Currently there are three panels that Sager and others are using with the W25AES. Each are available in either matte or glossy finishes. The first does not get surface reflections which can be hard on the eyes, while the second displays slightly more vibrant colors. Here they are in order of quality:
LG LP156WH4(TL)(A1) ~ 1366x768 ~ stock
LG LP156WF1(TL)(B2) ~ 1920x1080 ~ 60% gamut
AUO B156HW01 V.4 ~ 1920x1080 ~ 95% gamut
To get started you'll need a medium phillips screw driver (magnetized hopefully as a lot of screws will be lost otherwise) and a small one, a razor or other thin blade, a flat head screw driver or similar prying device (used a nail file m'self), a clean cloth of at least 15 by 10 inches, and half an hour. Read this tutorial in full before starting!
First unplug the power cord and take out the battery. Then with the laptop right-side-up push back the display as far as it will go. The fact that it won't lie flat makes for some inconvenient acrobatics later so find yourself a helper! I have no friends so I ended up losing a screw
Next take your thin blade and pry the four screw covers off the front of the bezel. There's one in each corner and the bottom covers are really glued on there so stick at it. Once that's done take out the four screws. The small screw driver will likely be needed for the bottom two.
With the bezel unscrewed you can now dislodge it from the grey backing by putting your prying edge in the groove between the two. Start from the side and work your way along the top unsnapping the fasteners. For the bottom you'll have to do this from the screen side. The plastic is rather soft so make sure the flat head or whatever is as deep as it can be prior to turning the tool. Otherwise you'll scrape the bezel... barely noticable if you do though.
To part the bezel from the screen hinges close the laptop and pry them apart from the back as pictured.
Then open your W25AES and do the same with the front face of the hinges, pushing up and forward with your tool. Might not get it the first time.
So you don't lose heart as you pry, here's the end goal:
Next there are again four screws in each corner holding the metal screen frame to the backing. Remove the two silver ones first followed by the longer black screws at the bottom. When taking out the last, make sure to hold the backing and ease it to the new position it will assume when no longer secured. The metal frame however stays in place as it is attached to the hinges.
The panel is removed from the frame by taking out the four screws on either side. Put the cloth over the keyboard before you begin to protect the screen once you unscrew it. Start at the top and work your way down, alternating sides. When you get to the third last screw, the panel must be supported by one hand at the rear. For the second last you must hold the panel up. Then you can rest the freed top corner on the cloth in order to do the final one.
See that shiny video cable? Now it's time for the scary bit
That LVDS connector is fragile, especially toward the end with the pins. Don't treat it like you would ram, but at the same time it will not break if you blow on it. I was pretty clumsy when trying to reconnect the thing and it still worked fine.
First peel back the yellow tape from the cable end. To unplug the connector I found the simplest method was to grip both edges of the ribbon between two fingers, an inch above the copper, and then to pull backward combind with a wiggle or two. The included photo does not show this approach, but rather I needed to hold the cable down to take the shot.
Put the old panel aside and place the new one in the same position atop the cloth. Hit the stock glossy a few times with a hammer before continuing... you couldn't possibly resell it without losing eBay reputation. To replug the LVDS cable grip it just above the metal and insert the pins on a slight angle. Then holding the cable fast, place it flat and apply downward and forward pressure on the ribbon with your finger to slide those pins the rest of the way in.
The first time I tried to reconnect the video I did not get the pins completely out of sight. Thinking they were supposed to be like that, I closed everything up and on boot was greeted with the blackest of screens. Make sure your handiwork matches the picture below.
You may be wondering about the yellow tape. I believe that it was put there as a warning rather than to secure the LVDS connection, and did not replace it for my part. If you think otherwise, electrical tape would likely be the best sort to use.
Now that the screen's hooked up you just need to follow my instructions in the reverse. In short you must rescrew the panel to the screen frame, resecure the backing to that, squeeze the bezel on, and get those last four screws in. Stick the protectors back in with a little glue if they've dried out.
The one hitch I had was when the eighth frame screw refused to line up with its hole. I solved this by taking out the screw below it and fastening that one last.
Finally boot your ES up and enjoy the most distinctive upgrade you can do