sometimes when I feel boring ;-)

    Windows 10 always installs the latest AMD catalyst driver (maybe crimson in future?!). At the moment my GPU is displayed as HD 5000 series but it's a 6550M. I've read somewhere that maybe there is no DX11 support when recognized as 5650M (finally the same GPU) but if I run dxdiag it displays DX11 support so I guess it should work well. The only little problem that I have on AMD graphics is, that the brightness of the internal display can't be changed directly. But I found a little workaround for that: You can change brightness using fn + arrow keys as usual (you will see no change in brightness) and after that turn off the backlight with fn + f6. After turning it back on the brightness is changed to the new value. No big deal until I don't change brightness really often. Running on Intel graphics, I can change brightness as usual only with fn + arrow keys. Somewhere I've read that AMD is working on some windows 10 issues with their graphics driver (also for some old hybrid graphics like in 3820TG), so maybe there will be a fix for that brightness issue soon.

    2 months ago the bluetooth driver from acer homepage did not work for me. I was not able to install it and windows 10 itself did not find any driver for it. But the current version of windows 10 found the driver with windows update and it seems to work well now. And for those of you who are interested: Standby, WiFi and touchpad are working well and the battery life using Intel only graphics seems to be as good as before.

    But after all the good messages, there is also one that's slightly bad. If I run CPU-Z on windows 7, no TDP is shown. But if I run it on windows 10 it shows a TDP of 25W (usually my i5 480m should have 35W). This seems to cause lower CPU frequencies. When I stress my CPU with CPU-Z on windows 7 it always uses the maximum turbo frequency of 2.93 GHz on both cores and it never throttles down (max temps about 80°C). But on windows 10 both cores are running only on 2.8 GHz and sometimes go down to 2.67 GHz. HWMonitor shows power consumption of the CPU which most of the time doesn't exceed the 25W. Also temps are lower, about 75°C. So the lower TDP causes lower CPU turbo frequencies on permanent CPU load. Maximum turbo frequency of 2.93 GHz is only reached on peaks of load. Does anyone have an idea how to tell windows 10 that the CPU should work with 35W TDP?

    I think I will finally upgrade to windows 10 on my SSD within the next few weeks until most of the stuff works well. If somebody wants me to test anything, just let me know :)

    - the brand new coffee4free
     
    Bronsky likes this.
  8. EAPOCS

    EAPOCS Notebook Enthusiast

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Hello, after some time, I wanted to get my Acer 3820TG of the first generation some fresh updates. Haven't touched any drivers or anything since 2010.

    I wanted to use this notebook again.

    I unscrewed everything and cleaned the dies of both CPU and GPU with alcohol, applied fresh thermal paste.

    I ordered a Samsung Evo 850 SSD with 250GB, going to do a fresh Windows 7 Install.

    I also want to upgrade the ram, unfortunately it's 2x2GB installed, so neither modules will be further used.

    Now here comes the issue.
    It's a Intel HM55 chipset, which means max 8GB is supported, but only up to 256x8bytes configuration, which means dual-sided modules with 16 blocks each module is needed.

    The manufacturers don't give a **** and you simply can't tell either from the pics nor from the specs how the memory blocks are arranged.
    I had to send back my first order because it was only one-sided 512x8bytes config. Didn't even bother to install it.

    Anyone got the same problem and found a definitely working Ram?
    The Apple certified rams aren't a good indicator either, because usually they mean Macbooks starting from 2011, which supports 512x8bytes arrangements.

    I hope somebody still cares for this device and read the forum :p
     
  9. Roamer55

    Roamer55 Notebook Geek

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    15

    I used the following ram and it worked fine for Acer 3820TG:

    Corsair Apple 8GB Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1066 PC3 8500 204-Pin Laptop SO-DIMM Memory (CMSA8GX3M2A1066C7)

    Link to Amazon found here:
    http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00505EZYW/ref=pe_386430_30332290_TE_3p_dp_1

    It says its for apple computers but it is just standard laptop ram and it is the right specs for the 3820. Worked just fine.
     
  10. btld_ls1

    btld_ls1 Newbie

    Reputations:
    0
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    5
    I know this page is pretty dead now, but my 3820TG I bought from Bronski finally died, i believe it is the motherboard. Does anyone have a motherboard or a whole 3820TG for sale? I have had a new laptop for nearly a year (v15 nitro balck edition) but love the portability of the 13.3" 3820 so please let me know if anyone has parts or a computer, thank you!
     
    Bronsky likes this.
Loading...

Share This Page