Best place to buy an HP, How to get all your money back,and make sure mfg bears the brunt of the loss, instead of the reseller!

[WeAreNotAlone]

EDIT Mar-3-3-2007-

It appears Costco is revamping their return policies on electronics.

(Bummer, as I had hoped other vendors would be forced to do so as well. This is bad news for ALL of us guys-)

PC's now have a 90 day return window, instead of 180, BUT they have extended (DOUBLED) the mfg's warranty from 1, to 2-years...

Disregard any reference to 180 days- put 90 in it's place as of 3-3-2007 from here on out in the below posts.

Sad to see the 180 return window go, but at least the warranty period has been doubled.

CHECK THIS LINK, as in everyplace except Ca you still will have the 180-day return window on any purchases made in the next few weeks :






NOTE, there are tech tips several posts below that should be of interest to all. Please excuse the misleading thread title as after about a month with no replies to this thread I decided to use this thread (since it was dead) as a holding area for tech tips...

Before you dismiss the below, saying you'd prefer to do business with (insert name here) consider that:
1: Laptops have a much higher rate of failure than desktops.
2: They have VERY SHORT production cycles
3: Are used to test new ideas, hardware.... New idea's, hardware that in some cases don't "play-nice" (work together)
4: Alot of times "problems" don't appear right away, or are noticed during the standard 21-day return window.
(Read section on tolerance stacking below)

I think one source saying they have a failure rate of like 30% (within 2 years).. another source I read the other day saying the industry return rate to be 41%, but that fiqure was both the failure rate, regular returns...

What concerns me is that from hanging around here and other places I've been reading posts from people going thru multiple units to get a "good" one, and that once past your "return window" you're at the mercy of the mfg... Or should I say the company that has contracted with the ODM /OEM to make a unit for them, them themselves never making the product, only marketing it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Origina...n_Manufacturer
Market Research Firm iSuppli issued a report in 2006 which demonstrated that 82.6% of PC notebooks are made in Taiwan by Taiwanese OEM's and ODM's. As of 2006, the top 10 ODM's for notebook computers in terms of market share were

1.Quanta Computers 28.7% (HQ:Taiwan)
2.Compal Electronics 18.2% (HQ:Taiwan)
3.Wistron 9.2% (HQ:Taiwan)
4.Asustek 6.9% (HQ:Taiwan)
5.Inventec 4.9% (HQ:Taiwan)
6.Uniwill 3.1% (HQ:Taiwan)
7.Mitac 2.0% (HQ:Taiwan)
8.Foxconn 1.5% (HQ:Taiwan)
9.Samsung 1.5% (HQ:South Korea)
10.Arima 1.5% (HQ:Taiwan)


As a case in point about going thru multiple units I had to go to Sam's and Costco last week... while at Costco I was looking at the offerings... Looking at a dv9xxx variant...

While there looking at it a older gentlemen comes up and we start talking.... He seemed to be into computers more so than the average person, him saying he was into photo editing, and had run benchmarks on his system... Knew that problems appear 2-3-4 months down the road and then your stuck with dealling with the mfg, He said he had called HP and said he was not impressed. He mentioned in reference to dv8xxx's he had the dv8000 keyboard problem.. a bad display on one, and something else wrong on unit#3..
(Display stopped working about two months into ownership he said.)

Guess what else he said?...
He said he was mightly glad he bought from Costco as he's gone thru 3, (or maybe 4 dv8xxxx's).... and I think he said he's been thru 2 dv9xxx's to get (1) good one.
(he was happy with the last unit)...

He said that the 180-day return window was important to him. If it is to you depends on the price of course.... and how much you fiqure your time is worth to try to get a unit "repaired"... vs just having the option to get the unit replaced outright...


**********************************

Preface:

First of all, let me make one thing perfectly clear... I do not work for, own stock in, or otherwise profit from YOU buying a unit from any of the vendors below... unlike others here that do.
My only concern is that those vendors with the longest return window remain in business, grow in market share... and those that don't, don't.

*************************************

This thread is an attempt to point people who are "in the market" to what I think is the best vendor for buying a PC from and how to return the unit so it is marked properly upon a return so the mfg takes the loss, instead of the vendor.
The reason this is important is because there are very few vendors that offer a 180 day return window, and we as consumers need to make sure that those vendors are :

A: Supported
B: Don't take the loss on returns... Otherwise over time they will reduce the length of their return window, which will leave you at the mercy of the mfg.

(Note that if you don't have the vendors mentioned below in your country the below info still applies so read on.)
* * * * * *

First of all lets start this off with a listing of vendors, and the return windows they offer.
Disregard the below references to the 180-day return window offered by COSTCO if you've found a unit at like 50% off and you "feel lucky".

COSTCO =180 days, get ALL your money back
COSTCO- in store, or via the net at www.COSTCO.com)
You can buy units in store (pre-built models)... or go online www.costco.com and either CTO a machine.. OR buy a prebuilt..(CTO=Custom to Order, comes DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA in about 7-10 days from time order is placed.)

Sams-180 days, but (aka SamsClub- a division of the evil Wal-Mart empire, Puts small businesses out of business when they come to town and uses every dirty trick in the book. http://www.tenspeed.com/store/index....a9b1ec688cea06


HP Shopping (Buying from HP directly)=7/14 (Asia Market),21 days USA

Best Buy =30?
CircuitCity=30?
OfficeDepot=30?
OfficeMax=
Staples=
NewEgg.com


I am of the mindset that we (the consumers) need to support those companies that offer the longest return windows on products as there are alot of issues that are only discovered or become a problem after the grace period, be it 7/14 (Asia market!), or 21/30 days.
(read section on tolerance stacking below!!)

In the case of HP notebooks from the thousands of posts I've read and my personal experience it is very important to find a company that has a LONG return window on the "CONSUMER" models that HP offers.

One of the biggest reasons to look for a long return window is the Consumer, or Home line is used as a testing bed for new, unproven ideas and unproven parts that have VERY short production cycles.... Add to that they are pushed to market sometimes before they are ready it seems to meet a certain time period such as Back to School or the Christmas shopping season, Or to beat another competitor to market. Got to get your product "out there" to gain market share you know.

While I'm all for cutting edge, there are problems that arise from such short production runs. New models+ parts= ideas+ People at the factories not finding out till 3/4 the way thru the production run xyz part needs a redesign = problems.
Some problems never being fixed... the mfg hoping that thru attrition + time +units going out of warranty that they don't have to fix those problems. The mfg knowing that once the item does go out of warranty not many people are going to pay their price to get it repaired, once they compare the cost to repair against the cost of a "new" machine.

Here's some info from someone that works on /owns a shop in reference to HP, and the current models:

www.ikenfixit.com

HP's are still the number one failed machine in our shop (percentage wise, taking into account numbers sold) and I believe this will remain as such.. They manufacture more laptops than anybody else and the technology is NOT up to par so to say. Were getting in brand new lappy's w/FET issues, Rectifier diodes failing,Caps shorting, Jacks failing, Video chipset failure, Co-processor as well as Controller chip failure. Taiwan will never "man" a good board for this company unless they pull the plugs and get to the basics in engineering. Get off your HP And spend some money on the basics. You can sell numbers, Show a profit, Tell the consumer everything is fine but guess what? I'm the little guy in the trenches and right down to inferior oscillators in the video circuits To the basic being under-amp for adapters and Schottkey rectifiers, You are selling trash..

Now, with the above being said by someone who works on these things everyday and is trained in such, How many of you guys which are gung-ho on buying from HP and think 21 days or whatever is enough to test out a unit ever heard of something called: "Tolerance Stacking"?

Google "Tolerance Stacking" if you don't know what it is.

"Tolerance Stacking"
For those that don't know all parts have a certain range in which they will operate, and the total of all the parts tolerance being added up is tolerance stacking.

When a unit is "new" a unit that may have parts that are on the "limit" may operate during your 7/14, or 21/30 day exchange period, but then fail after that as the parts go further out of spec. A "good" unit will have parts right in the "middle" of the specs, or on the low end... and will run a longggggg time...
(If the mfg is using high quality components!!!)

If you're still unclear about "Tolerance Stacking" Google something call "BluePrinting" in reference to race cars.... When "blueprinting" an engine all the specs are made to be in the "perfect" range... the car will run faster and break down less than a car that has not been blueprinted. In a normal car that car will run longer, get better gas mileage, perform better.... plus last longer...


Getting back to computers, you may indeed get a "good" one, then again not. If you don't you will be thanking me later if you chose to buy from COSTCO.

A product is no good than the service after the sale, and frankly to make a long story short HP's "repair" service and their general treatment of customers leaves alot to be desired to put it nicely.

* * * * *



Here's the deal about COSTCO:

You can buy units in store (pre-built models)... or go online www.costco.com and either CTO a machine.. OR buy a prebuilt..
(CTO=Custom to Order, comes DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA in about 7-10 days from time order is placed.)

Prices on the whole are cheaper than if ordered direct from HP in most cases.. and in those cases that they aren't... the 180 day return window more than makes up for any small price differances.

Most of the time the COSTCO site will mirror the HP site, each item being alittle cheaper on the Costco site.... at least on the CTO machines. HP runs special sometimes, or offers a "free" printer /a bundle that Costco may not carry. Keep in mind the reason they give you a free printer is because the printer more than likely is one of those models with the little dinky ink cartidges that are going to eat you alive in ink costs. That's why they give you that free printer.

Check them out, and compare....

BTW, If you find a great deal somewhere else, or own stock in HP like alot of posters around here have let it "slip" from time to time or work for HP and feel the need to buy from HP, or (insert the name of your company here).... go ahead.
.


Section 2, Returns.... Returning a unit so the mfg (HP) bears the loss instead of the vendor. (Costco in this case)

For those who do end up returning a unit to COSTCO, make SURE that it is stated that the unit has a PROBLEM, that it is defective, that it is marked NON-RESALEABLE... so the loss is billed back to HP.... so HP takes the loss.

Returns should be reserved for cases in which the mfg is not working with you on a "repair", is jerking you around on a unit in warranty...

Keep in mind that if you return a unit thru Costco that it's not defective in some way, it's marked "resaleable" and it's sold off to a salvage company for 30 cents on the dollar in most Costco's. (which means a huge loss)

From the info I have, 0-21 days Costco gets a full credit back for any return, working or not working. (Not surpising since the HP return window is 21-days)

From 21 thru the 180th day Costco bears the loss on any return, (taking a huge loss btw) the units being sold off to a salvage company for like 30 cents on the dollar, if they are marked "resaleable"..... It is only if the unit is DEFECTIVE in some way and is marked non-resaleable that COSTCO gets credited back from the 21st thru the 180-day.

The reason it's important that you do return a unit correctly and not abuse that return policy is COSTCO is one of the few places that do offer an extended return window... and I would hate Costco to put further restrictions on returns.
(Costco used to be unlimted on the time frame for computer returns.)


For those planning on buying thru HP directly.... unless they are running like a 1/2 off sale I'd go thru Costco since Costco's return window is 180 days... and HP's is 21. If the prices are anywhere close you'd be a fool to buy anywhere else IMO. After 21 days if you buy thru HP, you're at their mercy.


Examples of why you'd want to purchase thru a vendor with a 180 day return window, this is a very small sampling, but should give you an idea what to expect, what to prepare for if your unit needs service, or needs to be swapped out.

HP has no CD/DVD replacement till Feb. 7, 2007 (todays date 11-29-2006)
Poster has done a "restore /recovery" as per HP tech support, wiping drive clean, putting unit back to as-shipped condition to verify it is a hardware problem, now can't install needed apps back onto the machine -

http://forum.notebookreview.com/show....php?p=1685217

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else? -MAKE SURE TO READ THRU THIS THREAD, and ask yourself if you'd want to be in the same boat as these poor souls...

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else?

OWNERS OF HP NOTEBOOKS WITH DEFECTIVE KEYBOARDS (dv8000 & dv5000 & equivalent models) reporting page. (Mods here trying to work up a database of owners with problematic keyboards, getting poor service from HP...)

http://forum.notebookreview.com/anno...t.php?f=3&a=11


More HP Horror

HP Not honoring extended warranty claims: having warranty issues with HP over my ZV5346us laptop....
having warranty issues with HP over my ZV5346us laptop....

............................................................................



Why should people care if Costco takes a loss? / that a problem is slated as the reason for the return so the MFG takes the loss instead?

Two reasons:

1: Well indirectly such losses affect us all in the form of higher prices, further restrictions on returns...
(Costco used to have a lifetime return window on computers, but college age kids mostly would buy a machine, use it for 6 months for a class, then return it, demanding their money back after using the machine for "free" for 6 months.)

2: I'm of the mindset that if there is a problem, the MFG should be charged back the loss, not the reseller... here's an example in which the mfg should bear all costs: DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else?

It's only right on a defective unit (or model) that the mfg take the loss... and "helps" to speed up a "fix" to a problem (like noted above) to a model that is "problematic".


Bottom line is don't return a unit, unless you have exhausted all options.. and be sure to state there is a problem with the unit, so it's not marked resaleable... Otherwise you can expect in the future further restrictions on returns, hassles, and increased prices...


BTW: If anyone has an "insider info" on how HP credits back vendors on product, please feel free to comment if any of the sections are in error (PM me with the data). I don't work for Costco, all the info above is from several conversations with management regarding how Costco handles returns.
.

[WeAreNotAlone]

.
Which is the limiting factor if I'm a "gamer"? GPU, or the CPU?
On most systems the GPU - aka "the Video card" is going to be the limiting factor. Read thru below links.

The Mobile Graphics Card Info Page **READ BEFORE POSTING**
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=39568


Mobile Graphics Cards - Benchmark -See where your card ranks speed wise

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-...ist.844.0.html

Mobile laptop GPU comparison chart

http://www.killernotebooks.com/suppo...bile_gpus.aspx

The Mobile Graphics Card Info Page

http://forum.notebookreview.com/show....php?p=1246649


Upgrading a Graphics Card?
Upgrading a Graphics Card? <<<Read Before Posting>>>

Notebook Video Graphics Card Guide 2006
Notebook Video Graphics Card Guide 2006



*****************************************

DVI, HDMI AND HDCP DEFINED

DVI, HDMI AND HDCP DEFINED

DVI, launched in 1999, is a purely digital interface that transmits visual data from a source device to a display. With DVI, there is no digital-to-analog or analog-to-digital conversion that needs to take place before, during or after transmission. This streamlined, straightforward process makes DVI superior to other interface connectors, such as analog.

Inferior Analog

With due respect to the common analog transmission technologies (VGA, XGA, SVGA, UXGA), DVI is generally considered to be the better transmitter primarily because analog is sensitive to the phase changes of cable. Simply stated, the analog picture cannot be reproduced as accurately as the digital one, particularly at distances. Analog cables are also generally more intolerant to environmental conditions and can add “noise” among other anomalies.

USB and FireWire

There are two other data transmission interfaces that are competing with DVI’s preferred status: IEEE 1394 FireWire and USB (universal serial bus) 2.0. Yet both of these use some form of compression. When a signal is compressed, transmitted and then uncompressed, it has more potential for difficulty than one that is sent uncompressed, like DVI. Although both FireWire and USB are often used to connect cameras and other DTV (digital television) devices, neither is the format of choice for large panel high definition displays.

DVI’s Reign

DVI emerged as the preferred connector because it’s purely digital. This means the integrity of the video signal remains true through any transmission, even long distances. You may have heard that DVI is limited to 5-meters in distance, according to the DVI 1.0 specifications. But with solid soldering techniques, using low capacitance, thicker DVI cables and fiber optic interface technologies, the distance of DVI transmission is not limited and can extend as far
as 500-meters from the source to the display.

HDCP: No More Piracy

With the advent of DVI, however, came HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection), a standard "key" encoded into the DVI signal to prevent video data from being pirated. HDCP was strongly endorsed by the entertainment industry. If a source device is HDCP coded and is connected to a HDTV display or projector via DVI without the proper HDCP decoding mechanism, the picture is relegated to "snow" or in some cases, a very low (480P) resolution. In order to see HDTV with HDCP compliance, both the source and display devices must be equipped with DVI connections that can enable HDCP using "software key" decoding.

The New HDMI

Now enters HDMI (high definition multimedia interface), a new connector that bases itself on the DVI-HDCP model. HDMI with HDCP addresses the concerns of the Hollywood film community while providing consumers the ability to view high quality content on all HDTV displays and projectors. It also offers several features that make it perfectly suited for the consumer electronics market:

- supports uncompressed high definition video plus multi-channel audio in a single cable using a smaller connector that eliminates the need for multiple cables in home entertainment systems, simplifying installation and eliminating cross technology confusion.

- transmits uncompressed digital video so that the picture maintains a high quality of color depth, brightness and contrast.

- supports Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) based on the AV.link protocol so it can be controlled with a universal remote that is used with multiple HDMI sources such as DVD players or satellite set-top boxes.

- supports bi-directional communication between devices, allowing the DTV to communicate its preferred audio/video formats to the set-top box, and the set-top box to communicate what video format it is providing to the display. This enables the DTV to make intelligent decisions on how to render any given image in the format designated by the original film providers.

- supports every uncompressed standard, enhanced and high definition video format ranging from 480I to 480P, 720P, 1080I and 1080P as well as existing PAL formats.

- has the bandwidth to support compressed audio formats such as Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital EX, DTS, DTS EX and uncompressed formats (PCM audio) up to eight channels, up to 192kHz, up to 24-bits.

- supports most standard PC monitor formats, such as VGA, XGA and SXGA—all in a single HDMI cable.

- extends as far as 500-meters using proper cabling techniques. In most commercial and home theater installations, the consumer electronics components are installed in a closet or basement far from the actual displays. This makes cable length an important feature for consumers and installers.

Because of these advantages, HDMI is expected to become the standard digital interface for consumer home theater devices, computers systems
and DTVs. Already, HDMI is being featured on Silicon Image's new PanelLink Cinema chipset providing HDMI with HDCP for a high definition
content-ready solution, and consumers will likely see HDMI connectors on new electronics devices for many years to come.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/support/dvihdmi.jsp

*******************************************************

What is HDCP?

What is HDCP?

HDCP stands for High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a copy protection scheme to eliminate the possibility of intercepting digital data midstream between the source to the display. The format designed by Intel and licensed by Digital Content Protection, LLC using an authentication and key exchange procedure before video and audio is presented. Products compatible with the HDCP scheme such as DVD players, satellite and cable HDTV set-top-boxes, as well as few entertainment PCs requires a secure connection to a compliant display, the process often described as the handshake. Due to the increase in manufacturers employing HDCP in their equipment, it is highly recommended that any HDTV you purchase is compatible. Although most video devices support high-definition video over component output, analog connections are scheduled to phase out in the future or possibly forced to limited resolutions output.

Why is it important to me?

Although manufacturers are still making most products with at least component HD output, new generation of products like HD-DVD and Blu-Ray devices will limit the analog output resolution (Analog defined as Component or RGBHV). The highest resolutions these devices can output (720p/1080i/1080p) will be available on via the digital (DVI or HDMI) connections that employ HDCP encryption. Any new HDTV purchase should have a digital HDCP compatible input.

It is important to note that HDCP is currently not a standard used in PC monitors, and almost none of these displays have Component inputs. Although PC monitors are HDTV capable, HDCP encryption limits this type of use. If you use an HTPC and want to ensure dual use of your new flat panel display, look for HDCP compatibility.



How does it work?

A simple answer is that an HDCP session will result in the exchange of keys between the source and display device. The source device will query the display to make sure that the equipment is HDCP compliant before video is shown. Non-HDCP devices such as PC's and older model DVI products will work with any DVI compliant display, but the HDCP compliant boxes will show an image only on HDCP compliant display.

Other products affected by HDCP are scalers, switchers, and splitters (distribution amps). While these devices do no authentication for key exchange, they must be able to transmit the presence of HDCP if the video is handled (processed) in any way. Due to the two different formats of digital connections, occasional inability for proper communications may result in loss of interoperability. The newer format, HDMI was designed to be backwards compatible with DVI and in most instances, the two signal types are easily adaptable, but older devices may not always work well with in-line devices like scalers or switchers. These problems can sometimes be fixed in "firmware' although that is not always the case. Incompatibility is often displays on-screen as a snowy image or an error message. http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_12.asp



Defining High-Definition and HD-Ready TV
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_6.asp
What programs are available on Digital and High-Definition TV
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_11.asp
HDTV Decoders and Set-Top-Boxes
http://www.digitalconnection.com/Archive/HDTV_8.htm
Standard or Widescreen Aspect Ratio
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_7.asp
What's the Frequency, Kenneth?
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_10.asp

How to connect your PC to a Digital TV with a Transcoder http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_4.asp

Guide to PowerStrip Custom Timings and Resolutions http://www.digitalconnection.com/Sup...ffnotes_17.asp

[WeAreNotAlone]

Making a clean Windows XP Install cd for your compaq v3000z

making a clean Windows XP Install cd for your compaq v3000z

---------------------------------------------------------------

Burn the restore DVDs - better use a DVD burner because using
CDs takes 15 blank CDs, you can use an external DVD burner,
make copies of them and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

Download all the drivers from HP, except the nvidia stuff,
go to laptopvideo2go.com for the video drivers, make shure
to get the "modded INF" file, and go to nvidia.com for the
chipset drivers - you also need the
"Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture Bus Driver for High Definition Audio"
its "sp32646.exe" its at HP - make shure to burn a copy, or save your
drivers that you just downloaded

find the "i386" folder on your hard disk, AND the "swsetup" folder,
burn both to DVD, You may want to make more than one copy of
each DVD/CD and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

Download "Belarc Advisor" at "www.belarc.com/free_download.html"
its freeware, and use it to find system info, like your CD KEY, you might
want to save the web page it makes, so you have a record of before and
after the reinstall - copy that page to another computer or print it out

The key you need to reinstall, is different than the one on the bottom
of your laptop, thats why you need to save that info

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

go to "http://www.nu2.nu/download.php?sFile=bcd111.zip" and download
"bcd111.zip"

go to "http://www.nero.com/nero6/eng/WNASPI32.DLL.html" and download
"WNASPI32.DLL"

go to "http://www.nu2.nu/download.php?sFile=wxp10.zip" and download
"wxp10.zip"

extract "bcd111.zip" - I extracted to "c:\bcd111"

extract "wxp10.zip" into the folder that was made by extracting "bcd111.zip"

the folders should be like this

\bcd111\bin\

and

\bcd111\cds\wxphome

and

\bcd111\cds\wxppro

put the "WNASPI32.DLL" into the "\bcd111\bin\" folder

If you have Windows XP Pro, put the 'i386' folder into "\bcd111\cds\wxppro"

If you have Windows XP Home, put the 'i386' folder into "\bcd111\cds\wxphome"

in the "\bcd111\cds\wxphome" and "\bcd111\cds\wxppro" folders, there is a folder
called "files" in that folder there are 3 files "w2ksect.bin" "win51" and "win51ic"
you need to copy "win51ic" and re-name that copy, to "win51ic.SP2" - Now there should
be 4 files "w2ksect.bin" "win51" "win51ic" and "win51ic.SP2"



-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Now the fun part.

Click in the start menu, click on run, type in "cmd" and hit enter
now find were the "\bcd111" folder is, mine was extracted to "c:\bcd111"
so I typed in "cd c:\bcd111"

put a blank CD into your burner

If you have Windows XP Pro, type "bcd wxppro"
If you have Windows XP Home, type "bcd wxphome"

and press enter

you now have a Windows XP install CD

make copies of it, and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

if you want the ISO file - dont insert the blank cd - and look at the text
in the command window for the ISO location - just copy it some ware else

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Installing windows and Quick Play


Boot with the Windows install cd

delete all partitions

now create a partition in the unpartitioned space - press C
You should see "Create partition of size (in MB):" and that
number is how much free space you have, take that number and
type it into a caculator, minus 1028mb, like this
"29317 - 1028 = 28289" yours will be different, that is what
size to make your partition

I tried a few times and had problems getting it just 1028mb,
- you can have a larger partition for quick play than 1028mb,
thats what I did, my quick play partition is 1038mb,

now just setup windows normal after that

Installing Quick Play is easy

you will need that DVD with the "swsetup" folder,
in the "swsetup" folder, is a folder called "HPQPDP",
run the setup in that folder, and it will install
quick play

Good Luck


------------------------------------------------------------------

I used "http://www.nu2.nu/" to find a lot of this info
and also "http://forum.notebookreview.com/" and
"www.google.com" for the rest

Any corrections, just post them here and I will edit my post Thanks

[WeAreNotAlone]

.

Are you outside your return window? Need to send the unit in for "repair"?

You would be well advised, to:

A: Make copies of Proof of Purchase, warranty , extended warranty documents, and if you can make a pdf of website showing details, warranty info.

B: Before sending unit in, take pictures of it, with a current newspaper in background showing date, major headline... AND write up a short document stating the condition of the unit, any damages or lack there-of and go down to your local BANK with the unit in hand, the pictures (numbered to match sections in the document stating the condition- Top, bottom, side, front, rear, Open, closed, etc) and show the unit and pic'ss to the bank's notary, and have he/she sign off on each picture, and notarize the document.

TIP: Wouldn't hurt to have the notary stamp/sign the back of EACH picture... so the picture becomes part of the document.
(Proof thereof that the pictures match the document describing the condition of the unit)

Why bother?
There have been quite a few reports of people sending in a unit that is "perfect" getting them back damaged.
With a signed, notarized document with pic's, numbered to show condition you are going to have less of a fight if your unit comes back damaged!!!

Most banks will do this for free.... especially if you were to show the notary posts in the dv8000 keyboard thread about how people are getting the run around!


****************************

[WeAreNotAlone]

Costco CTO link:

PRO's:

You can CTO a unit (Custom to Order) picking the parts /OS you want. Units are shipped DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA... which is a plus over getting a "pre-built" because you get the hardware that has the latest revisions, bug fixes... CTO units take about 3-4 days to get built and another few days to reach you.

CON's: takes about 7-10 to build + be delivered. Costco also has pre-builts in store, or via the web for pickup, shipment.

www.COSTCO.com and here is the CTO link: http://www.costco.com/CTO/HPLanding....=C&ec=&topnav=



Time frame expect an CTO Costco order to arrive,

I CTO'd a unit a few months ago, ETA was the 12th.... Placed the order the 3rd, was shipped the 7th on a Friday at 3:54pm Fed-Ex picking up AFTER the Fed-Ex cut-off... and it arrived the 10th East Coast U.S.A by 8:30am delivered to my home.

Repair /return options on units purchased thru COSTCO:

If you get a unit with problems you can send it in for 'repair", OR you can just return it and then re-order.... Another option is to order the replacement first, since there will be a delay of 7-10 days it takes to build and ship a CTO unit..... OR you could pick from in-store models to buy...

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[chronicfuture12]

The only problem I see with Costco is that they do not offer the student discount that HP does.

[WeAreNotAlone]

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You get a bad unit and any difference in price, unless you got like 50% off will be a moot point.

Most people that have priced a system taking into consideration tax, shipping, and the various extended warranty options thru COSTCO find that the price is very close... even considering a student discount. For those of us working people who aren't students Costco beats HP price on every machine I've CTO'd.

On your idea on buying thru HP direct.... unless they are running like a 1/2 off sale I'd go thru Costco since Costco's return window is 180 days... and HP's is 21. If the prices are anywhere close you'd be a fool to buy anywhere else IMO.
After 21 days if you buy thru HP, you're at their mercy.

Examples:

HP has no CD/DVD replacement till Feb. 7, 2007 (todays date 11-29-2006)

http://forum.notebookreview.com/show....php?p=1685217

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else?

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else?

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[MGS2392]

This is pretty much all I see you post, for every one of your posts...

[WeAreNotAlone]

This is pretty much all I see you post, for every one of your posts...

Thats why I was posting it here, so instead of having to type up all that crap I can just link to it. I'm tired of wasting time with some of these turkeys, going back and forth with them, finally getting out of them that on a $1,000 to $2,000 machine the price differance is $50-$75...because of a student discount, or whatever.

For anyone that's considering a "consumer" grade model, they'd be a fool to purchase from HP directly.... again if the pricing was close...

Consider also the time frame of year. Right now alot of people are looking to buy for Christmas and DON'T KNOW about the various issues, crappy service, or return polices of the differant vendors out there.

Say for example on that nx9420... If a place was selling them with a 180 day return window, other vendors only offering 21 or 30... and that model was having some problems with it, like people are having in the dv8000 keyboard thread..... Wouldn't you want to know which vendors to buy from and which to say away from?


How about you list the return polices of vendors you may know of, lets see how they compare...

Most all vendors are only going to give you only 21 to 30 days, after that you're at the mercy of whatever mfg.


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[MGS2392]

Well, it just seems like it's all you are now. I mean, come on. It's your sig... No offense, but it's kinda starting to feel advertising-ish.