ASUS U24E Review and Owners Lounge

[davidricardo86]

Thanks for the details!

By the way, for everyone, you can NOT install Windows on ANY disk in IDE or AHCI, and then switch your mode (from IDE to AHCI or AHCI to IDE) after you've installed Windows. As David is reporting, you will suffer from an attack of BSODs. Windows is very sensitive about what mode the HDD/SSD was in when it was installed, and for whatever reason, that's what causes the boot failure. You CAN, however, boot into Windows normally, change the drive type in the Registry to IDE or AHCI, and then reboot the machine, change the mode in BIOS, and then boot normally.

If anyone is interested, I'll dig up the article on exactly how to switch the setting in the registry successfully. That's how I had to do it to switch from IDE to AHCI. For me, SATAII SSDs wont install in AHCI, but will in IDE. Unfortunately, as shown by the previous benchmarks, IDE mode really hurts SSD performance.

Great info!!! I didn't know this & its exactly what's going on.

I was going to run the Windows 7 repair disc in hopes of fixing the boot/startup problem. Can you please post that article? That's worth a try before I go ahead & reinstall the OS & all my apps.

[jamesman32]

Great info!!! I didn't know this & its exactly what's going on.

I was going to run the Windows 7 repair disc in hopes of fixing the boot/startup problem. Can you please post that article? That's worth a try before I go ahead & reinstall the OS & all my apps.

I'll do you one better. Here's a program that makes the registry changes for you!

Error message when you start a Windows 7 or Windows Vista-based computer after you change the SATA mode of the boot drive: "STOP 0x0000007B INACCESSABLE_BOOT_DEVICE"

Just run the program, reboot, select the desired SATA mode, and continue boot.

[davidricardo86]

I'll do you one better. Here's a program that makes the registry changes for you!

Error message when you start a Windows 7 or Windows Vista-based computer after you change the SATA mode of the boot drive: "STOP 0x0000007B INACCESSABLE_BOOT_DEVICE"

Just run the program, reboot, select the desired SATA mode, and continue boot.

This FIXED my slow boot!!! I double checked the registry to make sure it applied the changes and it did. My SSD boots like normal, FAST AGAIN! Saves me from having to reinstall the OS/apps all over again. Thanks jamesman32, that was easy!!! This info should be stickied for the rest of the U24E group or entire forum. I saved a copy and downloaded this small app for safe keeping just in case.

Thanks again.

EDIT: The problem is back... Registry is still edited according to the the Microsoft Hotfix but it is now booting slow again. I am starting my OS/apps reinstall right now.

EDIT: So I just found out something that seems to be contributing to the cause of my slow boot. As dumb as this seems, I noticed that when I had my SD to MicroSD card adapter inserted into the card reader, it was in fact causing my boot times to increase. I noticed my adapter was insterted into my computer AFTER I had reinstalled Windows and was STILL having a slow boot. Immediately after I removed the adapter, boot time went back to being "normal." Viola! Apparently the adapter, empty and without a MicroSD card being inserted, was in fact slowing down my boot. Weird and not really obvious but I have noticed that this computer and others cannot boot up or boot slower when ever USB or other devices are insterted. USB2.0 devices plugged into the USB2.0 port do not have this problem since it is native to the mobo.

This kind of adapter:

[jamesman32]

David, good to see that worked!

Also, are any other U24E users out there experiencing dead pixels? I found 1 in the bottom left corner of my screen. I've tried a number of fixer programs, but none have worked. It's completely dead. Of course, this would happen 5 days after I void my warrantee to install a new CPU.

I talked to ASUS support. They set up an RMA for me, even though I told them I voided the warrantee. They said that if their technicians find that the screen issue had nothing to do with the CPU upgrade (which of course it does not) they will honor the warrantee I voided and replace the screen for free. Thumbs up to Asus!

[davidricardo86]

David, good to see that worked!

Also, are any other U24E users out there experiencing dead pixels? I found 1 in the bottom left corner of my screen. I've tried a number of fixer programs, but none have worked. It's completely dead. Of course, this would happen 5 days after I void my warrantee to install a new CPU.

I talked to ASUS support. They set up an RMA for me, even though I told them I voided the warrantee. They said that if their technicians find that the screen issue had nothing to do with the CPU upgrade (which of course it does not) they will honor the warrantee I voided and replace the screen for free. Thumbs up to Asus!

So far, fingers crossed, I haven't noticed any dead or white pixels on my display. That is pretty amazing that Asus went ahead and honored the warranty even after the fact that you told them you replaced the CPU. Way to go Asus! I'm too scared to replace my CPU as I'd rather not void the warranty. I'm willing to wait till after the warranty is over, then maybe I'd consider an upgrade. But... by that time Ivy Bridge should be out for a half a year almost and I could always sell the u24e and upgrade to IB.

Can you show me what the dead pixel looks like?

[davidricardo86]

Okay so in the process of trying to figure out why I was having a really slow boot on my SSD, I tried reinstalling my OS, and even went as far as setting the BIOS to default settings just to make sure I would be in AHCI mode and my OS/SSD would be installed correctly. I was really close to flashing the BIOS and the SSD firmware with the most current versions but didn't have to. So I took apart my U24E in order to get to the CMOS battery and reset the BIOS that way too. I really wanted to be sure that by switching to IDE SATA mode, as a test for another member , I hadn't messed up my SSD/ entire computer.

Another reason I disassembled this little beast was because a few of you guys were interested in replacing your CPUs but didn't want to/were too lazy to do the work! So you decided to take a shortcut and get the new CPU in there anyway you saw fit. Even though you guys managed to squeeze the new CPUs in, I still think you should have gone all the way down to the motherboard. And here's why:

1. It's really NOT THAT DIFFICULT! Compared to my old HP DV5, it was fairly easy actually. What I really like about this computer's internal design was that it is very "modular." Most components are seperated form the mainboard on another board as a module of its own. This makes it very easy to service!

2. By bending or cuting the plastic case, you guys caused cosmetic damage I'd rather not see on my new computer

3. Bending, forcing and lifting the copper heat pipe that pulls the CPU heat to the heatsink isn't the smartest move because it puts pressure on the Northbridge/Southbridge chip (correct me if Im wrong because I think I am) which also dissipates heat onto the copper pipe. This causes the little thermal pad contacting that chip to the copper plate to become smashed/distorted somewhat and I think it can have an effect on cooling later on. Maybe it won't and Im wrong, but getting down to the mobo really isnt that difficult honestly, I'll show you. This is not a full step by step guide but its better than nothing!

DISCLAIMER WARNING: I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU MESS UP OR BREAK YOUR COMPUTER. THIS IS SOLELY FOR EDUCATIONAL PUROSES AND MY INTEREST IN MY PERSONAL COMPUTER. PROCEED WITH CAUTION!

Tools:

• Screwdriver (i don't know the size but make sure its snug, you DO NOT want to strip the bolt heads!)
• Soft/Hard slim piece of plastic (an old credit card should work fine, but I used an old plastic memory card case; see picture)
• 1-2 hours of free time
• And maybe some sandwich baggies to keep your bolts organized

Here's my plastic tool used to seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. That's right I'm like Macgyver, I use whatever's around & improvise!


... Or you can source out a handy kit like this one!



Let's begin.

1. Remove the battery, then the bottom case door, the HDD/SSD, the WiFi/Bluetooth card, and the RAM.

2. I'm not going to show you how to remove all the case bolts, you can do that yourself. Doube/triple check that ALL bolts have been removed because this is a common mistake.

3. Once all the bolts have been removed, you can then begin prying/wiggling with your plastic tool on either side of the laptop in a slow and gentle movement pushing towards unhooking the plastic tabs that hold the case together. You will notice that when all the bolts are off, the top & bottom of the case start to seperate on their own. All you're doing is popping out those tabs that are hooked together. Once you start popping the case apart, it just keeps coming apart easily. Do not be afraid to use some force, but also DO NOT tear it apart like the Hulk. Its just plastic and it can break. If you're careful and successful, you'll have unhooked/seperated the top and bottom half of the computer case.

Look at the bottom of this picture. You see the plastic tabs? They're just like hooks. Sorry but that's what I call them.


4. Here's my keyboard half already off. But before it can come off, you MUST CAREFULLY DISCONNECT the touchpad and keyboard ribbon cables. BE CAREFUL as these ribbon cables do not handle too much flexing and bending. One kink, and you're done!


Thanks to ALLurGroceries for this picture! This is what the ribbon cables will look like when they're still connected. DO NOT lift the keyboard half all the way up or too much. Use caution as always. I recommend disconnecting the touchpad cable first, then the keyboard cable. You will reinstall these ribbon cables in reverse order.


After disconnecting the ribbon cables, move your keyboard half aside. Notice the keyboard is fused to the top case.


Here's what your computer should look like next. As you can tell, many of the parts and some ports are on seperate modules or boards.


5. AC power connector, power configuration button and board. Notice the tiny ribbon cable that connects this board to the mainboard. Disconnect this ribbon cable. Unbolt this board from the case and disconnect the power wire connector underneath this board going to the main board. You will notice that these wires are thicker gauge wire as they supply the electricity to the computer.


Make sure to disconnect BOTH ends of this ribbon cable as it gets in the way later! Be EXTRA CAREFUL with this ribbon cable, its very small and fragile! If you want, but it's not necessary, you can disconnect the fan. Just REMEMBER to plug it back in when assembling the computer!


6. I looked at these pictures and it looks like you DO NOT have to remove the speakers in order to get the motherboard out. Otherwise, you can disconnect and remove the left speaker. These speakers are small and well designed for such a little space. Notice the ivory-colored connector in the middle there, I have no idea what its for.


This ivory-colored connector. Notice the metal bolt hole. My guess is that this is probably for a finger-print scanner module that wasn't offered due to cost. Its location makes sense to me. Who know's maybe it will be offered later?


Disconnect and remove the right speaker too. Notice this other ivory-colored connector, its not being used by anything, odd!


7. Remove the 2 bolts holding the ethernet/power button board. Carefully disconnect the cable, the wires are some of the tiniest wires I have ever seen.


Take it slow!


NOTE: I did not remove the display panel as there was no reason for me to do that. But if you need to, its only four bolts and the WiFi antenna/display cables holding it down.

The modules removed.


8. Finally, let's remove the motherboard from the case. First, disconnect the display panel connector! Its stubborn but comes off with a little effort. Next, there are 3 bolts holding the mobo down. 2 bolts are by the fan, and 1 is by the memory card reader. These are easy to find. Remove those 3 bolts and now you can remove the motherboard out. Since its somewhat tight when removing the mobo, the easiest way to get it out is to start at the end with the USB 3.0 ports. With little effort you can move the case outwards a tiny bit and ease the mobo up and out. Its not difficult. The mobo WILL NOT come out from the HDMI/VGA port side because of the design, trust me!


And here's the motherboard out of its case in all its glory! There's the CMOS battery I was looking for. Now we have easy access to the CPU, heatsink, and everything else that's on this board. I didn't remove my CPU/heatsink for obvious reasons, removing that little yellow sticker apparently voids your warranty. It is a very small and compact mobo. Also notice the audio daughter board that bolts to the mainboard at the top right. Pretty cool!


The two boards meet here.


You can unbolt and seperate these if you'd like.


The two boards.


EDIT: The CMOS battery and "Clockgen is on the HM65 chipset die (other thing connected to heatpipe), it's a locked multi sandy bridge cpu so no overclocking possible past turboboost." The HD3000 GPU, and memory controller are on the i7-2620m die.


Another mysterious unused connector.


And another one! Maybe these could be for a backlit keyboard? I don't know.


Heatsink and copper pipe part number. All copper desgin on the plate that transfers heat from the chip to the pipe, very good!


From a different angle.


Here's the fan part number. Check out that dust! I've had this for almost a month now and its already getting dusty... make sure to clean it before putting it back together. Also notice that the fan is fused to the plastic kind of like the keyboard is fused to the top half of the case. What was Asus smoking?!


Another angle.


EDIT: "ITE IT8572E is the Embedded controller"


Another shot


Looks like the iTE chip is a PLL to me.


Last one.


EDIT: Other chips of interest. "The realtek chip is rts5139 card reader, ASmedia is usb3"


CPU. Notice the all copper design on the heat pipe. Looks robust and beefy for just the CPU, and maybe enough for quad core CPUs. We'll have to see how the other quad core CPU guys are doing months down the road. Also notice the bolt numbering and pattern. I think its there for the same reason cars have a bolt pattern on lug nuts and engine heads/blocks. It must be for applying equal torque to the CPU thermal material be it a pad or compound.


Underneath the CPU. Here you can also see where the touchpad and keyboard connectors are (covered by yellow tape). At the bottom left corner you see the display panel connector! Remember this needs to be disconnected before removing the mobo from the case.


CPU lock screw and socket type


RAM module connectors and part numbers


Keyboard half part numbers


Lower half case part numbers


Naked case


Motherboard with additional components



Conclusion:

That's all I got for now. I hope you guys enjoyed it as much as I did to discover what was hidden inside this little beast Asus calls the U24E. I thought it was easy to disassemble and its internal design is well thought out. I especially like its modular components, strong chassis, and surprisingly small footprint.

I hope this little guide will convince you guys that its not too hard to disassmble the U24E in order to change the CPU, heatsink, fan or to remove the CMOS battery. So don't be so scared and STOP cutting and bending the case plastics just because you're lazy. Whatever the case may be, its pretty easy if you're careful and take your time. With practice it'll become much easier. I won't show you how to assemble it, that is a test for you!

If you get stuck, ask for help!

[keeepc]

@ davidricardo86

Thank to you, great job!!!

[ALLurGroceries]

@ davidricardo86

Wicked sick pictures! I added a link to your post from the third post of the thread.

The realtek chip is rts5139 card reader
ASmedia is usb3
ITE IT8572E is the Embedded controller
Clockgen is on the HM65 chipset die (other thing connected to heatpipe), it's a locked multi sandy bridge cpu so no overclocking possible past turboboost.
HD3000 GPU is on the CPU die

Here's my badly focused pic of prying open the case.

[GlabrousPC]

@davidricardo86 - beautiful tear-down, thanks very much.

Whilst writing can anyone tell me why there is a 25Gb empty primary partition on my U24E's HDD? I'm planning on upgrading to a 750Gb Seagate Momentus XT anyhow but don't want to lose 25Gb from that as well!

Thanks for your help. Cheers, GPC.

[zentrad]

@davidricardo86 - beautiful tear-down, thanks very much.

Whilst writing can anyone tell me why there is a 25Gb empty primary partition on my U24E's HDD? I'm planning on upgrading to a 750Gb Seagate Momentus XT anyhow but don't want to lose 25Gb from that as well!

Thanks for your help. Cheers, GPC.

Are your unit shipped with os?
If yes, that 25gig are your os restoration partition
If not, just deleted it As far as I know windows7 only make 100mb active partition for booting