*HP dv6z AMD Llano (6XXX series) Owners Lounge*

[clarkkent57]

HP:

HP Pavilion dv6z Quad Edition customizable Notebook PC

Dark umber
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
System Recovery DVD with Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
AMD Quad-Core A8-3530MX Accelerated Processor (2.6GHz/1.9GHz, 4MB L2 Cache)
1GB GDDR5 Radeon(TM) HD 6750M Graphics [HDMI, VGA]
FREE UPGRADE to 6GB DDR3 System Memory (2 Dimm)
FREE UPGRADE to 640GB 5400 rpm Hard Drive with HP ProtectSmart Hard Drive Protection
9 Cell Lithium Ion Battery
15.6" Full HD HP Anti-glare LED (1920 x 1080)
SuperMulti 8X DVD+/-R/RW with Double Layer Support
HP TrueVision HD Webcam with Integrated Digital Microphone and HP SimplePass Fingerprint Reader
802.11b/g/n WLAN and Bluetooth(R)
Standard Keyboard with numeric keypad


Price: $1,003.99
Coupon: (NBT3886) –$301.20
Price after savings: $702.79

Amazon:

USB2.0 Slim DVD / CD RW Burner External Enclosure Caddy Case with SATA Connector For all Laptop Notebook dvd cd burner $7.69 + $4.49 shipping= $14.18

12.7mm Sata To Sata 2nd Hard Drive Hdd DVD Caddy For HP Pavilion DV4 DV5 DV6 DV7 HP G50 G60 G70 $14.99 Shipping & Handling: $6.95 $21.94

Sony NEC BC-5500S Blu-Ray Drive. 2x BD-ROM 8x DVD-ROM 24x CD-ROM 8x DVD+-R 4x DVD+-RW 4x DVD+-R DL 5x DVD-RAM/R and 24x10x16 CDRW ( used) Total Shipped $64.97

Newegg:

Corsair Force Series 3 CSSD-F120GB3A-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $129.99AR

Crucial 4GB 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) CT51264BF1339, shipped $17.99

Total: $951.86 (tax not included)

Now, optionally sell the:

SuperMulti 8X DVD+/-R/RW with Double Layer Support

System Recovery DVD with Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (after you made your own)

2GB DDR3 System Memory dimm


Now you've got the most-tricked-out version you can get with both the least work and least cost possible!

[Liquid Cool]

CK57,

If you could skip the Blue Ray...it'd be quite a bit cheaper, and perhaps sell the HDD on e-Bay, as I did for 72.99. Personally, I'll never use the Blue Ray in mine...maybe I should trade down? I'll check and see if it's profitable. The 2gb memory stick(Nanya), I let it sit on e-bay for 30 days @ 11.99 shipped. No luck.

I have exactly $540 into mine in my sig, just waiting on my Intel rebate.

Yes, I'm a tightwad...and proud of it. I'd probably admit to being a minimalist as well...



LC

P.S. I currently have my notebook hooked up to one of my P2412's through HDMI while waiting on an RMA from Intel that should be here tomorrow. IMO, the whole thing runs awesome from the 24" monitor. I haven't had the opportunity to see how well it will game on this except COD4(I keep it loaded all the time). Runs superb. I will mention, there was a 15% off coupon for the Dell Outlet center floating around a couple of weeks ago and the Dell 24"'s we're going in/out of stock. If a person watches, they can get these new 2412's for $163. Might take awhile of watching, but well worth the wait. I have used both the 11 series as well as the P2412's. They rock.

[rmacgowa]

Are you guys SURE we have a main SATA 3 connector? I am only getting 202 write and 141 read from my new Adata S510. Use HWINFO benchmark or AS SSD to check your speeds : Alex Intelligent Software - Downloads

My HWINFO64 says SATA 3 but I am pretty sure that this is from the controller on the DRIVE itself. I am clearly getting SATA 2 speeds.

I swear I start to regret buying the cheaper model of this laptop more and more every day....

[clarkkent57]

CK57,

If you could skip the Blue Ray...it'd be quite a bit cheaper, and perhaps sell the HDD on e-Bay, as I did for 72.99. Personally, I'll never use the Blue Ray in mine...maybe I should trade down? I'll check and see if it's profitable. The 2gb memory stick(Nanya), I let it sit on e-bay for 30 days @ 11.99 shipped. No luck.

I have exactly $540 into mine in my sig, just waiting on my Intel rebate.

Yes, I'm a tightwad...and proud of it.



LC

LOL! Hey, I'm a tightwad too!

I'm a long-time eBayer and the trick to getting rid of something you don't need at the best price is actually to list it for 99 cents plus free shipping.

The psychology behind it is that people invest @ the low start price, and then when more than one person is interested, the price usually goes up close to the level of retail (and sometimes beyond) because they just want to win it regardless. So far, I haven't had a no-sell yet with that approach.

When you consider that the cost of the dv6-6135dx refurb is $500 (if you could still get one) plus the hard drive and a DIY screen upgrade (which is going to be hard to do now that there's a wait on cables), you're looking at a total of $800, and you don't get the deluxe A8 processor, 9 cell battery, or bluetooth.

Consequently, what you get out of the deal at that point is worth it...

But...you can always sell the Blu-ray drive and hard drive too, if you don't want the spare storage or the ability to play Blu-Ray disks. (I do, because my friends have a ton of them I can borrow, and, hey, the ripped file has to go somewhere). So, you should be able to sell both for what you paid for the SSD, and that knocks you back down to the $700 purchase price of the dv6z.

(Buy the enclosure for the Blu-ray and you might be able more than recoup the cost of the enclosure...because the external drive is more attractive and more likely to sell at a better price.)

I'm actually going to need a second laptop, and I am considering it! (On the road, I use one portable laptop for business, and the other as a stationary HTPC in the hotel.) But I have to get rid of this behemoth of a HDX18T first. It weighs more than two of these dv6's.

[yarez3]

Hi, time to welcome the newest owner of a dv6z quad edition!

I just have one question about overclocking and undervolting. My system has the A8-3530MX with the Radeon 6750M (and 8GB of RAM, if that matters) I just upgraded from an old acer with a pentium dual-core and a GMA 4500M (not HD) so I'm pretty new to the world of overclocking, especially with AMD hardware. A friend of mine who has this laptop suggested that I use MSI Afternurner (or ATI Tray Tools) to set the Core clock to 800, and the memory clock to 900, and undervolt to .955V. Would this be a good idea? I usually trust him, but I just want to get a solid conformation from others who really know what they're doing. I plan on using the default profile for moderate and school use, but I want an extra push of power for gaming. Also, would this cause issues with crossfire? Are there any other consequences I should know about? I know I'm asking a ton of questions, but I just want to be absolutely sure I won't wreck my computer while trying for a few extra fps in battlefield 3, as the rest of my life is on this thing. (also, searching through 429 pages looking for a similar answer doesn't seem like a very effective use of time, haha) Thanks a lot for the help!

[baiii]

Are you guys SURE we have a main SATA 3 connector? I am only getting 202 write and 141 read from my new Adata S510. Use HWINFO benchmark or AS SSD to check your speeds : Alex Intelligent Software - Downloads

My HWINFO64 says SATA 3 but I am pretty sure that this is from the controller on the DRIVE itself. I am clearly getting SATA 2 speeds.

I swear I start to regret buying the cheaper model of this laptop more and more every day....

There is alot of tricks to do to get a SATA3 speed, check out the SSD brand forum and SSD forum here. But sequential speed dont have much to do with RL usuage. Some even say none of the bench mean anything in RL use.(Popular belief is random 4k read/write)

Post a SS of your bench on those forum and people will guide you.

I have a low end SATA3 speed on my c300 atm.

[baiii]

Hi, time to welcome the newest owner of a dv6z quad edition!

I just have one question about overclocking and undervolting. My system has the A8-3530MX with the Radeon 6750M (and 8GB of RAM, if that matters) I just upgraded from an old acer with a pentium dual-core and a GMA 4500M (not HD) so I'm pretty new to the world of overclocking, especially with AMD hardware. A friend of mine who has this laptop suggested that I use MSI Afternurner (or ATI Tray Tools) to set the Core clock to 800, and the memory clock to 900, and undervolt to .955V. Would this be a good idea? I usually trust him, but I just want to get a solid conformation from others who really know what they're doing. I plan on using the default profile for moderate and school use, but I want an extra push of power for gaming. Also, would this cause issues with crossfire? Are there any other consequences I should know about? I know I'm asking a ton of questions, but I just want to be absolutely sure I won't wreck my computer while trying for a few extra fps in battlefield 3, as the rest of my life is on this thing. (also, searching through 429 pages looking for a similar answer doesn't seem like a very effective use of time, haha) Thanks a lot for the help!

I think your friend is refering to the mac version, most of our card cant hit 800 core. ( We have like 1 guy in 400s page)
I tried ATI tray tool, iirc, It cant detect the dual graphic so it doesnt work.

[rmacgowa]

There is alot of tricks to do to get a SATA3 speed, check out the SSD brand forum and SSD forum here. But sequential speed dont have much to do with RL usuage. Some even say none of the bench mean anything in RL use.(Popular belief is random 4k read/write)

Post a SS of your bench on those forum and people will guide you.

I have a low end SATA3 speed on my c300 atm.

Well if you run HWinfo and do a benchmark of your SSD, what speeds do you get? If I was getting over SATA 2 speeds I would agree with you, but my highest result was 275mb, which is the cap for the SATA 2. People with the drive in other comps are getting 500-550 speeds

[baiii]

Well if you run HWinfo and do a benchmark of your SSD, what speeds do you get? If I was getting over SATA 2 speeds I would agree with you, but my highest result was 275mb, which is the cap for the SATA 2. People with the drive in other comps are getting 500-550 speeds

322/65 read/write

those sound like raid0 speed?
edit: i just checked they say max is 500ish so 500+ is possible w/o raid. Probably try get latest SATA driver and do the tricks.(write cache on and other I cant remember)

Just notice Adata dont have a official forum so I guess your best bet is post in NBR, worst is RMA and try a new one.

[rmacgowa]

Well thats SATA 3 for sure... ur getting WELL over what I am. My fear is that im running the A60m FCH chipset and cheaper motherboard and you are running the A70m FCH. Perhaps my motherboard is gimped....