Ultimate W3J Hardware Upgrade Tutorial

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This tutorial is for those lucky W3J owners who are considering upgrading, or replacing internal hardware parts inside the W3J. While this notebook is no longer manufacutred, there will be some who are considering upgrading the hardware to run Vista, or for those who have just purchased one at bargin prices!

To perform the upgrades, you will need a philips screwdriver, a credit card, and possibly some inspiration, like below:


(Figure 1: The tools you need)

Opening Underside Panel

1) Disconnect all power souces to the notebook. (Battery(s) & AC Power)

2) Close the notebook if you havent so, then flip it over so that the bottom is facing you, like below:


(Figure 2: Underside Panel)

3) Using the screwdriver, remove the 11 screws enclosed by a red box as above.

4) There is a little imprint/dent that allows you to slip your fingernails under to lift the panel up. Lift the panel up gently (at an angle), it should come off easily.

Once the panel is off, this is what you'll see:


(Figure 3: The result after taking panel off)

From the image above, you can see one of the RAM modules, enclosed by a blue box, and the Hard Disk, enclosed by a purple box.

Now we are ready for some fun!!! Click on a link below for a different advanture!

Installing/Removing RAM Modules (Slot 1)
Installing/Removing RAM Modules (Slot 2)
Hard Disk Drive Installation/Removal
CPU Installation/Removal
Extras

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Upgrading/Replacing RAM Modules (Slot 1)

Now that we have removed the panel, we can clearly see where the RAM is located. If you cant see it, here's a picture:


(Figure 4: RAM slot)

The picture above shows one of the RAM slots. The W3J has 2x RAM slots. The other slot is located directly below the keyboard. We will go into details on gaining access to the other RAM slot later, but for now, we will just concentrate on removing and installing RAM into the slot.

Removing RAM:

To remove the RAM module from the slot, gently push the locking mechanism outwards from the RAM module. The enclosed red boxes above show where you place your finger of choice to push it either left or right, at the same time.

If done correctly, the RAM module should popup in an angled direction, unsecured. All there is to do now is to remove the module.

Installing RAM:

To install a RAM module, simply insert the module in an angled direction, with the pins lower than the top of the module. The RAM module can only go in one way, and you can see from the image above that there is a notch near the top of the pins. This tells you that the pins are at the bottom. Now, look at the pins and you can see there is also a notch. The notch is not centered, so you will be able to tell from the slot which way the module is supposed to go in. Now gently insert the module into the slot, and the locking mechanism should lock it in place.

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Upgrading/Replacing RAM Modules (Slot 2)

The W3J has a second RAM slot that cannot be accessed directly from the bottom, like the first slot. The second slot is located beneath the keyboard. To access the second RAM slot, you will need to firstly remove the keyboard.

1) To remove the keyboard, you will need to remove 2 screws that are located at the bottom of the notebook. One of the screws is located in Figure 2, enclosed by a yellow box. The other screw is located below (Figure 5), also enclosed in a yellow box:


(Figure 5: One of the screw holes that holds the keyboard in place)

2) Once the 2 screws have been removed, flip the notebook over so you are facing the keyboard. The keyboard is still attached, held in place by 4 tabs that can be released by simply pressing on it using a thin, strong card. This is what one of the tabs look like (Figure 6), enclosed in a red box:


(Figure 6: Keyboard Locking Tabs)

There are 4 tabs placed along the functional rows of keys. One is located above the F1 key, shown in the diagram, another is located between F5 & F6, another at F10, and finally, one at the INS key.

3) Detach the keyboard from the notebook by pressing onto each of the 4 tabs with a card, like a credit card. Once all of the tabs are not visible from the top of the keyboard, you can remove it.

4) Remove the keyboard by lifting the top of it. It should come off easily. This is what you should see if done correctly (Figure 7):


(Figure 7: Keyboard deattached)

The keyboard is attached to a thin ribbon. You can disconnect it if you find it difficult to install/remove the RAM. However, its is very HARD to reconnect it again.

5) From the image above (Figure 7), we can see there is a shiny, silver, mirror like panel. This panel covers the other RAM slot. To remove this panel, side it to the left, then lift it up gently on an angle, then you should be able to remove it. If done correctly, this is what you should see (Figure 8):


(Figure 8: RAM cover removed)

6) Now you have access to the RAM slot. To remove/install the RAM module, follow the steps in Installing/Removing RAM Modules (Slot 1).

7) Reverse steps to finish the installation/removal.

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Hard Disk Drive Installation/Removal

The W3J supports PATA IDE Hard Disk Drives only, so if you are going to upgrade, make sure it is PATA IDE, and not the new incompatible SATA. As for SSD, there are some PATA IDE on the market already, but costs and arm and leg.

1) Follow the steps on opening the underside panel if you havent done so.

2) From Figure 2, we can see that the Hard Disk Drive is enclosed in a purple box. The HDD is covered in a BLACK flexible plastic so it does not short with the chassis.

To remove the HDD from its resting position, just grab and lift it up. Should be easily picked up as there are no screws attached to remove (Figure 9):


(Figure 9: The Hard Disk Drive)

3) From the picture above, remove the HDD ribbon cable from the HDD. This is shown in the enclosed red box above. Make sure you remove it gently, as not to bend any of the pins!

4) Now remove the BLACK plastic that is stuck onto the HDD. There is a line of glue at the top, and bottom of the plastic.

5) Stick the plastic onto the underside of the new HDD. The underside of the HDD is the side that does not have any diagrams, but instead has a green circuit board. Make sure you align the plastic so that it covers most of the board.

6) Now set the appropriate pins for the HDD. That is, do you want it on MASTER, SLAVE or CABLE SELECT? I just used the same settings as the original HDD I replaced.

7) Grab the ribbon cable, and compare with the picture below (Figure 10):


(Figure 10: HDD IDE Ribbon Cable)

You can see that one of the holes has been filled in, highlighted by a red box. The ribbon can only attach to the HDD pins in one way. Now look at the HDD pins, and see where the missing pin is. Now attach the ribbon cable to the HDD. If done right, this is what you should get (Figure 11):


(Figure 11: Align & Attach the ribbon to HDD)

Note the missing pin matches up to the filled hole.

8) Now place the HDD back into its original place.

9) Reinstall underside panel to complete HDD installation/removal.

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CPU Installation/Upgrade

This tutorial takes place right after you have taken off the back panel.

1) Remove the 3 screws highlighted in the picture below: (This will remove the X1600 Module, the pride and joy of every W3J owner!)



1a) After removing the 3 screws from the X1600 Module, remove the module. Remove the module using your Right Hand, and lift the module at an Angle. (You can see that there is a portion of plastic that prevents the module from being able to be lifted upwards directly - Battery Lock/Release)

The X1600 Module should look like this when you flip it over:



2) Now remove the FAN CABLE, as highlighted below:



3) Now remove the 4 screws that surround the CPU, as shown below: (Yellow sticker on one of the screws says "VOID IF BROKEN OR REMOVED" - There is no way to remove it without breaking it!)



3a) Now remove the entire Heatsink carefully. Entire heatsink should look like this after removal: (Lift the heatsink at an angle)



4) After removing the heatsink, you can now access your CPU. To replace the CPU, turn the highlighted button 180 degrees anti-clockwise to unlock the CPU as shown below. Now you can remove the CPU. (Use a flat-head screwdriver to turn it 180, or a credit card)



5) Reverse steps 1-4 to complete the process!


NOTES: Make sure you remove the old thermal paste attached to the heatsink of both CPU and VGA. Apply new thermal paste for both CPU and VGA. I used Artic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound, and used a damped cloth and tissues to remove the old thermal paste, and used a credit card to spread the new paste onto the CPU/VGA. You can use whatever you like, but do so at your own risk.

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Extras

Special thanks goes to: wettek & robohgedhang for their help with the CPU section!

I cannot be held responsible if this tutorial screws up your W3J. Do this tutorial at your own risk.

[coriolis]

Great guide!

Really nice pictures as well.

Thanks!

[El Penetrator]

Great post, can't believe you only got 1 reply after all that work.

[Silvr6]

Nice write up, reminds me of when i bought a spare heatsink unit and fan and modified it with a variable resistor so i could control the fan speed on the unit to make it whisper quiet

[robohgedhang]

Hee hee...