*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

[tweakertje]

I'm stuck on finetuning my bios notation is 8680294286800111
addcc finds it with 100% match
after clicking ok the sting is not filled in
original BIOS ID byte String field is blank
whitelist detection is set to decompressed whitelist on patched bios

[User Retired 2]

Caddy does not slide into bay at all easily. With some considerable force I got it almost home, but not enough to connect. Then almost impossible to remove without pliers. Surely this is not right? No way could ever hot swap! HAs anyone else bought their caddy from yewelong on eBay.?

The same chassis with sata-to-pata chip does hotswap if modded as shown below. If the plastic isn't shaved then the caddy becomes jammed. Only way I could force it back out was by pushing it with a screwdriver from the backside, accessible via the 1.8" HDD bay. Once the plastic is shaved on the left side, it fits and can be removed without such herculean effort.

modded ebay caddy to allow hotswapping

I'm stuck on finetuning my bios notation is 8680294286800111
addcc finds it with 100% match
after clicking ok the sting is not filled in
original BIOS ID byte String field is blank
whitelist detection is set to decompressed whitelist on patched bios

Same here. semi has added that feature yet it seems to need to work off the uncompressed whitelist.

[tweakertje]

Okay so you dont have it working either copy paste dos'nt work for me I get an error message when I try to change in file

Find
The specified search string was not found

[tweakertje]

is there someone who has already done it on a 2510p WOKING ????

[User Retired 2]

Comparison: ebay versus newmodeus 9.5mm sata-to-pata and pata caddy
Linked from INFO: Using a optical bay caddy to install a 2.5" SATA or PATA SSD/HDD

REF also Uli's comparison for a second opinion.

I've acquired both the ebay and newmodeus caddies to compare performance with a 500GB HDD, appearance, build quality and overall function below. Included too are some other 2510P owner's benchmark results with both a sata SSD and a PATA HDD. The latter useful to those trying to decide whether the more power efficient pata caddy is for them. Both ebay and newmodeus offer pata equivalent caddies with identical chassis appearance to those shown below.

Update: ebay vendor notebookelite has revised caddy with stronger metal chassis and faceplate to one pictured and commented on below. Click linked review to see photos.

Top=newmodeus Bottom=ebay
.

newmodeus caddy (linked review) sata-to-pata bridge chip: Sunplus SATALink Pros - great faceplate: contoured, tapered and textured - stronger chassis build quality - screws ssd/hdd securely to chassis bottom - does the job out of the box without mods - delivery takes days Pros [only for sata-to-pata] - has slave jumper, works with a master 1.8" ssd/hdd - 0.2W lower ACTIVE power consumption Cons - almost twice the price of ebay caddy Cons [only for sata-to-pata] - SSDs with win7 require trim disabled, explained here - 30s bios hang with bios F.0E, see solution - more details on these cons are here

ebay_caddy (linked review+mods) sata-to-pata bridge chip: Marvell 88SA8040 Pros - a third of the price of the newmodeus caddy - OEM looking faceplate, though not tapered&contoured - 0.7W lower IDLE power consumption since the bridge chip implements SATA slumber mode. Cons - underside gap (pro: useful latch point for hotswap) - pins, rather than screws, hdd down via mounting tabs - faceplate flex unsuitable for hotswap [mod fixes this] - delivery takes weeks Cons [only for sata-to-pata] - can't get it to function as slave with a 1.8" master. Though can do the slave_mod & which works with the topda branded ebay caddy. - hdd activity LED only on faceplate [mod fixes this]

Performance

The UDMA5/ATA100 interface will cap reads to 100MB/s and writes to 88.9MB/s, which in real life appear to be around 88/67 as seen by the OCZ Vertex benchmarks. In order, from fastest to slowest:

SSDs

Drive	Caddy	Bench: CrystalDisk|hdtune|PerformanceTest|atto
Renice X3 (SF1222) 64GB 1.8" sata SDD + newmodeus 1.8" to 2.5" adapter	Native AHCI sata-II (Inspiron 1440)
	ebay 9.5mm sata-to-pata
	newmodeus 9.5mm sata-to-pata^12
OCZ Vertex (Indilinx) 60GB sata SSD from here	ebay_ 9.5mm sata-to-pata

^1 requires TRIM disabled in Win7 with "fsutil behavior set disabledeletenotify 1" otherwise doesn't work
^2 causes 30s boot hang requiring F.0A bios as a workaround or run it as slave

HDDs

Drive	Caddy	Bench: CrystalDisk|hdtune|PerformanceTest|atto
WD3200BEKT (Scorpio Black) 320GB sata HDD from here (ICH8M Dell Vostro 1400)	Native AHCI sata-II
	ebay_ 12.7mm sata-to-pata
Fujitsu MJA2500BH 500GB sata HDD	ebay_ 9.5mm sata-to-pata
	newmodeus 9.5mm sata-to-pata^2
Samsung HM160HC 160GB pata HDD from here	ebay_ 9.5mm pata
Toshiba MK8009GAH 80GB 1.8" ZIF HDD	N/A

^2 causes 30s boot hang requiring F.0A bios as a workaround or run it as slave

The Marvell-based ebay caddy shows atto/performancetest results with slightly faster maximum sequential read speed and otherwise is on par or performs slightly better overall than the newmodeus caddy.

Lack of AHCI's Native Command Queueing (NCQ) on the 2510P's PATA interface means the same SATA HDD has lower random read/write performance in a sata-to-pata caddy as those read/writes are not grouped to minimise seeks as they are on AHCI sata. Eg: Changing the Vostros native SATA AHCI to legacy IDE (SATA) mode saw PerformanceTest's result drop from 623 to 393.

From the newmodeus or ebay caddy, which would I recommend?

newmodeus' sata-to-pata or pata caddy has the better build chassis quality and contoured faceplate so it's virtually a clone replacement of the optical drive. Recommended hassle-free solution if your budget allows for it. Note: Win7 + sata SSD trim issue con above.

The ebay caddy also looks OEM. It just doesn't taper on the bottom right corner nor is it contoured. It's build quality is certainly satisfactory for the task when the fit & faceplate modifications is applied. It is the budget recommended choice for all instances except when running the 2.5" sata SSD/HDD as slave which it cannot accomodate.

So overall value-for-money recommendation is:

• standalone 2.5" sata or pata SSD/HDD: ebay caddy
• 1.8" SSD^1/HDD^2 (slave) + 2.5" sata or pata SSD/HDD (master): ebay caddy
• 1.8" SSD (master) + 2.5" pata HDD (slave): ebay caddy
• 1.8" SSD (master) + 2.5" sata HDD (slave): newmodeus caddy as has slave jumper

^1 Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD can run as master (default) or slave as set by resistor at position R49. Empty=Master, 10kΩ=Slave. Pls refer to Runcore Tech Support.
^2 Supplied Toshiba MK8009GAH ZIF HDD can be made slave by bridging pin1+pin2 as shown here.

If the ebay sata-to-pata caddy could be made to work as slave then it would be the overall bargain hunter's choice. The capability does exist.

[tudorlaptop]

I just bought a case to take the DVD drive that I removed from my 2510p. I bought it from an eBay Hong Kong seller. It does not take the optical drive. With the drive tray open, I can push in the metal tray until it is home, but then cannot close the drive's door. If I push it in with the drive door shut it does not go all the way in. Yes I did remove the little widget that takes the screw when the drive was in the laptop
http://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?a...o_id=621190417

Tudorlaptop

[losdrivare]

I just bought a case to take the DVD drive that I removed from my 2510p. I bought it from an eBay Hong Kong seller. It does not take the optical drive. With the drive tray open, I can push in the metal tray until it is home, but then cannot close the drive's door. If I push it in with the drive door shut it does not go all the way in. Yes I did remove the little widget that takes the screw when the drive was in the laptop
http://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?a...o_id=621190417

Tudorlaptop

Yeah, I know. This external case is hardly plug and play... I bought one too and it required quite a "shave" before everything fit properly. I needed to shave off quite a lot around the opening, and there is a piece of plastic inside on the right side that I took away completely. Also, I needed to take it apart to make the connectors mate.

Basically, just shave off everything that's in the way and you'll be fine. I have the exact same case and it worked for me.

So far, I have installed the Samsung HM160HC with the PATA caddy, removed the 1.8" Toshiba MK6008GAH, used the external USB case for the DVDR-drive, installed the modded video driver and I have a working overclock at 1.5GHz - all thanks to this guide. I have also upgraded to 2GB of 800MHz RAM. I am very happy with this system running Tiny7. My only wish is that it would be lighter, current weight is 1540 grams.

If anyone else having weight considerations, I have weighed some of the components used and I could list them.

Windows 7 Experience Index for my system:
@1.2 GHz / @1.5 GHz / @1.6 GHz (experimental, not stability tested, higher overclock result in bluescreen)
Processor: 3.7 / 4.2 / 4.4
Memory: 4.2 / 4.5 / 4.6
Graphics: 2.8 / 3.2 / 3.2
Gaming: 3.0 / 3.1 / 3.1
Hard drive: 5.5 / 5.5 / 5.5

[User Retired 2]

Basically, just shave off everything that's in the way and you'll be fine. I have the exact same case and it worked for me.

Your WIN7 WEI @1.5Ghz matching mine with the modded X3100 driver. 5.5 a great HM160HC HDD result.

Yourself and tudorlaptop are the first to provide any feedback on the DVD-USB enclosure . So is there any chance you could post a DIY Guide on the shavings/mods necessary to make the 2510P DVD fit and work, pictures to show whats required as well as the final result? Would be a great inclusion to link off the first post for other 2510P users to consider replicating?

12/12/2009: thread has had > 70,000 views. Could HP have sold so many 2510Ps?
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losdrivare

EDIT1: Even though you have PC2-6400 RAM you'll need to write CAS=5 to your 266Mhz RAM table used on bootup with ThaiPhoon Burner like shown here. The >1.5Ghz OC means you need 333Mhz RAM timings (CAS=5). So RAM is likely your current OC wall, at least that's what I found. Also consider using RMCLOCK and set *ALL* the divider's voltages to maximum while testing stability. The upper limit of OC is system specific. I tested one 2510P which could go up to 1.75Ghz with CAS=5, running a stable 1.65-1.7Ghz overclock with CAS=5.

EDIT2: To alter fan threshold switch on points would require adapting 8710w - fan works all the time post. If experimenting and have some success, please post an update. Others may wish to use the resultant modified ACPI table.

EDIT3: Pics are great. My bad was using an external LCD which wasn't showing the blacks correctly. You're now linked off the first post twice. Great effort in taking the time to do this.

[losdrivare]

Guide: Converting the internal 9.5mm pata optical drive to external USB:
using an ebay US$17-delivered DVD enclosure

First, I made this guide after my drive was modded and done, so unfortunately I don't have any "before" pics. But if you need this guide you probably have a brand new unmodded case to compare with.

There are two connectors on the DVD enclosure, one mini-USB and one external power. However, the USB is sufficient to power the enclosure on its own, at least with the 2510p.



Start with removing any mounts from the optical drive. If you previously used a 2.5" HDD caddy, you probably used the mounts for the caddy already. The optical drive should be clean like above.



Then take apart the plastic case. Shave away plastic from the marked areas until the optical drive fits all the way in. I simply used a pocket knife for this. Cut away the plastic piece in the marked area. I had to to put the drive together and test a few times before I had shaved away enough material. Trial and error.



You need to connect the circuit board to the drive before putting everything together.



Then put the drive with the circuit board attached into place in the case. Make sure the holes of the circuit board goes the their designated knobs in the case, as marked in red.





When putting the case together, make sure the microUSB-connector slides into the hole of the case and then clip the case shut. Result should be something like this. The drive door should be flush with the opening of the case and the drive should be able to eject on its own. Note that the plastic case has a fair amount of flex to it and the drive won't be able to eject if there is any pressure to the case, eg if you're holding it instead of having it on a table.

nando4: Thanks for the help with embedding images, this is exactly how I wanted it.
EDIT: My camera unfortunately has trouble with focus in close-ups without flash... This is as good as it's going to get. :P Updated my previous post with WEI @1.6 GHz. Happy to contribute as I've found this thread extremely useful. Will make a post with some minor additional ideas on the 2.5" PATA mod later when I have more time.
EDIT2: Actually, my RAM is PC2-6400 so I think the wall is either voltage or heat. I have a Zalman ZM-NC1000 Notebook Cooler so I might be testing this out later, just did a quick test now for fun. I don't really think I'd use any higher settings than 1.5 GHz anyway, but it would be cool to know how far my U7600 can go. RMclock is on my list for testing, mainly for undervolting. Hoping this will lower the temps and fan noise some. You know of any fan control tool for the 2510p?
EDIT3: Ok, might be checking out my RAM timings then. Thanks for the info.

[applesauce-xt]

Nando4 -

Earlier on this page you detailed your solution to the low write speed for your runcore ssd. You were getting around 30 mb/s. I have a latitude xt and I believe the chipset in the laptop is different. I believe my computer is also running at too slow of a speed on the ide channel. Have you talked to anyone with a dell xt, do you have any idea if the same type of fix might work, and if so would there need to be any changes to it?

I know your on a different subject at the moment but it didnt show a way to directly message you about this.

This page has other people explaining the issue I am seeing
http://www.gottabemobile.com/forum/f...nterface-speed

"The computer in the article linked to seems to use an ICH8 Southbridge. The Dell uses an ATI solution, the SB600, I believe. I don't think the same fix would work on both, but I could be wrong. "

It looks like the chipset might be making the baredit not look exactly like what you saw.