SWEET guide and AWESOME pics man!!!!
SWEET guide and AWESOME pics man!!!!
FunnyX, thanks for all the informations & pics.
I have a faulty dv2000 notebook with Intel chip & nvidia geoforce7200m, was wondering if the dv2000 you dissembled has the same motherboard as mine:
Hp replacement electronic part: 417035-001
Motherboard (system board) without memory - Full-featured (FF), nVIDIA G72M-Z PCI Express x16 lane graphic controller.
Could you please list the Hp replacement no. of dv2000 dissembled?
Thanks in advance :)
In an attempt to clean the heatsink/fan assembly(overheat issue), I found one screw that would not unscrew totally and one screw head that appeared to be stripped (the laptop was previously serviced by HP and I assume it was stripped by one of their techs). Any suggestions on how to remove a stripped screw?
Ok, so I did this to my computer because I had noticed temperatures were very hot all under the computer and I stopped feeling any kind of breeze coming out of the exhaust. So I did this DIY and found the entire exit fins covered in dust.
So I cleaned everything out, and after assembling back together the computer runs so much cooler. My only problem is that the horrible motor sound is still there. There is also no air being "pushed" out trough the exhaust. I'm guessing the bearings on the motor on the motor itself might of failed from the extensive periods of high heat.
Here is a video I made.
I have a 3 year old compaq v2000 series that has been running hot. Just today I took it apart and cleaned. I chose to replace the gel/aluminum square because I think it was too old. The aluminum piece even had black marks on it like it was burnt.
I put arctic silver brand ceramic compound in place of this and my system temperature dropped from 63 degrees to 52.
While I was cleaning i broke the cmos battery and had to solder it back in place. :eek:
I know you have posted the way to disassembly HP DV2000
However, I have a new problem I just got the laptop about
There is a high pitch to sound coming from around the fan around,
and where is plug in the power cord the screen keep going bright
and then bim.. and the battery sign show that it is plug in AC then
switch back to battery and keep do that.
Also when I plug in the AC power cord the funny sricking noise or
high pitch noise from the computer [around the fan and where the
AC power plug into].
Thanks I welcome again suggestion right now..
you can email me on email@example.com or just reply.... i guess
I don't know if you still monitor this thread, but I hope so.
A friend had a dv2210us that died last July(out of warranty, but they replaced the mb at no charge anyway). Within two months it was shutting off every 10 minutes or so. He got fed up with it, and went and bought a new one(Acer).
He just gave it to me, said if I could fix it I could have it. It looks brand new, but it was idling at 70 degrees(plugged in), and 62(on battery), and opening Firefox shot it up to 85. Unacceptable...I've done pc repair and networks for almost 20 years, but I NEVER in a million years would have attempted this job without your most excellent guide. Now I understand why replacing a lappy mb is an expensive job, although I guess if you work on the same model over and over, you could probably do it much more quickly.
Anyway, once I got the heatsink off, I was shocked at the amount of thermal paste that was slathered everywhere! It looks like they used a whole frickin tube, dripping it all over the processor, the socket, the mb, etc...
Unfortunately, my heat problem is with the gpu, not the proc. I was hoping that I could clean the gpu and apply some of my own thermal paste(in the proper amount), but I see how thick that green pad is that covers the gpu. I'm afraid that if I remove it and apply some paste that the heat sink won't even make contact.
I guess my question is...if I remove that pad, will the heatsink, once screwed back on, even touch the gpu? I can't really tell by looking at it. Has anyone tried this with any success? The fan is clean, so all I have really accomplished is learning how to keep track of a ton of tiny screws...
That pad just doesn't look very capable of transferring much heat, and the fact that these models are dying by the thousands seems to bear that out.
I hope to hear back, and I PRAY that this thing works when I get it put back together.
Well, its back together and everything seems to be 'functioning within normal parameters'...hehe
It's still outrageously hot. It was at 53 on startup, but all I had to do was start the screensaver and it kicked up to 61.
I don't even want to do any gaming. I would be happy with firefox and visual studio. I just cannot have it shutting down in the middle of a compile. Is there anything else I can do to cool that gpu? Maybe replace that little rubbery pad with a 'better' version?
If I thought it would help I would buy a new motherboard, I see new ones on ebay for a hundred bucks. Now that I know what I'm doing, I can replace it in a half an hour...I just dont want to end up with another disfunctional chipset.
You can do a copper heatsink mod. On dv6000's the chipset uses one of thoes little pads to fill the gap. The copper heatsink mod is putting a small peice of copper inbetween the heatsink and the chipset/video card and putting thermal paste on both sides. I did it and it reduced my temperatures 20°C
Great guide! I lowered my max temps by 15°C.