**Official Clevo W25AES / Sager NP3260 Owner's Lounge**

[userno69]

I saw somebody ask, and yes, there is an option to disable HT in the BIOS. As for the keyboard, I am a big fan of nice mechanicals myself. This keyboard certainly dosent compare with them, but it is what it is, and I have no complaints about it. Its definitely not the worst, although there is better.

Unless you're a real stickler about the keyboard, dont let it be a sticking point. Its really not bad. As for the touch pad, the other user has Linux and so I am assuming does not have the full multi touch functionality (no ELAN driver) aside from the basic tap to click. I like the touch pad A LOT, it is a lot better than my Asus N61. The multi touch vertical and horizontal scrolling is fantastic and it even has pinch to zoom, as well as a bunch of other things I don't really use.

[hastur]

I saw somebody ask, and yes, there is an option to disable HT in the BIOS.

Mythlogic uses a custom BIOS, there is no such option for the stock Clevo.

As for the keyboard, I am a big fan of nice mechanicals myself. This keyboard certainly dosent compare with them, but it is what it is, and I have no complaints about it. Its definitely not the worst, although there is better.

The key layout is extremely unintuitive (I find myself missing anything after M consistently), and no thought was given to ergonomics or key spacing... that there are worse keyboards around doesn't make me any happier typing on this one :P

As for the touch pad, the other user has Linux and so I am assuming does not have the full multi touch functionality (no ELAN driver) aside from the basic tap to click. I like the touch pad A LOT, it is a lot better than my Asus N61. The multi touch vertical and horizontal scrolling is fantastic and it even has pinch to zoom, as well as a bunch of other things I don't really use.

The horizontal scrolling and pinch zoom do function under Linux.

[userno69]

The horizontal scrolling and pinch zoom do function under Linux.

Really? That's good to know

How does it function though? On the Windows drivers, you can either have it so it scrolls when you move one finger along the edge of the touchpad, or it lets you scroll by moving two fingers simultaneously anywhere on the pad (like on a MacBook), which I like a lot better. Do both methods work on Linux?

Also I was not aware Mythlogic had a totally custom BIOS. Good to know as well!

[hastur]

On the Windows drivers, you can either have it so it scrolls when you move one finger along the edge of the touchpad, or it lets you scroll by moving two fingers simultaneously anywhere on the pad (like on a MacBook), which I like a lot better. Do both methods work on Linux?

There is an option for both in the Mint 13 mouse preferences.

Just got the screen a few minutes ago and'll install it after posting this. It's a few days late but that's what happens when you order before a national holiday. For reference the panel is a LP156WF1(TL)(B2) which retails for about $80 from various screen warehouses. I also managed to borrow a camera so everything's in place for the review.

Update: Got the screen in! Lovely colors and a good deal easier on the eyes.

[AlienUFO]

Cool. I have been away for some time. At least the keyboard can type and it seems okayish.

Nice that the multi-touch features works so nicely on the touch pad in Mint. That screen is very nice. Wish I could get such a screen. I will maybe import one in the future.

Now we just need some modded bios, that would give advanced features.

Thanks

[AlienUFO]

There is an option for both in the Mint 13 mouse preferences.

Just got the screen a few minutes ago and'll install it after posting this. It's a few days late but that's what happens when you order before a national holiday. For reference the panel is a LP156WF1(TL)(B2) which retails for about $80 from various screen warehouses. I also managed to borrow a camera so everything's in place for the review.

Update: Got the screen in! Lovely colors and a good deal easier on the eyes.

Did you need any special adapters for the new screen. Was the installation painless or was there a lot of crap you had to do. Have been looking around for that screen, and doesn't seem too expensive to get it here, so I might upgrade my laptop as well, when I get one.

Thanks

[hastur]

Did you need any special adapters for the new screen. Was the installation painless or was there a lot of crap you had to do. Have been looking around for that screen, and doesn't seem too expensive to get it here, so I might upgrade my laptop as well, when I get one.

It was quite painless really... and downright easy if you have another person to hold the panel while you screw it in. You might ask the reseller if they'll send the laptop without any screen, and then you could order the panel from this warehouse for under $100 shipped worldwide. I cannot stress enough how much of a difference that upgrade makes. I'd even say that the W25AES can't be a decent laptop without it.

When I replaced my screen I took a bunch of pictures so I'll post a tutorial here in a few hours. Sorry I haven't been active the last while :|

[hastur]

Tutorial: Replacing the Screen

Spoiler :

Currently there are three panels that Sager and others are using with the W25AES. Each are available in either matte or glossy finishes. The first does not get surface reflections which can be hard on the eyes, while the second displays slightly more vibrant colors. Here they are in order of quality:

LG LP156WH4(TL)(A1) ~ 1366x768 ~ stock
LG LP156WF1(TL)(B2) ~ 1920x1080 ~ 60% gamut
AUO B156HW01 V.4 ~ 1920x1080 ~ 95% gamut

To get started you'll need a medium phillips screw driver (magnetized hopefully as a lot of screws will be lost otherwise) and a small one, a razor or other thin blade, a flat head screw driver or similar prying device (used a nail file m'self), a clean cloth of at least 15 by 10 inches, and half an hour. Read this tutorial in full before starting!

First unplug the power cord and take out the battery. Then with the laptop right-side-up push back the display as far as it will go. The fact that it won't lie flat makes for some inconvenient acrobatics later so find yourself a helper! I have no friends so I ended up losing a screw

Next take your thin blade and pry the four screw covers off the front of the bezel. There's one in each corner and the bottom covers are really glued on there so stick at it. Once that's done take out the four screws. The small screw driver will likely be needed for the bottom two.



With the bezel unscrewed you can now dislodge it from the grey backing by putting your prying edge in the groove between the two. Start from the side and work your way along the top unsnapping the fasteners. For the bottom you'll have to do this from the screen side. The plastic is rather soft so make sure the flat head or whatever is as deep as it can be prior to turning the tool. Otherwise you'll scrape the bezel... barely noticable if you do though.

To part the bezel from the screen hinges close the laptop and pry them apart from the back as pictured.



Then open your W25AES and do the same with the front face of the hinges, pushing up and forward with your tool. Might not get it the first time.



So you don't lose heart as you pry, here's the end goal:



Next there are again four screws in each corner holding the metal screen frame to the backing. Remove the two silver ones first followed by the longer black screws at the bottom. When taking out the last, make sure to hold the backing and ease it to the new position it will assume when no longer secured. The metal frame however stays in place as it is attached to the hinges.



The panel is removed from the frame by taking out the four screws on either side. Put the cloth over the keyboard before you begin to protect the screen once you unscrew it. Start at the top and work your way down, alternating sides. When you get to the third last screw, the panel must be supported by one hand at the rear. For the second last you must hold the panel up. Then you can rest the freed top corner on the cloth in order to do the final one.



See that shiny video cable? Now it's time for the scary bit

That LVDS connector is fragile, especially toward the end with the pins. Don't treat it like you would ram, but at the same time it will not break if you blow on it. I was pretty clumsy when trying to reconnect the thing and it still worked fine.

First peel back the yellow tape from the cable end. To unplug the connector I found the simplest method was to grip both edges of the ribbon between two fingers, an inch above the copper, and then to pull backward combind with a wiggle or two. The included photo does not show this approach, but rather I needed to hold the cable down to take the shot.



Put the old panel aside and place the new one in the same position atop the cloth. Hit the stock glossy a few times with a hammer before continuing... you couldn't possibly resell it without losing eBay reputation. To replug the LVDS cable grip it just above the metal and insert the pins on a slight angle. Then holding the cable fast, place it flat and apply downward and forward pressure on the ribbon with your finger to slide those pins the rest of the way in.

The first time I tried to reconnect the video I did not get the pins completely out of sight. Thinking they were supposed to be like that, I closed everything up and on boot was greeted with the blackest of screens. Make sure your handiwork matches the picture below.



You may be wondering about the yellow tape. I believe that it was put there as a warning rather than to secure the LVDS connection, and did not replace it for my part. If you think otherwise, electrical tape would likely be the best sort to use.

Now that the screen's hooked up you just need to follow my instructions in the reverse. In short you must rescrew the panel to the screen frame, resecure the backing to that, squeeze the bezel on, and get those last four screws in. Stick the protectors back in with a little glue if they've dried out.

The one hitch I had was when the eighth frame screw refused to line up with its hole. I solved this by taking out the screw below it and fastening that one last.



Finally boot your ES up and enjoy the most distinctive upgrade you can do

[Eggs Scrambled]

It makes me sad there isn't much buzz about this laptop, I'm incredibly happy with the one I just received.

The screen is beautiful (1080p matte, non-gamut).
The finish looks very professional and discreet, not to mention how much I like the feel.
It runs incredibly quiet and cool under normal activity with optimus, 22nm ivy bridge and dual SSDs.
The gpu is a LOT more capable than many might realize, I was running with almost all high settings at 1080p playing max payne 3. It was a very smooth, very playable framerate.
The laptop itself is VERY light considering its capabilities. It feels almost half as heavy as my previous m860tu with its blazing hot 260m.

I was wary of getting the laptop, the lack of forum activity compared to the similar model with the 650m GT really seemed like a gamble, I was worried that the gpu would leave me wishing for more. I can't stress enough that this wasn't the case whatsoever, I'm elated that this gpu performs as well as it does. The 650m in the other model might run cooler if it is kepler, but I'm glad I didn't take the chance because frankly i don't need it to be more powerful.

I'm well aware of consumers tending to be happy with what they purchase to avoid buyer's remorse. I tend to be one who can never be satisfied with what I get almost as a rebellion against that way of thinking. Imagine my surprise when my immense skepticism is unfounded and I really did find the perfect one for me.

I recommend getting one of these WHOLEHEARTEDLY! Come to think of it, maybe there's a lack of forum activity for this guy because everyone's just so flippin' happy with theirs they don't need a support group?

[hastur]

Come to think of it, maybe there's a lack of forum activity for this guy because everyone's just so flippin' happy with theirs they don't need a support group?

More so the specs and stock BIOS don't attract NBR enthusiasts. The combination of overclocking, temperature modification, and benchmarking possibilities has made the W110ER thread what it is.

Me I've run out of practical things to post about... have a SATA extension cable on order for a makeshift external internal drive but that's about it. Deglossing the bezel is still on my list also.